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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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Jet Luge Update
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On 7/19/2005
bob
wrote in from
United States
(132.250.nnn.nnn)
IS this homemade, a hybrid skatecar, a luge, or a speeeeeeed board? Guess it don't matter, but I think I am breaking more laws than Chaput did on his 6 wheeled speedboard.
I posted a couple of video links of the turbine test runs on at the bottom of my website. feel free to download by right clicking and saving the target.
Notes:
Noone was allowed past the blue fuel tank you see in the background. And don't worry the luge was secured to the ramp and the emergency shutoff lanyard was tied was looped to a hook on the drive way. If it moved 5 inches it would have shutdown. CO2 and water extinguisher close at hand.... hey just being as careful as I can... This is an all new discovery and you can only calculate so much before it is time to play. I gave my safety speech and assigned jobs to each person and we rehearsed a couple of what if drills. I feuled it up and the following is now history.. (damn I'm sounding dramatic)
In Vid #1 the turbine smoked and flammed a little and shutdown as expected. The fuel system had not yet been primed.
In Vid #2 you see me going behind the luge to see how much fuel it burned. Hard to tell, but my buddy Jim was writing down everything I said, and when, and all that we observed. The numbers I shouted out was the Idle Temp 531 degrees C. The surprising weird sound at the end was the electric starter motor breaking during the cool down cycle. As previously trained, my son Scooter came in with the cordless leaf blower to manually cool it down.
I just UPS'ed the Turbine back to the factory for warranty repair.
Notice: The term "Jet Luge", the contents of my website, pictures, videos and the designs are copyrighted and are considered "Intellectual Property" of Blue Smoke Racing LLC and Bob Swartz. If you use or pass the pictures or videos on to someone else I expect the courtesy of a request, proper marking and a link to my site.
Thank you. If I spelled that wrong, it's because it has been a Looooong Week to get this far
Bob
Click here for link
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Glue
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On 7/17/2005 DKA
wrote in from
United States
(67.189.nnn.nnn)
Water based glue will not dry
when sealed in a vacuum.
Try 2 part epoxy.
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Dimensions
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On 7/17/2005
Ryan Dabros
wrote in from
Canada
(24.157.nnn.nnn)
Hey, i'm making my own vintage skateboard, and i was wondering what would be a good width and length. I was thinking around 5" by 23" is that good? do you have any modifications you'd like to mention.
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Glue
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On 7/17/2005
Hunter
wrote in from
United States
(24.151.nnn.nnn)
I have been working on vacuum forming a few decks with water based glue and
Gorilla Glue, they don't seem to be doing the trick. Neither glues are grabbing hold of the maple veneer layers. Any ideas about which glue to use for building a deck?
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concave
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On 7/14/2005 yan0
wrote in from
United States
(63.164.nnn.nnn)
The easiest way to put concave into your homemade is by incorporating it into the mold. This will work for any construction method that uses a layup.. ie the two (or more) pannel technique, a vlam with a fiberglass or carbon layup, and the list goes on. If you are cutting the board out of a sheet of plywood, or sollid hardwood, the best way to get it in there is by sanding and adding blocks on the outside. you can soak the board and then press it with concave, but you run the risk of warping the board. I only soak wood when I am going to re-press it with epoxy to hold it into shape, and I only soak when it is absoloutely necessary to conform to tight radiuses. Look at the toothless (www.toothless.be.tf) for simply easy to follow instructions for a basic two panel technique.
As far as the piggybacking of pressure I mentioned long ago.. Yes, it is absolutely unnecessary, but it could be freakin' cool. If I end up doing it when I get home I'll post a bit about it.
Yan0
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Concave
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On 7/13/2005
RJ
wrote in from
United States
(63.197.nnn.nnn)
I've tried to put concave into my own homemade boards several times, using several techniques, but have never found one that I truely like. What's the best way to make a board with concave.
