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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 7/1/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
knowin' the groove, the tool is the mind, the feel of the wood. understanding what doesn't makes sense the shape's in your head, there's just no defeanse. run your fingers in sweet caress your senses linger as you bring it to a form...
...of itself.
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On 7/1/2004
Yan0
wrote in from
(69.164.nnn.nnn)
I think so.. not completely sure though. If not I can try to retrofit a spindle onto a drill press..... time will tell
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On 6/30/2004 skatestarr
wrote in from
(68.123.nnn.nnn)
Thanks for the info. Do they make a spindle sander with a 2" drum? I've only seen smaller. The tricky part of the jig is figuring out the angle to rest the deck at...
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On 6/30/2004
Yan0
wrote in from
(69.164.nnn.nnn)
Wheelwells: What I normally do is make a template out of paper for the shape, line it up on one side, trace it onto the board, and repeat on the other side. Then take a 2" (or something) drum sander on a high speed drill and sand away. Try to stay in the line, and count how many ply you have sanded through. Once you have one side the way you want it, try to copy it on the other side. Pay attention to where the low point is, and how the ply pattern, go slow and make as many adjustments as needed. Mine don't turn out perfect, but you need to look closely to notice differences. I am working (see:solidifying idea in this twisted head of mine) on a jig to use with a spinde sander where you basically press the board into the spindle, move it as much as the jig allows, flip the board, and move on.
Cheers
Yan0
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On 6/30/2004
Skatestarr
wrote in from
(199.46.nnn.nnn)
What's up people, does anyone have any advice on making wheel wells (with hand tools or machined)? I currently use a round rasp file but it is a backbreaker and they never turn out quite alike.
Thanks
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On 6/30/2004
IOWASK8ER
wrote in from
(12.216.nnn.nnn)
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On 6/30/2004
yoyo schulz
wrote in from
(217.6.nnn.nnn)
About sanding edges:
I take a fine wood rasp and get the basic rounded edge shape and then use 80/120 grit sandpaper to do the finish.
Grip tape scraps work too.
YOYO
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On 6/28/2004
brad
wrote in from
(64.136.nnn.nnn)
Palm sanders rock. Sand to the [template]line......that's the way....yeah.
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On 6/28/2004 Chief Red Beef
wrote in from
(24.185.nnn.nnn)
I have routers, sanders, scrapers, files, etc., etc., etc.
When I want to round of the edges of a thin board I sand. Hand sand.
It's the only way.
Get yourself a block of wood and some stick on sandpaper is nice.
Stick the sand paper to the block. Start with 80 grit to take a bunch off at once. Move to 120 (stick the paper to something flexible you can bend it or maybe just stick it to your hand. Sand.
Move to 180 or 220. Sand.
And if you want, move to something even finer. (although 220 will probably do it).
To sand a board from square edge to nicely, evenly, rounded takes about 5 minutes.
It's not so bad.
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On 6/27/2004
Jonathan Harms
wrote in from
(24.107.nnn.nnn)
Crash, do you have *any* way of buying a power sander (eBay, perhaps)? I'm sure shipping to Japan costs as much as or more than the sander itself, so maybe the suggestion is useless. But if you can find a cheap one, it's worth it.
I have made a couple dozen boards over the years and did every single one (until the last two) with a hand file and then whatever sandpaper I could scrounge up. It worked, but what a f&*^%! pain in the ass! A couple of years ago, I finally bought a random-orbit (?) Black & Decker sander (the kind that takes 5" Velcro-backed circular sanding discs), and man, does it make short work of projects like this. What took an hour and a half with a hand file/rasp now takes less than 10 minutes--and does a much better, cleaner job of it. You can also use it to sand the surface of the deck to prepare it for staining or painting.
I bought mine at a closeout store for maybe 25 bucks (in the USA, obviously). Having never been to Japan myself, I will take your word for it that prices there are sky-high. But if you can somehow find a cheap one anywhere, you won't regret it.
Psycholloyd, sorry I missed the race this past weekend. I've never seen any of your boards up close and would like to have a look sometime.
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On 6/27/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
i realized that, crash...
...works every time.
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On 6/26/2004
crash
wrote in from
(221.113.nnn.nnn)
Some good ideas for rounding the edges. Just the kind of thing I was hoping for.
herbn: I thought of that one too. Couldn't find one at the nearest hardware store, but I will try another. Sounds like you can get a really consistant rounded edge with it.
