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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 10/22/1999 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
ret. Steve Just drill it straight at the wheelbase you want it to be, leave it 7/8 thick unfinnished and put it together. Then stand on it carefully, check the flex, and use your best judgement. There's no way anybody can tell you for sure. You can always add fiberglass after its shaped or beams ,or you can bevel it for more flex then fiberglass it for springyness sounds like a really big flexy board though.
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On 10/22/1999
steve
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
I am currently in the process of making a board. I need to know how thick or thin I should plane it. I am 190 pounds. I plan to make the wheelbase around 47 inches. The board is made of fir and walnut. It is 60 inches long and about 11 inches wide for most of the length. The fir is the main type of wood and the walnut is the stringers/stripes. The center of the board is 4 1/2 inches wide of fir. On the outside of that is a 3/4 inch wide peice of walnut. The most outboard is 2 3/4 inches of fir. The thickest my board can be is 7/8. Should I shorten the wheelbase? Should I consider an underboard wood spar from truck to truck or fiberglass reinforcement? Or will the wood hold on its own? Help!
steve
PS: If you can, please e-mail me by clicking on my name, or just sending your answer to BKGSteve@aol.com. It'd be GREATLY appreciated, since I need this info ASAP!!!
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On 10/21/1999 Herb n
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
You could just mix the epoxy, haveing the fiberglass cut to the size of the wood(before cutting the shape)then spread a layer of epoxy on the deck,then lay the fiberglass out over the wet epoxy,then spread enough epoxy on top of the glass, just enough to saturate the glass fabric,pressure is not really necessary but will make thing stronger. flat thick pieces of wood (with a non stick layer) and something real heavy like a car or jacking against the beams of a house.
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On 10/20/1999
aftermath
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
how would you go about putting a layer of fiberglass on a board? i'm trying to make an extra-long board also (my longest is 4').
oh yeah, i've ridden brian's board and it really does flex a hell of a lot...it just about scrapes the ground. but it's a sweet ride.
thanx
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On 10/20/1999 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Fiberglass can be bought through any number of sources. Hobby Shops, Autobody supplies,Aircraft Supplies. The later has the most hightech stuff (aircraft spruce.com)autobody is the lowest tech,don't use polyester resins ,stick with epoxys, and measure accurately.
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On 10/20/1999 Jon
wrote in from
(209.232.nnn.nnn)
where can I get fiberglass? What is the best kind of fiberglass to get for a board? How much does this stuff cost?
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On 10/20/1999 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
re:brian ,maybe try a layer of fiberglass/epoxy on your next board? a six footer could use some reinforcement,or at least the springier feeling would be cool, and maybe make the board feel solid enough to ride in the middle, or just go with 1 inch thick poplar.
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On 10/19/1999
Charlie
wrote in from
(63.28.nnn.nnn)
hey there i am a friend of a guy that makes some really good quality boards the design name is quiet time boards they are some big boards his first board is a 5 ft board by about 11 inches wide its a fun shaped board its pretty damn fun if you ask me i ride it sometimes im in the process of getting one made for me soon there are alot of demands for these boards they sell as fast as they are made but if you are from the santabarbara county and would like more info get a hold of me or my friend Jeff my email is qtimekilla@hotmail.com his is bonilla4@thegrid.net get some info if you want also desging cothes pretty soon i have a big feeling that this is gonna be big
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On 10/19/1999
brian
wrote in from
(206.105.nnn.nnn)
I just made a six foot board out of 3/4 inch poplar (herb, you were right it isn't that heavy) It has really nice flex but i don't ride it in the middle, more over/behind the front truck. i have RII's on there and it carves o.k.. the wheel base is a little less than 4 1/2 feet.
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On 10/19/1999 tc
wrote in from
(209.178.nnn.nnn)
wood for cheap? go to a hardwood shop like house of hardwoods in west la. they'll have good oak, poplar, birch etc. as well as plyboards- the best being baltic birch 13 ply 5/8". Roughly 5-10$ per 5 footer. Home depot has cheap 4-ply and real boards of "knotty pine" too sodt and weak to use for a decent deck. Stick with the good stuff, it's cheap too.
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On 10/19/1999 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Was just over in home depot, getting a taperd table leg to cut up and use is filler in my downhill gloves while I lace and glue the plastic onto the fingers with genuine DC oval laces, and I saw what looked like nice 48x10 maple and oak about 5/8 thick laquered and ready to cut into a board,for only seven bucks ,when looking closely I realized they were just vineered on all sides and probabely had a core of particle board, just a warning.
