|
|
|
| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
|
| Topic |
Home Made Boards |
|
Roarockit Kits
|
|
On 1/18/2005
Jack Merica
wrote in from
United States
(192.35.nnn.nnn)
Has anybody here tried these Roarockit TAP kits? They look kind of interesting.
|
|
|
|
|
my poplar /glass laminate
|
|
On 1/16/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
it's kjust about done,it was way to stiff out of thje mold but i sanded the hell out of it, beveled and rounded every thing. i think i'm gonna put in railgrabs and maybe a center groove, i have to make the plastic parts that act as the pattern and press for laminating glass or carbon into the cavitys. The board feels real nice to rail grab,i know that's not an efficient tuck but, it just feels so good sometimes to tuck into a little ball, knees bone touching the,,collarbone....
|
|
|
|
|
wheel wells
|
|
On 1/15/2005
roboto pdx
wrote in from
United States
(24.20.nnn.nnn)
A router with a good work bench works as well without all the time of sanding.
just set up a template with the depth that you want the wheel well to be. Then use a following router bit that has about 4" flutes. The set up can take a while but the results are great and consistant.
|
|
|
|
|
heat-curing epoxies
|
|
On 1/14/2005 tom t
wrote in from
Canada
(64.228.nnn.nnn)
Duane...you mentioned heat-curing epoxies...that sounds like what Insect is using. A 4:1 ratio and heat-cured. I'd sure like to know where to get it. Got a brand name?
|
|
|
|
|
duane's right
|
|
On 1/14/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
ditto,for all of that stuff. plus i usually just blend my wheel wells real big sort of like Wes,,er Mr Humpston...actually his big wheel wells end rather abruptly which lowers weight more,i like to blend my wheel wells smoothly into the boards full thickness,with a bit of a bevel down the sides also kind of like wes's boards. All that blending and one of a kind attention to sanding is just that, one of a kind,well sanded production boards would cost more at the production level,which gets magnified by each distributor. If you sand your boards and you want them finnished to have to refinnish the board.
|
|
|
|
|
Wheel wells
|
|
On 1/14/2005 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
I do mine freehand with a belt sander, if it is a ply board you can see the plies to judge depth, if not I make a little template to draw the outline, and a line parallel to, and centered on, the wheel as it would strike the board, then flip it over to mark the other side exactly the same.
To determine where the wells should go, put on risers as you would really use, and the wheels and trucks as well, put on some marshmallow bushings and see how the truck will move to let the wheels strike the board. If you hold the belt sander end drum just as the wheel would be, such that a line through the axis of rotation would go right through the center of the bushing seats, then you will have the angle of the wheel well correct.
Bad wheel wells are a pet peeve of mine, most production boards have poor or useless wells, so I recut most of those rather than adding excessive risers.
|
|
|
|
|
wheel wells
|
|
On 1/13/2005 dave
wrote in from
United States
(206.165.nnn.nnn)
Does anyone know how they cut those wheel wells
so perfectly into the decks? I know they must used a
belt or drum sander. but how to get them so exact?
|
|
|
|
|
Stell
|
|
On 1/12/2005 Chief Red Beef
wrote in from
United States
(24.185.nnn.nnn)
Hey Richie...
Sounds like Bob, aka Peter is makeing the ultimate "Streetboard".
A real "pole sign skateboard".
Hey PeterBob, what sign did you use?
I saw one the other day that said HUMP.
That would make a nice board.
I also saw one a while back that said UNDERPASS. Only someone had crossed out the first S and replaced it with NT so that it read UNDERPANTS. That would also make a cool skateboard.
|
|
|
|
|
Street Decks
|
|
On 1/11/2005 Richie Lee
wrote in from
United States
(67.106.nnn.nnn)
Does anyone know how to make street decks? Im trying to make my own but i need to know acouple of things. How thick the veneers need to be. What kind of glue to use and what kind of sealents do i use on it? Any information is good.
