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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 10/19/2000 Paul d.
wrote in from
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I just brought home enough solid wood strips to make about 20 vertlam decks. The stuff I get and use for my decks ends up as fire wood if I don't take it. It's exellent for brds (and plenty of other things)they just can't store all that wood.Speaking of vertlam and concave. I came across a piece (+/-12") vertlam with glass on one side.It had about 1/4" of concave (WARP). Just from the humidity in my basement. This winter I'll try wetting a blank that has glass on one side and waterproof glue to see what happens. If it works I'll let it dryout and glass both sides.Has anybody else seen something like this with solid woods.
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On 10/19/2000 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
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Big Steve,thanx for that E-address! I prefer some flex in my boards,so that thin laminate is really going to be workable for dialing in the flex where I want it. As to thickness,it depends on the lenth of the board,and whether you want to bend it for nose/tails or concave,or camber.Right now,I'm looking for concave and camber bendable wood,so the usual 11 ply Birch is a bit too thick for me to work with.Since it's getting close to winter up here in New England,I'm resigned to getting the materials together(over the winter)to make boards with in the spring.I've got to make a press this winter so that I can make the boards in the shapes I want.It'll be awhile...
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On 10/18/2000
Big Steve
wrote in from
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Here's the web site for Andersen's International Trading in Anahiem California:
www.aitwood.com They'll ship your order out right away. I've been buying material from them since 1992 for my boomerangs. They have alwasy treated me right.
So let me ask this: Which you prefer a stiff board or one with flex? What is the most common thickness material used?
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On 10/18/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
I think original Dogtown 10 ply decks were two pieces of 1/4 inch 5 ply glued together,thats probabely easier than working with individual plys,where each ply might have its own waviness, that needs alot of pressure to make a uniform shape.
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On 10/18/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
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Nick,
Do a search on presses and you will find a varity of designs that can be utilized to camber a homemade deck. I have a very inexpensive set up that I use for the bathtub-soaked ply decks (off of the NCDSA links page)
Camber is fairly difficult to pull off and have it last a long time with any of the plywoods. After awhile the wood starts to give way (at least on the decks that this chunk-butt rides!) So I would suggest that you lay up your own laminations if you want the deck to last... HR
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On 10/18/2000 Nick C
wrote in from
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Theres many ways to get camber. The easiest(and crudest) method is to soak your ply in the bath over night, then clamp it with a block under the middle for a couple of days until it is fully dry. Probably best to use this method to suss out the amount of camber you want, then when you have it right, you could make two identical boards and use them to laminate your own plys between. Fibreglass works well with cambered boards too.
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On 10/17/2000
Nick
wrote in from
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alright. i only use my own boards, cuz its cheaper and i can get exactly what i want from them. but i want something with a little bit of arch (i think its called camber). and i was wondering how the hell u get a board to do that without using any expensive presses or anything.
Nick
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On 10/17/2000 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
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Big Steve,please post a phone #,or E-mail address for the wood supplier you mentioned!I've got many,many uses for that birch ply you mentioned..
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On 10/17/2000
Big Steve
wrote in from
(207.105.nnn.nnn)
For killer grades of plywood check out www.aitwood.com
Andersen's International Trading in Anahiem California specializes in plywood of all types.
Erik Andersen know's what he's talking about and supplies some Long Board makers.
I use his wood for boomerangs and several long boards I've made. If you want extreme laminations
how does 5 mm thick, 10 ply all finnish birch sound to you? No knots, no voids and no filler wood in the middle.
Steve
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On 10/17/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(208.192.nnn.nnn)
Man my glassed homemade is kind of flexy,its .496 thick with the glass,really light(whatever thats worth),33.125 between the inner truck bolts,i'll see how it works on hills,i set it up with my loose and grippy set up,74a paws, randals (of course)red indy bushings. It's kind of nice around town,we'll see.By the way there's this "birch" ply at Home Depot that's less expensive than the stuff i get at True Value 17 vs 25 for 24x48 three quarter inch 7 ply vs 14 ply, not even close the multi ply is way stronger, i think the Home Depot stuff has weak filler ply on the inside, it loofs darker too.
