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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 10/13/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
my trucks, i noticed that i had an unused set,with the dual micro bearings in the pivot area ,an 8mm post comes out of the hanger, this set up could very quickly be switched over to a spherical bearing , i think my base is bored to 5/8, so i think the outside part of the spherical bearing will lide right in and the pinch bolts in the base wil snug it up, no epoxy needed.These trucks were unfinnished , no kingpins. Anyway i decided on how to make the kingpins, no more steel here. Superlight and strong 7075,drilled out real hollow,the .75 side is clamped in the baseplate and the 3/8 side will be clamped in a very light trick aluminum version of the old gullwing bracket,not just an interlock but a solid clamped support that bolts onto the baseplate near the pivot.ok , to adjust my truck, you loosen the pinch bolt in the baseplate that clamps that end of the kingpin,and you loosen the bolt in the kingpin support bracket(that clamps that end) then you tighten the bolt that screws into the thin end of the kingpin, this pulls the thick end of the kingpin against the bushings and tightens the tension, while staying centered on the pivot. Tightening the pinch bolts locks the kingpin in place with the new tension on the bushings. I'll post the finnished weight of my trucks, they're gonna be way way light.
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On 10/13/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
i'm not sure how to put it into a few readable words,but;imagine a tank treadm,the point where they pivot,is the drop,the areas between all the parts is filled, the drops could thicker,or sections of birch ply as gussetsm, running next to the trucks shaped to clear the hangers. Imagine the drop contour of the board cut out of 3/4 inch birch,positioned on either side if the trucks,then strips of ash,poplar, spruce filling in between the beams and forming a standing platform.
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On 10/12/2004
yan0
wrote in from
United States
(140.233.nnn.nnn)
it could be because I am stuck in a computer lab at two in the morning, and my head is full java code that refuses to work... but. As far as the interlocking vlam with a dropped cg board, It would seem that when you interlocked the curved part with the main deck, you would loose a great deal of strength (I am assuming thatyou are thinking of using a dove tail or vgroove cut.). The grain would still be running along the board, rather than up the curve, so that any stress put on the trucks will pull the grain apart, splitting the wood. You would have the same problem if you took a peice of maple,ash, birch, what have you and cut out the dropped cg pattern, then vlammed it, the place were you need the grain to flolow the contour the most, it dosent.
adding carbon rods and or dowels would help, I just dont know if it would keep the board from splitting.
That said, it could just be me.
yan0
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On 10/12/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
hey Svarteld, you could do a v lam, but intsead of bending ,just interlock the strips with beveled cuts,sharp corners. If you drill accurately you could pin the whole thing together at the corners with carbon tubing or maple dowel pins. My next board will have a center strip of 1/2 inch birch multiply,with grooves and interlocking baseplates; split bases,one holds a spherical bearing, one clamps a piece of 3/4 inch 7075 aluminum with a kingpin pressed in place. Yes folks ,integrated baseplates ,probabely 40 degree.
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On 10/12/2004
yan0
wrote in from
United States
(140.233.nnn.nnn)
Ghram,
thanks, I am going to try to find a good way to tack together 1/16 plys efficently, the wood is a bit too thin for clamps, so I am thinking of using packing tape on both sides to hold everything together until the glue sets. we will see.
Svarteld,
As far as making a lighter dropped CG board. You seem to know what you are doing, but here is what I think I am gonna do. I am planning on cooking one up this weekend (I already wet pressed the plys long ago) with four layers of 3ply birch. Then I am going to grab a bunch of uni directional carbon (I couldnt find any wider than 3".. but it works out) and beef up the torsional stability of the nose and tail by laying the carbon in at +/-45. I should have enought extra to run a strip or two right down the center of the board, from truck to truck. The only problem is with all that expoxy I am using to laminate the carbon, my board could come out heavier than those (incredible looking) boards you are cooking up. I think I am going to finish it off by putting some 2x2 twill carbon over al the uni, I will let you know how it turns out. I like the idea with the foam though.. I might have to give it a go with a simple speed board.
Yan0
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On 10/12/2004
Brad
wrote in from
United States
(64.136.nnn.nnn)
Svarteld,
Birch, as we have seen, is probably too soft for reducing plies. Oak is very hard, and has a course grain...might be difficult to bend, almost impossible to sand REAL smooth, and has a nasty tendency of producing visious slivers. Ash is also a very hard wood, may be difficult to work with. Cherry is great for inlays, as is Mohagany...expensive. No clue on Beech.Which leaves Maple. I don't know what kind of maple your supplier has, but it's probably your best bet. Can you get very small quantities of each wood you're interested in and experiment?
