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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 6/16/2004 Mercury
wrote in from
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How to keep the holes open?
Whenever I fiberglass a deck, approx four of the mounting holes get plugged up with resin. This is a problem because it basically involves re-drilling them without a true center mark. Does anyone know of something, that I can stuff into the holes, that the resin will not stick to?
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On 6/14/2004 The lady of the lake
wrote in from
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that turner could be like Excalibur.
Rising out of the lake for King Alan, uh i mean Arthur.
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On 6/14/2004
silversurfer
wrote in from
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I guess the Wicked could double as a surf skate...
...the nexxt Slide Gear product maybe...
...how about a snow skate/skateboard/surf skate?
too wierd?
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On 6/13/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
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funny incident: i let someone ride my wicked out at the ledges of joke st. beach and he promptly shot it into the lake. thought for sure that he was gonna have to take a little swim but as i watched him get on his belly and reach down into lake michigan i realized that the board musta been floating all along...
...amazing stuff composites.
there's also that story of my turner lost in the lake for about 10 years but that's one to be retold some other time.
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On 6/13/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
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getting a bit thin skinned lately so i've been shoppin' around for latex to keep this board fetish on a roll...
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On 6/11/2004
frank
wrote in from
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I got intouch with a wood mill. They do mostly veneers and will sell a log of maple cut down to 1/16" at whatever length and width. I didnt catch the name but the # is 812-945-6623. I think they are in tennesse somewhere.
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On 6/11/2004
Dustin Lee
wrote in from
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I've been designing a DH board for some time now. I've got it all done on a cad program and will use a laser cutter to cut it. The only problem now is the wood to use. It was recommended to me to use a 3/4" birch, as it's easy to come by. I checked it out and it is a 13 ply 3/4" sheet. It seems like it will work fine, but any feedback/experience would be really helpful so I don't waste money.
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On 6/11/2004
frank
wrote in from
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I called a veneer type warehouse looking for suggegstions. They called me this morning and gave me a name of a mill that might could help. He said they dont cut maple this time of year because of the high sap and sugar content of the wood. He said maple is a winter cutting wood. I'll call the mill today, maybe a bunch of us could go in on some wood if we can ever find some.
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On 6/10/2004
Yan0
wrote in from
(69.164.nnn.nnn)
I went back to the cabinet maker to pick up more birch, and to get some maple stock (planed it down to 1/2" for a 36-40" board and 5/8 for a 60" board). I also got some mahogany and cherry. All that ran me.. yeah .. a s#@!load. So now not only is the lumber industry providing us (dare I say schmucks?) with less, but they are charging us more. Its all proof that I should give up school, start up a lumber mill, and be the robin hood of wood.. plus my title would rhyme.
Yan0
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On 6/10/2004
Frank
wrote in from
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So I just went by the shop ive been getting wood at and now they dont even carry maple!! All they have is 1/4" birch backed with luan. stoopid crackas
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On 6/10/2004
frank
wrote in from
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Yan0 when I first started getting my wood I was getting 1/4" and they said they had 1/8". Yesterday I called them to make sure they had some in stock. They told me they quit making maple sheets that thin. So I called about 10 other places and the only thing I can find now is 1/8" birch backed with luan. Its a 6 hr drive to pick that up. So now I'm in your same boat. I know you can order some from the roarockit guys but, I dont think they would ship a sheet or actually they probably would. I have ordered 1/42" veneer from a guy in tennesee off of ebay. It was a better deal than driving 6hrs for a sheet of crap. I was going to get intouch with that guy today to see if he could come up with something. How do all the sudden they stop making maple sheets? Did Canada burn down?
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On 6/9/2004
Dave G
wrote in from
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All I know is my "Wicked" is like wearing Berkinstocks but nekid!!! The foot bed contours to the bottom of my footsies like budda!!!!!
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On 6/9/2004
Yan0
wrote in from
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Frank,
I have been looking for maple, and my neighbor (also a cabinet maker) didn't think that Maple ply existed.. at least not like baltic ply where it is all birch (or in this case maple. He could find baltic with a maple veneer. Do you have a name of the wood you are getting so that I could get ahold of it?
