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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 7/21/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
Oops, unclear language...the lower hanger height makes the hanger "swing" a little better, and tip a little less, than the higher Dart. Mechanically the pivot itself is the same. There is no question the oldschool version looks better, the crappy "Venture Look", poor polish, and sily-looking notch for the bushings just looks bad. The original has a nice, swoopy design and is a bit lighter, and much lighter in magnesium.
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On 7/20/2004 Mercury
wrote in from
(208.59.nnn.nnn)
Duane,
Why do you consider the pivot of the original sixtrack better than what the 160mm Dart (current Sixtrack) has?
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On 7/20/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
88mm hanger, the pressed axle will have 150mm plain shank allowing 6-8mm of spacing inside or outside the wheels as needed, so it can be 88 or 104mm or anything in between. The 2mm spacers that Dan had for the original Seismics are the business, very precise. SS your computer screen must be funky !
I think RII are the best combo of turning and stability, with full wheel cut-outs and big soft bushings you can really crank 'em over. The sixtracks are really no different than most conventional trucks, most will turn well with a little love. The Aggro bases add 5 degrees more turning without wedges. Sixtracks are more stable than most conventional trucks, I used to take them pretty fast until Randals came along, and they were the speed truck of choice in the 80's. By sixtracks I mean orininal ones, lower and better pivot than the "reissues".
Got carbon today, scrounging for low-dollar bagging materials. Folks who spend big $$$ getting set up for bagging waste their money, stuff laying arounds works great for very short dollars.
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On 7/20/2004 Dave G
wrote in from
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
Uhhh.. Silver, that would be the king pin bolt head! Duane, you didn't address the axle question! Spinning or pressed? And also what width is that cut to?
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On 7/20/2004 ss
wrote in from
(24.62.nnn.nnn)
Duane, do those six tracks turn tighter than Randal's? I thought Randal R2's were supposed to be the best turning conventional trucks. What would be the best for extreme turniness and decent stability? I don't have experience with a lot of trucks. My Original's turn great and are pretty stable. My grind kings really don't turn at all, for me anyway, some people think they are ok.
I guess I don't turn a lot when I am going real fast, just small adjustments at speed. At lower speeds I do like to be able to whip around pretty quickly.
Have you ever tried Original trucks? In my limited experience they are very smoooth.
DaVE G. - Ok the elbow shaped thing I am talking about is right on top of the green bushing in the picture, where the bolt head usually goes. Right?
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On 7/20/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
I just slapped in an original Randal kingpin bolt for the photo, to hold the hanger and bushings on. The finished truck will have a 3" grade 8 kingpin cut down to about 2 5/8". That way, the area where the bushings and hanger tend to pinch in a turn, is plain shank bolt. Sometimes the bushings get caught on threads there with shorter kingpins, and smoothness is lost. SS you may never have ridden Randals or other conventional trucks dialed for maximum turning. I can assure you my magnesium sixtracks (Aggro baseplates, longer kingpins, magical white pivot bushings, double soft green stimulators, small top washer) will turn tight enough to exceed the limit of traction for any wheel, as long as you are going faster than a jog. The smoothness, or complete lack thereof, on spring trucks just does not add anything to the skating experience. If I want to turn really tight while going slow, I'll just kickturn the board, kicktail willing.
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On 7/20/2004 DAve G
wrote in from
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
SS, Now you have us all confused!! WHAT ELBOW SHAPED THING? You mean the base plate? Cutting the width of the hanger will make a truck "turnier" and the bearing pivot will make it more "predictable" and "stable" Nice work Duane!! Is the axle free spinning or have you just not "pressed one in yet?" P.S...No washer on the top stim?
Sweet enjoyment
Dave G
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On 7/20/2004 ss
wrote in from
(24.62.nnn.nnn)
Just curious...what's that elbow shaped thing where the king pin bolt usually goes?
Would this conversion work with R2's or no? Would it be too twitchy?
There is no such thing as too turny in my book. I like original trucks.
Would this conversion give R2's tight turning like original's while maintaining Randal stability. That would be so cool...
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On 7/20/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
it seems like a very logical theory,it's hard to say if i have any real experiment to back it up,however my own trucks do seem to work better with close tolerence pivots, unless of course they are actually tight fitting.Ball bearing pivot with no play have a diturbing amount of responciveness.Duane is using a dh randal,because of the geometry(very flat)they lien more than they steer and a close tolerence pivot will make less of increase to steering, than if they were steep 50 degree randals.
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On 7/19/2004 Rob
wrote in from
(216.249.nnn.nnn)
Duane:
Beautiful work - looks fantastic!!!!!!.
Love to hear how they ride.
All the best,
Rob
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On 7/18/2004 hc
wrote in from
(69.104.nnn.nnn)
herbn, are you basing what you said base on experience or just a theory?
(didn't your adjustable angle truck have a sherical bearing for the pivot?)
I think that randals (especially downhills) with sperical bearing pivots won't have a drastic change in feel compare to an indy/gus coversion because of the different weight loading of the pivots.
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On 7/18/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(165.121.nnn.nnn)
pivot pics
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On 7/17/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
If you convert any truck to a more accurate pivot ,it will steer sharper.A truck is a mechanism that trades liening for steering ,at a particular exchange rate,pivot angle. There are a few more variables,at the easiest level it's true.Any play in the pivot lets the truck lien straight over,just a bit ,before it arcs,at the angle it's designed to. Given a limited range,be it by bushingsm, or by wheel clearencem,wasted liening is unrealized steeringm, or at least a lag in the trucks response.
