Jason Mitchell, Seismic Nationals 2007, Hybrid Slalom.  Photo by Greg Fadell Northern California Downhill Skateboarding Association
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Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
Topic Home Made Boards
Here is your help and i need some
On 5/10/2005 bender wrote in from United States  (68.99.nnn.nnn)

Hey guys.....whom ever is below me needs to not take offense to the wit'l joke...I'll help you anyway.... Just go look for some A/A or A/B/A grade 11 or 13 ply baltic birch at a furniture or lumber shop.....make a template and work the basics from that.

Making my speedboard
I am going to sandwhich heavy 6 oz fiberglass between two 3 ply panels and put 1 or 2 oz glass on the top and bottoms ........ I weigh 125 and like almost no flex for my speedboards.......what resin should I use? just to clear things up its going to be glass top / 3ply / heavyglass / 3ply / glass bottom

 
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BOARD
On 5/9/2005 LMONEY wrote in from Canada  (161.184.nnn.nnn)

I don't have all that "time" you quote. I work, and I work hard. I have little funds because my wife is in college, i bought a new house and a new truck for myself and a car for the old lady.

Now falling a tree would be great fun and all but im not about the carve a deck outta a log.

My gramps is a jack of all-trades when it comes to wood work very one should know that if they have a grandfather (maybe even an older uncle) in the trade.

And anyone even in any trade that is. Does a plummber just work on toilets? do carpenters only erect houses/buildings?

yes i know my question was quite general in away. I mentioned the decks i have ridden and asked how to construct such a thing, and i was hoping people would give me some great adivce or answers. Not ripping in on me and assuming i have alot of time with a thumb in my corn hole.

Or prehaps a person on this forum acctually builds beyond hobbie, builds for a living and would give some great industry level tips and tricks away.

i don't have the time for to much trial and error, sorry i don't.

A couple of great people have already emailed me with some great ideas and links to build sites and to them iam greatful and i thank them.

peace



 
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l money's board
On 5/9/2005 herbn wrote in from United States  (152.163.nnn.nnn)

your question is way general, there is no one way to make a board,even gramps as a soarce of lots of wood,does he run a cabinet making supply or live at the edge of a forrest? no money, usually means you have lots of time,chop down a nice oak and start witl'n.

 
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Balsa
On 5/9/2005 Yan0 wrote in from United States  (140.233.nnn.nnn)

Looking for a good place to get ahold of some balsa... and a few questions.
I am looking for end grain right? (which means the gran runs top to bottom, not side to side like a normal board?) I want to avoid scrim backed right?? If I can only get ahold of scrim backed stuff do I just want to get blocks of balsa and make my own end grain planks?
Roll on
yan0

 
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first bourne
On 5/9/2005 shapeshifter wrote in from United States  (198.160.nnn.nnn)

if i were in your shoes i would think about what tomt said...

...go solid and ply yer gdad fer some woodworking knowledge. you just may be surprised at how ingenuitive he might be. do a search on "solid wood" in this forum and come back here for any suggestions you can't find answers to at different stages of the game.

 
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Any one help me build a deck?
On 5/8/2005 LMONEY wrote in from Canada  (161.184.nnn.nnn)

Hey everyone,

I have recently started longboarding and very interested in making a deck! i was wondering about construction, what wood? glue? how to make the concave ect.
My friend has a Big Fish from Motionlongboards and his little bro has a nicotino again from motion (www.motionlongboards.com). Both great boards! and i would like to make one or the other. Both are pretty much classic shapes, i just wanna know how to make'em. Since i have rid both i would like to make one. I have limited amount of money (nill) but a huge access to wood(my gramps). Could anyone help me???

PLEASE!! Please email me with any advice!

I love bombing carving slideing

 
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thinkin' about....
On 5/8/2005 shapeshifter wrote in from United States  (24.148.nnn.nnn)

thinkin' about. we just figgerd out a way to mold pretty much any standard truck into a deck, this really simplifies the choices... what do you know?

 
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big beef
On 5/8/2005 shapeshifter wrote in from United States  (24.148.nnn.nnn)

don't get it wrong chief my shop's got lots'a ventilation...
...i just like to get close to the product...
...and sometimes a man's gotta breathe so don't i huff ta too?

besides jus thinkin' of the stuff makes me high.

 
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Buzzkill
On 5/7/2005 Chief Red Beef wrote in from United States  (24.185.nnn.nnn)

Yo, herb.
My guess is that you don't have much of a ventilation system in your workshop.

You should talk to "Shapeshifter" and find out if you both can get a two for one special and finally get rid of those "pesky" fumes.