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On 10/12/2004
Brad
wrote in from
United States
(64.136.nnn.nnn)
Svarteld,
Birch, as we have seen, is probably too soft for reducing plies. Oak is very hard, and has a course grain...might be difficult to bend, amost impossible to sand REAL smooth, and has a nasty tendency of producing visious slivers. Ash is also a very hard wood, may be difficult to work with. Cherry is great for inlays, as is Mohagany...expensive. No clue on Beech.Which leaves Maple. I don't know what kind of maple your supplier has, but it's probably your best bet. Can you get very small quantities of each wood you're interested in and experiment?
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On 10/11/2004
justin
wrote in from
Canada
(216.232.nnn.nnn)
hi guys. i was wondering if you guys knew any sites which have tutorials on how to build a deck (me and my dad, will be building a steam box and a vacuum press) so advanced or beginner, just to give me some visual aid. the only things i really need to know are the plies(SP?), what kinda glue should i use, and for a how to on fibreglassing. thanks!
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On 10/11/2004
graham
wrote in from
Canada
(24.80.nnn.nnn)
yano,
for torsional stiffness, and structural soundness of your board you'll have to cross grain your wood, otherwise if you get a small crack it can travel the whole length of your board.
If you are going to cross grain, you can either buy large sheets of veneer (which tend to be expensive) and simply cross grain using a cross cut- sheet, or you can piece together length-wise veneers like you talked about. Yes, you can ruin an entire board if overlap occurs. I wouldn't worry about small seperations in the cross grained layers. The glue will fill the space, and there shouldn't be any structural problems with just a small gap.
Companies do the exact same thing, except when they buy wood from a factory in large quantities you can order cross-grained wood cuts that are pre-glued together and ensure that there are no wood gaps and that overlap doesn't happen when the boards get pressed.
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On 10/11/2004
Svarteld
wrote in from
Sweden
(213.64.nnn.nnn)
Happy birthday herbn,
Nice way of celebrate that day - I'd like to see my mom do that on her next birthday :-) Or maybe not...
Anyway, I've found a supplier of veeners, and hoping to get some advice here to pick some wood to start out - I don't know much about wood. The supplier seems pretty serious, this is some of the stuff they sell in veeners:
Ash, Fraxinus excelsior
Birch, Betula alba
Beech, Fagus silvatica
Oak, Quercus
Cherry, Prunus avium or Prunus cerasus
Maple, Acer platanoides
I've seen boards built of birch, maple and oak. I won't do v-lam for a while, just horisontal laminates glued with epoxi, probably with more layers along the board than across. I want to start out making a light but stiff speedboard first, getting the weight down on my damped constructions, since they carry some extra mechanic weight. Would like to shave off at least 500 g of my normal 15 mm birch ply sandwich board, but keep the non-flexing, torsional rigid behaviour. I also still need to make sharp bends, like in my previous post.
Any ideas of what to pick?
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On 10/11/2004
Matt
wrote in from
Bulgaria
(69.112.nnn.nnn)
Hey guys,
Got a question for you who know more than I.
I have a Bahne black hill, it's really too soft for me but I like it. I was wondering if anyone knows of a product or some laminate that I could slap on the top to stiffen it and give it some extra burst. I'm hoping for something akin to what is on a fiberflex top and bottom, preferably self-sticking. I'm usually a do-it-yourselfer, but I don't have the time to do a fiberglass sheet on it, nor the money to have anyone else do it right now.
One 1/16" layer on the top would make it perfect for a GS hybrid, right now I ride over the trucks to keep away from the bounciness. I don't want to dump it because it has good life in the pumps. Any suggestions or tips on what will do or where to go? Is formica a dead product for this (i.e. no spring to it)?
Yours Truly,
Not from Bulgaria
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On 10/11/2004
rob
wrote in from
United States
(64.175.nnn.nnn)
i've got a doublekick blank thatI've allready shaped and i want to cover the bottom with formica. Any tips on getting even pressure all round would be nice.my plan was to use a lot of c-clamps and a lot of 1/4 ply strips.