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On 10/18/1999 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Poplar heavy? I generally thought of poplar as one of the lighter easier to chip and splinter type of wood, good for a light responcive cruiser but not really good for bangin around.
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On 10/17/1999
brian
wrote in from
(206.105.nnn.nnn)
can somone suggest a good wood to use for a board that has a wheel base of 54 inches? i would use 3/4in. poplar but it is reel heavy and no flex. any input would be helpful
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On 10/16/1999
aftermath
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
after i made my first two boards traditionally and only 4ft long, i decided tonight at around midnight i wanted to get the longest board possible. so i took a 2x4 and screwed mismatched trux and wheels (all i have at the moment) to the bottom. it's 8feet long! it turns like a bitch tho. i think i'm going to have to add wedge risers...
ps if anyone can tell me about pouring wheels i'd appreciate it.
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On 10/15/1999
dan k
wrote in from
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yea it is cool i recomend it
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On 10/14/1999
namon
wrote in from
(209.209.nnn.nnn)
That is hella cool.
If I had a surf board, I would do that too
naMon
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On 10/14/1999
dan k
wrote in from
(209.252.nnn.nnn)
yea it is awsome. I used my little brothers old short board so it is tiny i am not sure what size but it rides real nice
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On 10/13/1999
namon
wrote in from
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Dan, what kind of board did you use?
does it work ey?
naMon
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On 10/13/1999
Dan k
wrote in from
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I made a board out of a old surf board
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On 10/8/1999 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Yeah that would probabely work. But this is a page about making your own board, and I was just figuring out a way to make a board that would give a racer a better chance at showing just how well polished and precise his little balls of brass are.
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On 10/8/1999 mule
wrote in from
(209.63.nnn.nnn)
maybe that tiny advantage can be attributed to high precision,
,custom, finely ground, mirror polished balls of brass.
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On 10/7/1999 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
I was think'n (watch out)in a race situation extremely small advantages can help you coast by someone and edge them out going into a corner. If your board is not perfectly straight you'll be continuously turning ,just a tiny bit, to go straight. You may not notice it, and everybodies board may do this ,so all racers are even.This goes beyond the truck mounting bolts being lined up,its been noted (by myself and others) that trucks are not perfect; Randles, and every other truck, Kingpin holes are drilled off center pivot cups may also be off,you can work around this. Buy your trucks first,make two strips (I would use metal)with holes drilled (5/16) at the wheelbase length that your board will have ,drill both at once so they're the same.Now you can bolt the trucks together, the exact way they will be on the board (oh yeah mark the trucks front and back) now mark the truck holes using the bolted together trucks and drill them. X the holes to find the centerline and trace then cut your shape around that center line.All trucks are not equal,if you look at the gravity games Biker had a definite weight advantage and should have out coasted Lemo in the straights, and I think if they both used aluminators( actually lemo used some red wheels maybe that did it) and ninja bearings yet Lee had that tiny edge in coasting, maybe his Indys his particular pair, were straighter than Bikers' Randles once again just that particular pair,it could be skill it could be the tiniest difference, I'm just talking about eliminating a definite cause of drag, its not even that hard really and it could give you and your homemade board a slight advantage that the factory guys probabely don't have because they probabely use stock or at best prototype boards that are not made like this.
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On 10/5/1999
Chris
wrote in from
(167.208.nnn.nnn)
Sharc,
There's this stuff called Goo Off or Goo Gone or something like that which is a solvent specifically design to dissolve the glues from stickers and tapes, like grip tape. I just used it on a fiberglass deck and didn't have any problems, but you might want to test it on a small area first. Good luck,
Chris
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On 10/5/1999
sharc
wrote in from
(207.24.nnn.nnn)
I am putting together an older fiberglass decks, after peeling off all the old tape (which stinks real bad) I still have to get the rest of the goop and sand crystals off. any advice on what to clen it with that won't break down the epoxy.
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On 9/29/1999 Mario
wrote in from
(205.227.nnn.nnn)
Aftermath, I made a 38" longboard out of 5-ply, 5/8" birch. I'm 180 lbs and it flexes nicely for my weight. Using 1/2" ply might be a little too flexible, but that depends on the wheelbase and the width, too. My board is 9.5" wide, tapers a lot towards the tail, and the wheelbase is as long as I could make it. My first board was 44" long but I had to cut it down because it flexed too much.
One neat thing I did was to select a piece of wood that was slightly warped. I used this warp to give the board a camber. This probably makes the board a little stiffer, too.
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