Dave G.: Yes, the one in the pic is already gripped. I'm looking for ideas for future boards. That one is my second board. The first broke after I tried reshaping it for my wifes smaller feet size. I took too much of and when testing the truck tension, it snapped under my weight just behind the front truck in line with the drop thru hole. I have enough leftover wood from the second board to make a third. I cut it today and it will be a nice little pintail for cruising and carving.
psYchOLioyd: You're right about leftover grip. It's nice and gritty and should rough out an edge nicely. I have a bunch of leftover pieces I saved "just in case" and I'm glad I did. And yes the skate in the pick IS for my wife. (smile) She knew it was going to be her's, otherwise I probably couldn't have convinced her to do all the sanding and staining.
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On 6/26/2004 DAve G
wrote in from
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
I'm w/ PsYCho on this one (as usual) You can also get an inexpensive furniture scraper (the come in all shapes and sizes. It's nothing more than a hunka steel with a true 90 burred edge. Fro the pics it looks like you already gripped it? hmmmmm?
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On 6/26/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
i bought a little rounding handplane,cool little tool,it's made out of hardwood and has a v shaped groove to run the parts through it's hand sized,maybe 6 inches long .I use it mostly (actually exclusively) for(uhmw) plastic . Usually i clamp the plain in my vise and run the parts over it. It has two blades behind each other and you can set them independantly,one shallow one a bit deeper.Very cool, i think it cost thirty bucks or so.
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On 6/25/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
most of my work consists of finishing decks off by hand, utilizing anything in sight as a possible tool. in paris i wound up using a pocket knife to scrape out part of the contour on a deck while sitting on the sidewalk in front of the hotel. chop sticks, scraps of plastic, kitchen implements, vibra... (massagers) are all fair game when it comes to getting things done.
my favorite tool is scrap grip tape so i never throw away the cut-outs. simply peel off the backing, slap that puppy onto your palm and go to town. keep a careful eye on the layers to give you an indication of where you're at on the curve. if you're not that creative just cut a 3" length of 3/4" pvc pipe in half down its length (metal will work too but yikes...) and lay some grip along the inside. use this as your sanding jig so you can get an even looking edge.
hth, and have fun building that skate for your wife... yeah, right!
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On 6/25/2004
crash
wrote in from
(220.98.nnn.nnn)
Just wanted to show my latest board and hopefully get some advice. This one was made for my wife. She wants to hit the hills with me and how could I say no? It also gave me an excuse to buy all I needed to have fun making another board. It's made for drop-thru trucks as she likes the stability of the low CG. I even got her to do all the sanding and staining! Gotta love it when you can share like that.
Now for the advice I need. Does anyone have a good idea for rounding over the edges of the board after it has ben shaped? Hand sanding only seems to just slightly round over the corner, but I'd like it more like a store bought model. I can't afford a router or the router attachment for my dremel (the prices here in Japan are insane for power tools) so I'd like a low tech approach if possible. Thanks.
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On 6/24/2004
JB
wrote in from
(24.78.nnn.nnn)
As a long-time viewer, I just want to thank all the contributors to this forum for helping me through a long winter. Now that I've built a few boards I thought it was time I stop taking and start giving back.
Hopefully this posting includes pictures of the last two boards I've built - 38" x 8 1/3" doublekick park boards with Formica bottoms. They're made out of 2 sheets of 1/4 Baltic Birch laminated together and have about 1/2" of concave and 1/4" camber (to keep them extra stiff).The two pics on the left are of the board I just finished and have not rode yet, and the one on the right was the prototype that has seen about 6 weeks of riding at the local bowl and my backyard mini. The Formica has stood up excellent - no chipping, and the obvious wear is from about 50 boardslides in a concrete paddling pool.
In the near future I hope to put up a site detailing my construction methods. I've built an adjustable camber/kicktail jig that falls somewhere inbetween Toothless and Doug K.'s methods and a full-on press. It produces very consistent blanks (although built 2 months apart, the contours of these two boards match perfectly). I hope to have the site up within a month, but if people are interested I can supply pics now.
Thanks again for the inspiration.