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On 10/10/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
some crazy swedish stuff going on , those swedes(svarteld) are doing some interesting things. I just got back from my birthday run, matched my age in mph on a nice big long 1.5 mile(n.j standards) harrimann state park hill. It's been a while my ight ankle got a soft from a sciatic injury but it's been rehabing pretty good,but just thinking that your ankle might let you wobble where you never did before(and don't ever want to!)is a bit unnerving but things felt fine. I was talking with my brother (pace car driver)my boards are not speed boards,so much as ultimate carve boards,low geometry 45 degree trucks, i took my gumballs just over the edge a couple times and stayed up. Hard steering right on the edge , i think i know what people ment about the abec green urithanes being a little less forgiving than the old cloudy grey stuff,hhmmmm ,those where flywheels too,different lip. Got me thinking , maybe a set of 40 degree trucks would be a nice project for this kind of riding,i don't need 35 degrees ,i found my randals a bit boring,though i might revisit that board. Actually even dropped randals feel primative (high) to me unless you go to svarteld extremes ,he seems to be on level with the roll center of his trucks, an interesting idea. I've found that when certain things line up there are some benefits,on my trucks the axle would go through the king pin and the turning axis.
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On 10/10/2004
Svarteld
wrote in from
Sweden
(213.64.nnn.nnn)
The torsionally damped Öhlin/Randal DH truck is starting to take shape, along with the no-rear-steer deck. Did some work on them this weekend - there's more to it, but I'll post some (crappy mobile phone) pictures anyhow, if anyone is curious.
The frame holding the damper and truck together will need some more work, but the measurements, angles and fastenings are finished. I've made two interchangeable linkages - one for 8 mm axles, and one for 10 mm. This axle will be stepped down from 10 to 8 mm just inside the wheel bearing, so the linkage will grip the fatter 10 mm portion. Axles will be tool replacable for different wheels, keeping the width constant - Flywheel axles will have a longer 10 mm portion than Gumball axles.
The board got the smallest radiused bends I've made so far, bending in very sharp angles, but seems to hold together well. Flex is almost stiff but noticable, similar to Chaput's Big Red X. Rear angle is 35 degrees, taking out all steering in the (reverse mounted) rear truck, and front gets the DH bases up to 45 degrees. Wheelbase will be 81 cm with space left for the damper, or 76 cm when used with a regular DH truck. Geometry will still be slow, for speed - identical to standing very near the nose on something with the double wheelbase and two 45 degree trucks.
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On 10/7/2004
Hunter
wrote in from
United States
(68.112.nnn.nnn)
Skateboard testing 2004 has started. Check out my website. www.boardtesting.com This year I have decks from all around the world and some handmade one at a time decks in the test. Roarockit: Manufactured in Canada, Designed and tested in Maui Hawaii. They sell kits to do-it yourselfers. Here is their website. http://www.roarockit.com/
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On 10/6/2004 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
commercialy supplied crossgrain maple is tacked together by the manuf. before it is shipped to the deck maker. All the pieces are usually around 10-12" wide by whatever length ordered; the crossgrains are fastened together with what appears to be a very thin tape of some kind to make up the length. That keeps it from sliding apart. Small pieces of tape are also commonly used in composites to prevent sliding, and become part of the laminate with no harm.
Virtually any plywood has an alternating pattern of long and crossgrain, from simple alternating (odd number of layers to keep both outsides long grain), to more complex patterns such as l-l-c-l-c-l-l etc. etc. Often there are a few more long grains than cross to get stiffness up.
Went to the thrift store today and saw a Danish-made coffee table, almost bought it for a table but on the way home, began thinking that a 52" by 24" piece of v-lam teak is a pretty interesting slice of wood to have, especially for $20. Straight-ass grain and highly selected for quality, and about 5/8" thick give or take. it would make a great start for a laid-back cruiser board, which I lack, especially with some contrasting stringers laid into dado-cut slots. I'm talkin' about conventional trucks and 70mm wheels, maybe wells but no cut-outs nose-walking deck bare feet kinda groove
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On 10/6/2004
Yan0
wrote in from
United States
(140.233.nnn.nnn)
All of the talk about wood types alittle bit ago got me thinking.. All of my boads have been Baltic B. It seems to work great, but you never really know until you try something else. I am planning a vlam with ash, and then some Maple veneer on top.. but I want to try an all maple board as well. The problem I am running into conceptually is how to get the crossgrain peices in there. It would seem like if you laid them in when laminating, they would seperate a bit, or slide over one another, making the whole laminte a loss. Do those of you who use maple veneer just laminate with the grain going in one direction, and then worry about torsional stability later or.. and do you have any idea how the big companies do it?
Many thanks
Yan0
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On 10/5/2004
Svarteld
wrote in from
Sweden
(213.64.nnn.nnn)
Thanks hc :-)
The buzzbox is made for mounting on top of the steering head of a motocross bike - roadracing bikes normally use the linear tube damper design instead. I'll try something like this:
It's just laid out on the board. The linkage will probably grip a 10 mm axle instead of 8 mm, since I'll probably cut some of the hanger off to make space, so for about a cm the axle will have to manage without support of aluminium. But, it will be surrounded by the steel ball in this area instead, loaded with force sideways from support of the hanger, and a hanger-thick spacer between the damper fastening and the bearing. An alternative is to build a brace onto the alu on the hanger, but I'll try this first. Linkage will sit at 90 degrees going straight, not as in lousy picture.