 
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1/2 inch baltic
On 5/6/2005 herbn wrote in from United States  (152.163.nnn.nnn)

i have some ready to go, i think my new template might be more than 30 it's pretty flexy in 5/8 all beveled and with sunk in trucks. I was thinking the other day, about how cool it is that boards get flexier with sunk in trucks,i've tried to ride boards unsunkin and can't deal with it,so i get the before and after feel. the flex is added at the ends and most of the flex is in the middle,, so it seems like it works to even out the flex pattern. My 1/2 inch will be grooved for inlayed stingers/beams that will be on either side of the trucks and won't stick out very far, and have carbon laminate tucked under the beams,i'll probabely still inlay the bases, but just a bit,my boards are really thin under the bases,maybe 5/16, with no problems,i had my 300+ pound friend stand on my board, it flexed way to much, but didn't crack or stress.

 
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critical mass
On 5/6/2005 tomt wrote in from Canada  (64.228.nnn.nnn)

Those are great pics you guys...nice decks!


Just a quiet observation...for the pure fun of building lots of decks, a simple flat half-inch baltic birch board is great at wheelbases below 30".

 
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my stingered with carbon rod ,board
On 5/5/2005 herbn wrote in from United States  (205.188.nnn.nnn)

was on e bay , a while ago ,no body bought it i think i had it on for 250 with custom machined hangers that lower a set of r2's quite a bit, i used r2 bases and some vintage minimally worn abec 11 flywheels. The board is sooo stable at speed and carves real nice too, it's my past but it's still at least current if not a bit ahead of the times,8mm no play sliding axles, long none loosening internal bolts to hold the wheels on,powell bushings,ninja bearings, a fresh layer of shinny epoxy on the board and new grip.

 
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carbon stingers
On 5/5/2005 herbn wrote in from United States  (205.188.nnn.nnn)

for a flat dh carver you should press the core and drill holes, trace the template, then groove the deck surfaces. With 1/8 inch rod ,a regular table saw blade will usually cut an 1/8 inch groove, if you're not sure , try it on scrap. With the template traced , you cut and lay out the carbon rod so you don't have to cut through it while shaping your board, to cut the rod i recommend a fine tooth hacksaw and wrapping the cut area with some tape,prevents fraying the carbon rod. I didn't really keep track of how much strength was added by my carbon rods,today i might measure sag on the unshaped core before and after the rods.

 
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Fitz's balsa.carbon board
On 5/5/2005 EBasil wrote in from United States  (63.206.nnn.nnn)


Nice looking board, Fitz!! Very clean.

 
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correction
On 5/5/2005 yan0 wrote in from United States  (140.233.nnn.nnn)

That board I mentioned in the beginning of the post..... It has two ASH stringers for mounting. The rest of the board is ASPEN. (and a really thin cherry stringer runnning down the middle)...yeah.
Yan0

 
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Ash, Balsa, Carbon, Fiberglass, ideas.
On 5/5/2005 Yan0 wrote in from United States  (140.233.nnn.nnn)

Fitz, looks great!!.
I did a smilar thing with stringers and Aspen a bit ago. I just had two ash stringers running down so that the mounting holes were in the middle of them. The rest of the board was ash (including a strip between the two stringers). Didn't end up using it 'cause the fiberglass came out with huge air bubbles in it.. s#@! happens. I think there is something to the idea though..

This is what I am thinking. I just made a 52" ash board with two layers of uni between two 1/4" panels of vlammed ash. I had two layers of bixal glass on the outside. The thing is a tank, but it rides really nice. That said, reducing the weight would be ideal. Thinking Ash/maple/cherry/whatever stringers for mounting, then balsa on the inside/outside. I might even try to skin the stringers with carbon.. (herbn you have done this a couple of times.. I think. Advice?). If possible I want to try use glass as the skin for the whole schebang so you can see the stringers and whole vlammed look. Thinking maybe some uni and triaxal. Thoughts as to weather it will hold up? From what I have heard over the past year or so it seems that most people fooling around with a balsa core are skinning it with carbon... maybe because glass allows too much flex.. who knows.
....back to studying for exams. yay.
yan0

 
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sorry wrong pic
On 5/4/2005 Fitz wrote in from Australia  (203.164.nnn.nnn)

 
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re: glassing
On 5/4/2005 Fitz wrote in from Australia  (203.164.nnn.nnn)

I had a friend press a rock maple 7ply double kicker 4 me so I could mount the trucks on the kicks for a gnarly slide board. It worked great but because the deck was only 10mm thick I was worried it'd snap the way I had it setup. It would flex heaps right at the transition of the kicks.

I planned to epoxie a single layer of fibreglass to the bottom for extra support and was blown away by the increase in weight and stiffness of the board.
Alot more than I expected. Still able to bounce on it without fear of breaking.