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On 7/17/2004
Duane's Randal's
wrote in from
(24.62.nnn.nnn)
Please let us know how those trucks turn! Would they turn a lot tighter than normal randals with upgraded bushings? Very facinating. You might have to go into business, like geezer x. If they work as good as they sound, I want a set!
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On 7/15/2004
Yan0
wrote in from
(69.164.nnn.nnn)
Duane, Sounds facinating. Hope the pics work out, I wanna see it!!
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On 7/15/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
I have the Randal trucks done now, save for axle installation. The pivot works like absolute butter. I jammed in the spherical bearings so tight they will probably never come out. The new aluminum pivot pin fits in the bearing so snug, that you have to jam it in and spin it a bit to release the air stuck in the pivot cup. I put a pair of thin teflon washers over the pin before installing it, so the friction is almost zero, yet no slop at all. You can flip the hanger without even pulling the pivot out of the bearing. The cool thing is, the angle on the truck can now be adjusted something like minus a couple degrees, and plus around 5, just by removing or stacking spacers under the bottom cushion. The pivot "bushing", being a spherical bearing, accomodates this without a problem, still giving perfect rotation. The limit is when the hanger begins to hit the kingpin, because the hole is no longer centered, or when the cushions are too far off square with the hanger. But with big cooshy double stimulators, that doesn't happen very quickly.
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On 7/14/2004 hc
wrote in from
(69.104.nnn.nnn)
http://www.fibertechboardco.com/
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On 7/14/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
the broken board lingered for the past couple weeks, should i just jam the two pieces together with some epoxym, fill in a few missing chips?,nah.This board was never really as cool as i wanted it to be, it was a bit stiff and the conventional shape force a set of 3/4 inch risers,these made my ultra low trucks handle funny, it slowed the steering yet somehow made them a bit less stable. I tore the board down chiseled off the risers, that had been slightly glued in place by the final rub on coat of epoxy,and i cut the tail straight across. I made a screw on "tail/handle",matched the thickness of the aluminum to the thickness of the board,honeycombed it with counter sunk mounting holes so it would screw( with 10 screws) into the vertical face of the flatly cut off tail then shaped the sides to match the shape of the board and cut the hole that would be the hand hold. Making sure to mount it square and sanding and blending it ,and the board to blend it into the board. Next the full clearence notches.
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On 7/14/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
pintail,rebuild. I lost my newest pintail to a chunk of gravel (from an unpaved driveway)m,i was pushing a bit up hill at the time looking for traffic to cross with the last bit of momentum. WEll ANYway the board shot out irritrevably downhill, i watched it,helplessly head towards traffic figuring the whole thing would be shot including a set of handmade billit trucks.A car steered infront of my board,it bounced off the innerside wall of the right front tire,with a loud cracking sound and headed back about 75 of the hundred 125 feet it had gone downhill,i ran a few steps and caught up to my board , the tail of the pintail had snapped off at the tow hole,otherwise it was fine.
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On 7/13/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
you are getting very sleepy... when you wake up you will have infusion on the brain... infusion... iiinnnnfffffffuuusssiiiooonnnnnnnn.
WAKE UP!!!
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On 7/13/2004
Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
uh-oh ordered some more carbon. I'll be doing some pretty basic lay-up, carbon on maple cores. Slalom board, concave edges to hold the feet, slight s-camber. I'm going to run a light fabric 0 and 90 degrees, and a heavy one +45/-45, on each side. it should come out pretty stiff, and much stiffer torsionally than commercial offerings. Not too many of the comercial boards have much carbon, its 90% glass with carbon window dressings. Deep drum sanded wheel wells before the carbon, full body shape. I'm just about finished with a set of 90mm Randals for this board, with spherical bearing pivots. Should be good for tight slalom, even if I'm not. I'll post my progress with Hugh if the photos come out OK. If it is good I'll be making a larger version later.
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On 7/11/2004
bundego spodequcomba
wrote in from
(69.104.nnn.nnn)
wuz up dude on the high side
I heard it through the grape vine
How much longer till you'll be mine
wwwhhhooo I heard it through the gggrrraaapppeee vine
plus eggnog on the wild side YO!
sincerely,
me and the wonderfull himmmm
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On 7/10/2004
Ted
wrote in from
(24.165.nnn.nnn)
This surform is amazing to use for the edges of the deck to rough out the shape. We used a bunch of them in our last two classes here in Maui with great success. Fast and easy to use. Seems to hold an edge unlike rasps.
I like the griptape idea. We use 80 grit belt sandpaper (the kind for a beltsander) ripped into strips. This works great for rough sanding the edge.
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On 7/10/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
滑らかな端快適な巡航。 Smooth edge comfortable cruise....
...as it is in the japanese way.
domo arigato
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On 7/9/2004
crash
wrote in from
(220.96.nnn.nnn)
Thanks to all for your ideas on rounding over the edges on homemade boards. I took a combination of everyones advice. I checked out palm sanders. The cheapest one I could find was $75 (converted from yen). For that much I could make 6 whole boards with grip! So what I did was use a 40 grit sanding disk on my disk grinder to knock off the edges. This was almost a disaster as the grinder is a bit heavy to use one handed and get fine control. It worked and it set me up for the next step which was to use leftover griptape stuck to a sanding block to finish the rounding. Perfect! It has the look of a store bought board. Once again thanks to all.
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