Thanks
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On 6/9/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
just want to thank you hugh for posting those shots of the decks i've been working on. you're too cool...
the first pic is of both the top and bottom of my new deck design called the GT or GrooveThang! it details the roughed out rocker with rolled out edges in the mid section (harder or sharper edges were maintained at the nose and tail). it may be tough to recognize this but i dropped the truck mount area a bit but left most of the material on the underbelly, the area around the truck, and nose and tail sections. i cut a trough all around the edge providing a nice rail to grab on to.
though this board is quite stiff (w/o a carbon skin), it handles surprisingly well for pumping. you can almost wrap your toes around the deck at the midsection in a modified parallel stance. going form nose to tail one will find a concave tail, then a convex middle area, and then another concave at the nose. the crescent transition between convex and concave came about as a bit of a surprise. this feature really makes this board feel so low to the ground (almost fells bent was my first observation). as i mentioned before this deck was derived from previously existing stock. i like this board so much that i'm thinking of doing it in various lengths ranging from 34 to 36 inches using wood, foam, and carbon composites.
the other deck pictured is the latest version of the wicked. this one took me a little over a year to finish because i took my time (and loathed the possibility of screwing it all up while in its final stages). for the most part it has a 6 ply birch core with foam features on top protected by a sheet of fiberglass and foam covering the whole underbelly which is in turn covered w/two layers of carbon 30°/30° and 90°/0° (sealed up against the wooden "bone") which comprises the primary structure.
this new wicked flexes quite stiff. the 1/2" caber is minimized quite a bit by the pediform deck features. i would almost describe it as a 1/8" camber when it was finished. one change i may be making to this deck is to sink the mounting hardware past the glass and foam so it rests on the wood in the middle. this will give one an unobstructed experience of the decks concave and convex curvatures. all this combined with sm (street medium) up trucks and red avalons (for now) gives one the demandingly fast smooth and very quiet ride.
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On 6/9/2004
Frank
wrote in from
(24.153.nnn.nnn)
You should be able to get any wood in that size for under $30. I go to a local cabinet maker and get maple in various thicknesses for about $20 for a 4'x8' sheet.
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On 6/8/2004
james
wrote in from
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Hey I was wonde3ring if I could get some advice on what wood is good to use for building homemade boards?
I spent about 3 days building a sweet slalom board but the wood ended up being to weak and eventually cracked. I'm looking for some wood thats inexpensive (roughly no more then $30 for a 2" by 8" sheet) and can flex a little bit. IS maple a good choice? birch?
I've tried CDX plywood which was very cheap and inexpensive, and cracked. thanks.
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On 6/8/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
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...latex, for that silky smooth finish.
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On 6/8/2004
Duane
wrote in from
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Alan, do you have to wear a rubber suit when you ride that thing ?
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On 6/8/2004 hugh r
wrote in from
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Here's the second Sidlo pic... HR
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On 6/8/2004 hugh r
wrote in from
(69.166.nnn.nnn)
YanO... I am using both sealed and sheilded bearings (however the came from the factory)
Here's the first Sidlo pic... HR
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On 6/8/2004
Yan0
wrote in from
(69.164.nnn.nnn)
Frank, Thanks. Hugh R, I was just looking at your bearing testing pages (highly informative). Just curiously, did you use bearings with seals, or with sheilds, or were some sheilded, and some sealed?
Yan0
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On 6/7/2004
Rock Shoka
wrote in from
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Hi i have made a few boards and i am looking to buy some maple veneers to start kicking my production up. Any help finding suppliers with low minimums would be a great help
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On 6/7/2004
hugh r
wrote in from
(69.166.nnn.nnn)
Alan... shoot them over to me in an email... if the pics are averaged sized, ust the yahoo one above if larger, then shoot me an e and I'll give you my work email (it'll handle bigger pics)
Looking forward to seeing what you've come up with! HR
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On 6/7/2004
Frank
wrote in from
(24.153.nnn.nnn)
Yano: Ask momma boe on the www.silverfish.com website. He is a V-Lam master. I think there are already a few threads there on how to do it.
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On 6/7/2004
Yan0
wrote in from
(69.164.nnn.nnn)
I am starting to think about building a V-lam board, but I have no clue how thick I should plane the wood. I am going to start out with a fairly simple board: Mostly maple with a couple Mahogany stringers, but eventually try to build something like a "loaded" board. If anyone has any pointers, I would appreciate them. I assume that the procedure is to laminate the wood into a flat board, then if you want camber/concave/tail, soak it, clamp it in a jig, then cut it out.
Thanks
Jed
David, that is a beautiful board, and much like what I am going for!!
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