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On 6/19/2004
jamez
wrote in from
(4.156.nnn.nnn)
sup ya'll/.
Just droppin by to see if anyone has purchased and used some of the wood Lush Longboards has for sale on their site? Its 20 bucks for a small sheet but its prolly some good wood. HAs anyone built their own board using lush's wood? thanks
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On 6/17/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
for a cheap 'n ez hole filler upper using chop sticks also came in handy...
...the pine kind (bamboo splinters too much for this purpose).
kinda sharpen one end small enough to enter the whole, stick it in and break it off, sand down anything proturding. flip the deck over and do this to the other end. to drill out use the smallest bit you can muster to get through both plugs. then use a larger one to finish off. this should take out only the pine which comprises weakest point.
i do like duane's idea though you may wind up w/alot of waste. but that can also be resolved by spraying any exess foam into an empty beer can or bottle letting it overflow. call it crazy art. or set these on a street corner and watch the neighborhood drunks puzzle as they try to take a sip of the solid stuff!
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On 6/17/2004 Mercury
wrote in from
(208.59.nnn.nnn)
Thanks, YanO and Duane. Both of those solutions sound nice.
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On 6/17/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
for hole filling, try a bit of polyfoam. That's the expanding insulation in the can. It will stick like gangbusters so fill the holes, let it cure, then sand smooth. leave a little depression so you can see when you are done. It is so much softer than the wood, your bit will be guided properly. I usually use an abrasive tool to re-drill, you are less likely to take a bite of something good (sharp cone-shaped bit in the Dremel).
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On 6/17/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
YanO, you need to drop the method of soaking the wood. Not only does it delaminate the wood, but thenceforth you have high moisture content in the wood, which may contaminate your epoxy and screw things up. If your epoxy is mixed well it should not remain tacky. I expect epoxy to harden completely so that it can be readily sanded without loading the paper. You must make sure the carbon is fully wetted out, it is hard to see micro-bubbles in a black layer. I like to move projects to a warmer space, after lay-up, to get a hard cure. Use a scale to measure the quantities of hardener and resin. Liquid measure is considered not accurate enough. If you continue to get the tacky surface, switch suppliers. I find the West System with the slow cure hardener to work very well, and available in virtually any good hardware store. Try some test patches a couple inches square, its a lot cheaper than making junk boards.
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On 6/16/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
hmmm, non-stick hole fillers?
try:
ear wax
toe jam
belly button lint
but maybe candle (or "sex") wax will do in a pinch...
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On 6/16/2004 Erik
wrote in from
(4.227.nnn.nnn)
Ive only made one board so far but when I took it out of the bending jig
I noticed that the ends where spliting. How can I prevent this?
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On 6/16/2004
Yan0
wrote in from
(69.164.nnn.nnn)
I know that LDPE doesn't stick to the epoxy I use (JGreer Blue System), so i use trash bags when I am trying to create a "stick proof layer. I don't think that epoxy sticks to duct tape either.. but I havent tried it. I would suggest wrapping a 3/16" (or whatever dia) in trashbag, taping either end, and sticking it through. It should hold, and you could just pop it out afterward.
On the subject of expoxies... As I mentioned before, I use the JGreer Blue system for composite laminating (I am beginnning to use it to lamniate wood layers as well). I am not wholly convinced that the stuff is doing what it is supposed to. I don't know a whole lot about composites.. so Duane, or anyone for that matter, perhaps you could shed a little light on this. A: most times when I put a layer of carbon on, the carbon layer remains a little sticky (I squeegee off almost everything I can when laminating, so there isn't excess epoxy) Also, in some places the epoxy remains not completely hardened, while in others (including in the pot) dry rock hard (and yes, I take care to mix everything up well). B: if I am not mistaken, the epoxy you use should have an impact as far as flex is concerned, a flexable epoxy does less, while a stiffer (albeit more brittle) epoxy makes things snappier. I tried making a dropped CG DH board, like the landyachtz DH race. I made it by soaking 3ply birch, and pressing it. I then coated it with two layers of glass and two layers of carbon. it is still flimsy as all hell. Granted the glass and carbon arent too far from the center of the board, but I was expecting a more dramatic change, or at least a discernable change. I think (or rather, I would like to think) that the fault lies in the integrity of the epoxy, not me.
Any thoughts?
Yan0
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