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On 10/16/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
Here's an idea on simple single contour molds,go for what you know,build them like a ramp!transitions,beams and plys. Use 1/8 inch birch ply,cut a transition for the way you want your board to bend,rocker,kick,drop nose? Bolt the beams in tight,right next to each other,now ply reply rereply until you get the thickness of the board you're gonna make(5/8 most likely).Now the tricky part, attach beams to a sheet of 1/8inch ply then flip it and reply your ramp/mold one more time,i'm visualizing a double kick mold with the kicks going down.Now,the sides of your second half of this ramp er mold gets bolted to the beams that are already in place,the necessary transition has been established, you just have to make sure the beams stay where you have them when you unbolt the top plate of your mold,and then remove all the replys,thats where the material that you're pressing the boards out of ,will go.Maybe there should be guide posts to keep the plates lined up,the stronger you make the mold the better ,hell your initial clamping plys (the ones that stay attached)could be aluminum the beams maybe oak,it depends on the budget.Concavity, you're on your own.By the way is there a rule against anti-kick aerodynamic drop noses for racing?
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On 10/16/2000
Big Steve
wrote in from
(207.105.nnn.nnn)
This is a follow up to Chris Chaput's comment about routering
decks. I've used the same setup for 9 years in my boomerang
construction. Since I'm dealing with 5mm thick 10 ply finnish
birch I don't need the 3.5 Hp model router. As for rough cutting or
just plowing into the deck material and letting the router
do all the work it's much better to rough cut to about 1/4" of
deck outline. Your equipment will last longer, bits will stay
sharper and it's easier to work with. With the proper bit selection
you can get a full rounded cut (which is really a nice touch). A bull nose
bit is the way for that rounded over profile.
If you have any questions Chris just drop me an e-mail. We're
using the same techinque, only a different product.
Adios,
Big Steve
abosteve@vcnet.com
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On 10/16/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
The glassing came out real nice,so psyched i did the other side of the board this morning,same 100:27 ratio(a)the extra epoxy came in handy ,i went a little wetter on the glass and still did a thin recoat on the first glass and the edges. Chris,You could make two copies of the template,and use some spacers,so you have templates on both sides,there are router bits with bearings on top of the cutter,these are usually larger diameter cutters,you may have to fine tune the cutter speed(Chris did you get that option on your router?) but it will trim nicer and remove more material easier. On trimming,the less you need to cut with the router the less dust,noise,cutter wear,ect all good things,better finnish too.rounding over can be done with the router as well.leaving only fine sanding for the final touch.I like a bevel on the bottom,showing ply rings,classic dogtown wes' bigfoot style. (a)there are different hardeners for the resin i got,Aeropoxy,i may have used 23 grams by accident,although i probabely just posted incorrect numbers,if the first glass comes out a little softer,that will be the top,although its under a thin coat of fully hardened resin,so it may be hard to tell,i may have created rebound dampening accidently:)footnoted posts?! he,he:)
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On 10/16/2000
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
Nick, This method is also used on the kicked and concaved boards. The template is double thick and consists of two kicked and concaved plywood boards stacked glued and sanded to shaped with big handles attached.
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On 10/15/2000 Nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
Glen, can this method be used on curved, camber & kick boards, or is it too difficult to hold the template down around the edges?
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On 10/15/2000 Glen
wrote in from
(216.102.nnn.nnn)
Chris,
I usually rough trim with a bandsaw or jigsaw to 1/8". Try not to have more than 1/2 of the diameter of your router bit.
I use a 3/8" or 1/2" flush cut bit (use Bosch bits they last longer than any other carbide bits I've found ).
I draw the shapes and print them from my computer, and make templates out of particle board. You can really shape it well with a sander. Layout your holes on your computer so that you end up with real nice straight, centered holes with no measuring mess. After the template is made I drill the holes in my deck material, bolt the template to it, rough out the shape on the bandsaw and run the router around it. Sand, finish, grip and ride. You can kick out a ton of flat ply decks like this in a day.