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honey comb
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On 7/10/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
is that "real" honeycomb? or is that a cover for a florescent lighting fixture,or something like that? is that the final shape, i'll guess.truck holes seem to wander a bit,might have grazed some of the cell walls.
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not to worry...
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On 7/8/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
know exactly where yer at, i've got a new set of molds taking shape but have to drop everything and head accross the country in a couple of days. then it's off to the south pacific for a week or so then a bit more of a walkabout before coming back home again.
it's not safe where i'll be goin so i'm leavin' the wife at home. let's do touch base to see where you're at in the project upon arrival. hope you have a good trip too!
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BZZZZ
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On 7/7/2005
Greg Olsen
wrote in from
Canada
(206.172.nnn.nnn)
shapeshifter:
I have take a break for a two week holiday with my wife in Kelowna. I will think about my next steps on this while I am away. I DO INDEED have doubts about how to proceed. And yes I will send you some material if you like.
Greg
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just like royal jelly...
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On 7/7/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
...just figured that you can dilute some polycarb chips (saw dust) in methylene chloride, apply this to the contact surface of the comb then bond a thin layer of the "bullet proof" glass on it. this should give you a sweet transition from metal to plastic and you wont be hiding the hex out of it... watcha think?
hey, if you try it and this works i wouldn't mind paying you to send me one to check out.
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beeline
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On 7/7/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
nice job so far, looks like it's gonna be a plank and a tough one to skin at that. don't doubt that you have good idea of what you're doing but not sure how i would go about it. weld on an aluminum skin using ultrasonics maybe? that might be feasable but tricky. wave solder? weak but that shouldn't be an issue since the load is spread out over the whole surface. i know... industrial glue!!! slap on a thin film of polycarbonate and that would look crazy!!!
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honeycomb core
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On 7/7/2005
Greg Olsen
wrote in from
Canada
(206.172.nnn.nnn)
This is the core of my next project.
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pressure and vacuum
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On 7/5/2005 duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
yano there is no danger of under-saturating the fibers. Autoclaves used for the best quality composites use vacuum bagging (-14.7 psi), then top that with 100 psi or so of compression for a total of 114 psi plus or minus. That's how they get 70% fiber loadings, or can use high-temp prepregs with viscous resins with good results and zero voids.
you would have to build a strong box however, pressure explosions are no fun. Its my opinion that it is not necessary for building boards.
as for heat, check out the "tire warmers" blankets for heating race rubber tires, they would wrap a board both sides outside the bag, have temp. controllers, and can be purchased 110V or 12V as you please. And they are safe unlike home-made rigs.
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ok minor point
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On 7/3/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
tyler(a few posts back),i kind of hope your not the tyler i know ,,,but. A 45 degree angle on a sander gives a perfectly rounded edge?,it gives a 45 degree edge. Which is a nice bevel to start with to guide your hands into a circular radius,same distance from the edge across the surface of the deck, and down around the edge. Just nit picking scuse me, i tried for a few days,but i couldn't let it go.
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pressing issues
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On 7/3/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
i'm sort of notorious for traveling with a full shop and testing equipment for the first time during an actual race (which is kinda stupid really) but until recently never really considered transporting the presses.
whilst considering your proposition it occurred that unless the mold is built into the "table" itself (like if all your boards are flat), i would think that transporting a more modular system would be even better. i can't imagine cambre/rocker or convex/concave being possible w/o a mold to put on the table or any adjustability to the curvatures as such.
the solution i came up with a couple of days ago employs a very old material (composite really) that would be a lot lighter weight than the concrete molds it would emulate. i have yet to test this solution but i would think that it is possible to hand shape a press in an hour that cures in ambient temps overnight and would be clamp-able vacuum or other (de)vice the next day. it would be disposable and everything but the "glue" would be from materials you recycle. the idea is so new that i haven’t tested it yet and will refrain from divulging the details at the moment.
so if you do use a mold it wouldn't be more than a few inches wider and longer than your final product and this would fit into a tube or (duane's good quality garbage bags)and some duct tape to close it up (this works great btw) so that all you're really carrying around is a vacuum pump and hose (optional) or vices (if you're not using your car as the "press") and some other materials to build your molds (3 lbs) the rest you can find in the garbage. oh and it all gets tossed in the garbage bags you use as your vacuum bag. conceivably it should be possible to take a concept to fruition and tested in three days though the final product might be a bit green.
of course the decks i'm now building does have concave, convex, cambre, and rocker, it is thick in the middle but has very little in the way of a core. so excuse me if i may be well be totally off base in my remarks, especially if you're needs are a bit less demanding.