|
|
|
|
|
baseplates done
|
|
On 1/10/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
and they are REALLY really cool. The pivot side is raised a bit,like randal race trucks, the sort of flat geometry wouldn't leave room for bushings if i made them close to the board, or i might have to do a drop through for the bushing side of the baseplate(s). Now ,i was eye'n it up ,i have to have the axle very close to the pivot,the bushings will be ,by a small amount,on the opposite side of the axle. This is kind of like a conventional truck, but the aliegnment between the kingpin and the pivot will be 90 degrees. What will the bolt pattern be? I have a standard 1.625 width, though the board and the baseplates will be interlocked with 8mm aluminum posts with regular hardware though the middle. The length of the hole pattern will follow this function;if i mount the pivot ends to the board and make the hangers with extra length of 8mm cromoly as the pivot,i'll slide the hanger into the pivot bearing to the point where my ride height is what i'm used to (about 40mm),make the right spacer/washer, then mount up the bushings onto the hanger with the kingpin and the post that holds the kingpin. AT this point the inner part of the baseplate will just slide onto the post(when turned) and find it's own place on the board,all i gotta do is mark it and drill it. By the way i'm planning on making the center beam of the board first,drilling it with a milling machine, and test mounting the trucks. Then it comes apart and gets glued into the middle of a nice v-lam pintail, carbon wrapped foam filled sections are nearly definite.
|
|
|
|
|
how to spell stell
|
|
On 1/10/2005
Julien
wrote in from
United States
(69.104.nnn.nnn)
I'm thinking that stell is a nifty way of writing steel (for those of us who write bass ackwards, lime ke)
Sounds kinda interesting tho. I'm not sure how well the board will keep its shape if it's just metal tho and the thickness of a street sign.
Let us know how it turns out though
|
|
|
|
|
australian bob
|
|
On 1/8/2005 tom t
wrote in from
Canada
(64.228.nnn.nnn)
Bob...what is "stell"? Some kind of composite? Hope you test it for strength before any high speed runs! Let us know how it turns out.
|
|
|
|
|
herbn trucks
|
|
On 1/8/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
during a break from machining, i was staring at the roughed out baseplate parts and i came real close to making them into an integrated adjustable geometry truck. Meaning the baseplates would be part of the deck. The bushing end ,inter locking with a pair of metal strips(tougue and groove,sort of) and having the possibility of sliding for and aft. The pivot part of the base ,would bolt into the beams and possibly pivot to different geometrys. A variable length kingpin section would connect things up. The possibility of things sliding around sort of stopped me from going in that direction, it would also be alot more work. I think i just want to make a very pretty long highspeed pintail,with split base inlaid speed trucks Time to go to the shop.
|
|
|
|
|
a made pole sign skateboared
|
|
On 1/8/2005
bob
wrote in from
Australia
(220.236.nnn.nnn)
Hi my name is Peter.
i have got my own skateboard but i need anew deck so i am taking down a street sign and putting my wheels on it so my deck will be made of stell.
From Peter
|
|
|
|
|
fiber piles
|
|
On 1/7/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
So what were bahnes,brewers,hobies et al,pultruded ,at least that what they were called.... I have a new baseplate/truck project,i gotta finnish the deck for the last set but i'm jump'n ahead,it's almost done anyway. My poplar /glass board came out stiffer than i thought it might,so i gotta bevel it off and maybe route some pockets. But the new trucks; ah yes, 40 degree's or so, i angled them by eye,starting with a 45 degree bevel off a router bit they are steeper than a randal dh. Split base, each half has a standard two holes in it BUT they are(will be, tommorrow) 8mm holes and the board will have 8mm posts, with counterbored heads, sticking out of it. The baseplates slide over the posts,maybe with some o rings, and then regular hardware with aircraft nuts and some special shouldered washers go through the posts to hold things tight. 2 Microbearings ifor the hanger to pivot on, this is gonna be a nice rig to start spring with.
|
|
|
|
|
duane
|
|
On 1/7/2005 tom t
wrote in from
Canada
(142.20.nnn.nnn)
That sounds like important information, Duane. Thanks for taking time to write in and answer all my silly questions! Another Q: Anyone tried Aluflex? How does it feel/perform compared to glass?
|
|
|
|
|
that's different
|
|
On 1/7/2005 duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
hmm fiber pile sounds like it might be just that... a pile
pultrusion is not disorderly, it is completely ordered, the carbon rod is pultruded; the disordered stuff is chopped glass fibers, not so good.