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On 10/15/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
V-lame,,, he he he he ho ho ho ho, duh! lam,for lamination:)
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On 10/15/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(216.107.nnn.nnn)
I did first fiberglassing,the last board was done at my friend tim's house ,he is vacuum bag equiped with a heated curing box,i'm a mechanical (hydrolic) presser,when none stick layer goes on heat it a bit and work the air out towards the sides,it will feel like you have a sheet of poly when its right,not like a thin layer tarped on wet glue.100:23 was the ratio for the glue (by weight)it seemed right for one sheet of 5.5 oz S glass,a little left over.I did a layer on a 9ply 1/2 inch birch deck i made a while ago,i'm saving the v-lam for when things arn't so experimental,it would take quite a bit of set up to do glassing on any sort of production level,i'm quite impressed now with glassed boards(s9 fiberflex ect ect.)My carbon stingered bilayered V-lame is gonna be an amazing board,just got get that epoxyglassing right.
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On 10/15/2000
Ryan M
wrote in from
(165.236.nnn.nnn)
didn't dogtown used to have some kind of stick on concave strips, like 1989, 1990 ish? I remember seeing them in some ad in Thrasher and never actually saw any stores carrying them, they looked kind of flexy, urethane/rubber. I'll bet somebody's sitting on some pile of these, they could sure come in handy when adding the wood strips to a commercial, finished board would look bad
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On 10/15/2000
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
Hey DIY's, I just made a router table for cutting out decks. It features a 3.25 HP Porter Cable router and some carbide tipped template cutting straight bits (with the bearing on top). I'm going to make some boards today and have to figure out whether or not to cut the deck to about 1/4" of the template and have the router/template do the rest, or just have the router/template cut to the finished size from 10" x 60" square predrilled stock. I'll put a little web page up as soon as "production" has begun.
Signed,
The Little Shop That Could
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On 10/13/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
If the below doesn't show everything listed... use
/index.htm instead of /design.htm
HR
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On 10/13/2000 Nick
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
Here,s an interesting link to a homemade snowboard site which has some info on presses, composites, vac bagging etc, which could be applied to skateboards.
http://members.tripod.co.uk/grafsnow/design.htm
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On 10/13/2000
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
The Landyatchz guys are bending theirs about that much. I rather suspect that if you try it and it works, there's no nedd to use thinner plys. Personally the need for a dropped deck is largely unnecessary if you drop the trucks through. Psychologically though, people can't seem to understand or trust the CG lowered this way. It's as if they can only see how low a board is to the ground if they see it hanging from on top of the baseplates. The only benefit I can see with this method of construction is the ability to mount trucks that aren't easily dropped through. Rocker would be unnecessary but some may like a little. The problem with rocker is that you end up wishing the whole deck was as low as the lowest spot which means going back to flat with more drop. I am going to pursue the drop molds as an experiment and add concave with the wedge strips. The beefy rails feel very solid and lend themselves to hand rails on the underside. The weight of a good plywood speedboard is fine as is, and absorbs a lot of shock when combined with rubber/urethane pads. The specs for my speedboard can be found at http://www.chrischaput.com/speedboarding by clicking on the "nose" or "tail" pictures toward the bottom. There is a chance that I'll be experimenting with custom made plastic wedge strips that bolt (or velcro) onto the top of the deck to make concave. They could be made very light in weight, absorb shock and have griptape adhere to it nicely. You might even be able put one of a handful of different "whole concave platform covers" on top of a deck and dial in the amount (if any) of concave that you want! Having molds that don't attempt to add concave are easy to build, and I'm telling you, this wedge strip deal has a TON of potential. The glued on wood version worked flawlessly on a VERY challenging (and long) rough course.
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On 10/13/2000 Glen
wrote in from
(216.101.nnn.nnn)
Chris, if your going to try to bend the wood at those extreme angles. Be sure to use a bunch of super thin plys. Those tight angles will probably crack regular thickness maple skateboard ply. I would consider heating the wood and would also use an epoxy that you can heat to help in the bending process.
What about using less severe angles and going to a more rockered deck area to help maintain rigidity and maintain the lowered center of gravity?
I'm not a downhiller.
What is a good wheelbase/deck area/overall lenght/width for the type of board you are building? And how much is board weight a factor?
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On 10/12/2000
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
(63.168.nnn.nnn)
Here's another sketch of something I think both Hugh and I want to build. I am going to pursue the drop with a mold, and the concave with wedge strips glued onto the rails afterward. The top of the deck would have one of those flexible disc sanders round out the concave sections. I guarantee a board made this way would be strong and ride well. Very little deck drop would be needed with trucks dropped through the top. The new sketch is here http://www.chrischaput.com/design/bends.jpg
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