 
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balsa deck at last
On 5/4/2005 Fitz wrote in from Australia  (203.164.nnn.nnn)

Finally finished my Balsa carbon deck.
Decided to stick with the stringer theory and went with a 70mm wide Kwila hardwood centre and butt glued the long-grain balsa rails. I wanted the deck bolts to go into the hardwood thats why the stinger is enormous. I wrapped the 3 piece (12mm thick) core with a light weight fibreglass top and bottom then shaped the profile of the deck. After about a week (atmospheric curing) I layed down the carbon on the bottom and when that hardened I routed the edges to offset the carbon from the rail. I love grabbin the rail and I hate splinters! When I was happy with the shape I glued down a layer of aircraftply ontop, 2mm thick 4ply Finnish Birch, and waited 4 days before further finishing the beveled edge and final coat of resin all over.
Board ended up being 1015mmL x 250mmW at front riding area. 695mm or 663mm between axles (drilled 2 sets of rear truck holes).
Very happy with final wieght. 1350g without griptape, however the board is very stiff under my 80Kg. I did over engineer it so I wouldn't end up with a broken deck and shattered heart, but next time I think I'll use the exact same recipe with 10mm core. Concave a definate option and well worth all the extra work for the next one.

 
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glassing
On 5/3/2005 herbn wrote in from United States  (152.163.nnn.nnn)

will add strength,stiffness, although it will be springier,to get more flex, you'd have to take out a bit of the core. Beveling the edges,works quite a bit more than you might think, sand the hell out of it,it also looks cool, to me .You could route channels,rail grabs, even on a pintail for those hardcore railgrabbing carves. Since you got the vacuum press(i gotta get one) you can glass right over any railgrabs/bevels/truck pockets, right?

 
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Fiber glassing
On 5/2/2005 Johanson wrote in from United States  (67.171.nnn.nnn)

I have a question about the benefits of fiber-glassing. I just finished making the deck for my new board... I made my own ply from hickory and purple heart and added concave in the vacuum press. Right now the board seems pretty sturdy, but idealy I would like a little more flex. I was just wondering what properties fiber-glassing the board would add to the ride. I suppose I am primarily concerned with the possibility that it will stiffen the ride to much if I add a single layer of fiber glass to one side and then use epoxy resin on the other. If there are any suggestions I would appreciate it.
Johanson

 
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UCSD Longboard Building
On 5/2/2005 EBasil wrote in from United States  (63.206.nnn.nnn)

Whoops: I've been corrected --Reg deadline for Longboard Building 101 is May 6th, not the first.

 
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San Diegans, want to Build your Own?
On 4/28/2005 EBasil wrote in from United States  (63.206.nnn.nnn)

The University of California, San Diego's Earl Warren College Student Activity Center presents "Longboard Building 101: build your own 40" pintail longboard".

-----------------
INFORMATION
-----------------

Participants will be provided all the tools, equipment, materials and guidance to each build their own 40" pintail skateboard deck, using the "Roarockit" vacuum lamination system to construct a 7-ply, maple board with your own custom graphics. Any student, regardless of past experience with woodworking or skateboarding, is ready for this class if you have a fun attitude. You do not have to be a "Warren student" to participate in this class, but you do have to be registered at UCSD.

Students will be given instruction and guidance in order to laminate, shape, sand and finish custom longboards, working in pairs. Each participant will make their own board, design their own graphics and be able to finish the class with a completed custom deck, ready for trucks and wheels. The process is easy, and by the time we are done, you will feel like an expert, even if you've never done a "craft project" before in your life!

Our class will be split into two Sections, each meeting formally 3 times. The first day of class is different for Section I and II, and days 2 & 3 will be with the sections combined. Both Sections will receive passes to attend a Preview Screening of Columbia Pictures' "Lords of Dogtown" movie, to be screened on May 17th. Each section is limited to 12 students, so register for the Section that best fits your schedule.

Cost: $50.00, payable at Registration.
Register: at Warren Student Activity Center or Warren Res Life Office.
Registration Deadline: May 1, 2005
Included: wood, glue, wood stain, instruction and use of equipment.
Not Included: griptape, trucks, wheels, etc...
Bring to class: "closed toe" shoes, one old t-shirt to be cut into rags, cheerful demeanor

Class Dates:

Section I: Wed. May 11th, 6-9pm; Sat. May 14, noon-4pm; Sat May 21, noon-2pm.

Section II: Thu. May 12th, 6-9pm; Sat. May 14, noon-4pm; Sat May 21, noon-2pm.

Both Sections: Tue. May 17: Preview Screening: Lords of Dogtown movie

All Students Invited: Sat. May 21st 4-8pm Ride and Party at Warren Student Activity Center.

----------------------------------------- -------------------------------
May 21st Ride and Party: All Students, bring your longboards!
--------------------------------------------- ---------------------------
--4pm to 8pm
--Warren College's "Longboard Party": check out custom longboards made by SAC students, vote for your favorite and ride UCSD's campus with us, or hang out and for music and activities.
--Win tickets to see the June 1st preview screening of Columbia Pictures' Lords of Dogtown!
--After the rides return, we have great food coming off SAC's new BBQ grille and we've invited a local longboard supplier to come by and offer sweet deals to get you on a new longboard, if you're ready!

 
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Quickytime
On 4/22/2005 FL wrote in from United States  (65.249.nnn.nnn)

Thanks for the info ..FL

 
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quasi-skatecars
On 4/21/2005 shapeshifter wrote in from United States  (24.148.nnn.nnn)

nice coffins there duane...

...looks like a fun race too.

 
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