|
|
|
|
|
fiber pile
|
|
On 1/7/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
i've seen those parts, they actually look like (wood)flakeboard,but carbon. New Campy cranks and some stems and seatposts,seemed like an italian company thing but possibly sourced out of china. FIbers going in all random directions, but much longer fibers and not as disorganized as pultrusion. Pultrusion seems like adding epoxy to insulation and pressing it, fiberpile is like scraps of carbon sheet,it might be leftovers from "important" layups,like forks and frames,where fiber orientation is important and excess is trimmed.
|
|
|
|
|
epoxy and glass
|
|
On 1/7/2005 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
Glass has a few major types, S glass and E glass. The S glass is stronger so that is usually what you see in better composites.
Epoxy varies wildly, the strongest tend to be heat-set as the molecular weight is driven to a higher degree, and the amount of low molecular weight "crap" is much reduced. Similarly, thicker (higher viscosity) resins will tend to have a strength advantage, all other things being equal. Room temp. curing epoxy, in my opinion, is marginal for carbon skateboards as it tends to soften too much in heat, so I do not use it, vinyl ester is better for this property. Heat cured epoxy has almost 100 degrees more heat resistance and has no problems.
If you are using room temp cure, look into post-cure temperature data from the manufacturer, it is always a good idea.
Thinner resins are easy to work with and penetrate well, but the thick resins really are much stronger, especially on impact. Prepreg is very thick resin, prefectly applied under very high pressure, so is amazing stuff. The truly ethereal light carbon lay-ups with prepreg really are amazing, it is fun stuff and really not too hard to use.
There are also grades of carbon, but the stuff as seen in F1 cars and military uses is so expensive you might as well forget it, like $350 a pound.
|
|
|
|
|
fiber pile ?
|
|
On 1/7/2005 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
this I assume is pultruded fiber. That is made by taking long, continuous glass or carbon off of rolls, and coating it under pressure as it is pulled through a die. Flat sheets as well as profiles can be made. Things that need strength in only one direction are made this way (tubes, rods, straps).
The original G&S Fibreflex was made with two sheets of pre-made pultruded glass sheets (Bowtuff) bonded to a piece of plywood, so it has definitely been done.
The problem is that costs are high, the pultruded stuff is damn expensive. Similar results can be achieved by laminating layers of unidirectional carbon or glass. Besides, most bords would need something cross-directional to stiffen up torsion. Also recall that the G&S boards were relatively fragile.
Now, using some profiles to make ribs sounds pretty interesting, especially if you capped it with a layer of cloth to tie it all together.
|
|
|
|
|
fiber pile
|
|
On 1/6/2005
Roboto PDX
wrote in from
United States
(67.42.nnn.nnn)
Has anyone built boards with fiber pile either glass or carbon? I am thinking of using some for ribs running the length of a board. I am wondering if there are any tricks in the layup. The carbon pile products that I have seen, (Road bike parts)it looks like a solid piece of material when done. Not like fiber mat.. Will I need a pressure mold?
|
|
|
|
|
epoxies, glass
|
|
On 1/5/2005 tom t
wrote in from
Canada
(64.228.nnn.nnn)
Aside from weave patterns and weights, is glass all the same? And aside from mixing ratios, are epoxies all the same or are there different kinds?
|
|
|
|
|
West systems epoxy
|
|
On 1/5/2005
jimz
wrote in from
Canada
(24.71.nnn.nnn)
Born and bred Canadian!
I was in Montreal for the longest time and now I'm living in Rossland, BC skibumimg here -> www.redresort.com
Ride on!
West systems epoxy is a high end epoxy suitable for laminating, just to keep er related.
Jim
|
|
|
|
|
jimz
|
|
On 1/5/2005 tom t
wrote in from
Canada
(64.228.nnn.nnn)
Hey JimZ!
I see you're from Canada, Eh? Me Too, Eh? O.K. Enough. Dude, just wondering where you're at? I'm in T.O. Soon beginning my next board(s). Keep in touch, yo.
Tom T
|
|
|
|
|