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On 10/4/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
that's f'n hilarious
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On 10/4/2004
Svarteld
wrote in from
Sweden
(213.64.nnn.nnn)
herbn,
Oh no, my fake has been discovered! It's actually just a retouched a buzzbox, not a damper. I'm planning to mount a big fat Peavey on my board, and scare the competition off the track in my next race, playing metal riffs on a flying V while passing.
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On 10/3/2004
hc
wrote in from
United States
(68.127.nnn.nnn)
Svarteld, being looking at your stuff, very cool, great workmanship.
Regarding desteering, it seems like the landyachtz R3 was the only speed board out there utilizing less than 35 deg angles. It had a very low deck height that rotates around the roll axis. Very sluggish turning. I had one, but was not a big fan of this design.
I think the holy grail of truck design is to have manueverability at low speeds and stablity at high speeds. One way to approach it is with dampner.
I haven't seen many examples of dampner. Yours looked interesting.
Here is one done for a skeleton luge.
http://www.geocities.com/sk8sanjose/revoluge.jpg
also, I mentioned before a mt bike dampner (rotational) called hoppey.
The ohlin dampner you have is originally for what?
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On 10/3/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
i think chaput was using a dh hanger on a r2 base droped through probabely,but compared to our boards just mounting a r2 on top of the deck is not all that low. It'll be interesting to see your completed project , that pic just show a couple of ajustment knobs, or buttons. could be a effects pedal for your guitar,but i believe you , that its some sort of damper;)
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On 10/2/2004
Svarteld
wrote in from
Sweden
(213.64.nnn.nnn)
herbn,
Interesting. Did it have a long length? Or high? RII-type geometry?
The no-rear-steer deck came out of the press yesterday, looking fine. Before I drill it I need to finish another project though, to know where to drill to make space for it - a unit, consisting of some parts mounted together in a frame: a modified DH truck, a small torsion damper, and a speedo.
The frame will mount to the board with standard truck hardware, standard old-school drilling, to make it possible to switch it between boards pretty quick, to evaluate it on different settings - can't afford to build more than one unit, since the torsional damper is expensive, it's a Öhlins unit - a Swedish company, making high-end suspension systems for racing. It can separate fast and slow movments of deck tilt and dampen them differenty, and can also be set to only dampen in the middle - when going straight. Will be exciting to see if it can do any good on longboards.
The truck will have 1,5" bushings, ball joint pivot, ball joint kingpin, a small alignment bushing near the pivot, and 8 mm axles with extra length to be able to run both gumballs and flywheels with the same outer with, regardless wheel choice.
Nothing will portrude (in contrast to the previous linear dampers Ive used) - everything will be mounted around the truck area between and slightly behind the wheels, protected from impact (and to protect others when I crash :-))
I'll mount the unit up front - damping won't do much in rear, since there's no steering there anyway. I'm pretty excited of this project, guess you can tell. I'll get back with some pictures when I'm closer to completing it. Anyone who have thoughts about all this?
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On 10/2/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
I can't find chris chaputs's post on his taller steeper turning board ,that did well in a race because he didn't have to lien as far to make a turn. This was definitely a factor in that infamous computer software that was used to make the original seismics,besides marketing stuff like making them work with the majority of the wheel/board sizes, this is actually a valid function for us,longboarders. If you could imagine a center line through your body while making a turn, this line would go through your center of gravity and hit the ground at some point, if that point is in the middle of the contact patches of your wheels, you'll get the most traction out of any wheels. A set of trucks that turns to quickly will make it hard to lien far enough and your weight will try to pitch,a shallow truck would make you lien to far and slde out. A shallow truck is easier to control, thing don't change as quickly so wheels will feel more secure(less drifting) and problems(misjudgments) may be a little easier to correct. THe fact that megadollar,very techical software,came up with 45 degrees,is just a forehead slapping conclusion,"of course,liening and steering are equal".The proper amount of rake(offset) is just a couple of ballpark prototypes away,but a fancy program is better for marketing.I still wish for randal to make a low 45 degree version of the r2.For my next homemade trucks,I may squeeze one of those ball joints into a piece of urithane tubing and make a baseplate that holds all that firmly.
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On 10/1/2004
Svarteld
wrote in from
Sweden
(213.64.nnn.nnn)
Doh! Wrong pucture. Here's the fat one:
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