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under pressure
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On 7/2/2005
yan0
wrote in from
United States
(71.32.nnn.nnn)
I am on the road on an xcountry trip (which is schweet) but I am going stirr crazy with out my workshop. Been thinking about "piggy backing" my vaccuum press with a compressor. Basically I would build a camber table (like PD does) (fantastic article by the way. When I get a chance I am putting it on my site) then bolting a "box" over the table, and pressurizing the box with a compressor. Also thinking about a heat device of some sort in the box.. but as you can tell its still in the "think" stage. .. Thoughts?? is there any potental of under saturating the fibers? Anyone done anything like it?
Yan0
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Skateboard building classes
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On 6/24/2005 EBasil
wrote in from
United States
(63.206.nnn.nnn)
JHuard, I highly recommend the Roarockit "system", since you can minimize the use of power tools/danger, yet produce a top-quality deck. I'm biased toward the "longboard" kit, but they provide a street-board version, as well.
Contact Ted and Norah at Roarockit.com, and they will be very helpful. They have a curriculum you can use to base a class on, and a video you can watch online. I have similar materials I used in May, and I'm revising and enlarging them for Fall, '05. I will gladly provide you with any input, ideas or insight I can. I'm this screen-name at AOL.com if you want to find me. I just got lucky finding this today...
There are also unfinished blanks available from a retired teacher in Santa Cruz, in case your students would be better served by a project limited more to sanding, stain/painting, griptaping and building out the decks. I can get you that contact info and etc...too.
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making the makers...
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On 6/24/2005 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
j. huard:
if you go back a few pages on this homemade forum you'll find a post by ebasil that starts out like this:
On 4/28/2005 EBasil wrote in from 63.206.xxx.xxx:
The University of California, San Diego's Earl Warren College Student Activity Center presents "Longboard Building 101: build your own 40" pintail longboard".
he goes on to give information on various details of the course he offered.
you may want to look into the roarokit system it is set up for teaching exactly this type of thing. it's what ebasil based his program on.
hope this helps.
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building a skate board
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On 6/23/2005
J. Huard
wrote in from
United States
(24.105.nnn.nnn)
I am a industrail Arts teacher at a high school and have alot of students who have shown interest in building their own skate boards (decks). If anyone knows how to do this with basic tools, made of wood, help me out. E-mail me with instructions, step by step if possible. Thanks
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more fiberglass tips
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On 6/21/2005
Tyler
wrote in from
United States
(67.83.nnn.nnn)
Here's some more fiberglass tips that I have picked up from experience.
Perfect edges- do a rough trim with a razorblade, then use an electric sander, preferably a random orbital sander, and hold it at about a 45 degree angle to the edge and you will get nice perfectly rounded edged and you really won't be able to tell there is any glass on it.
Glass like Finish- to get a perfectly smooth glass like finish, it's all in the urethane process. Do two to three coats of a brush on 'thane with a wet sand with 1000 grit in between each coat, then spray on about 2 coats, and wet sand that with about 1500 grit sandpaper. You will end up with something that looks like it will be clear coated, and if you get real good at it, it will cover up the texture of the glass.
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hyper carve info
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On 6/16/2005 duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
here you go
http://www.milehighskates.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=793
if you can't borrow one to trace, print out the photo and enlarge it to make a pattern...or better yet, draw your own
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Board replication
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On 6/15/2005 Non-skid
wrote in from
United States
(24.20.nnn.nnn)
Would anyone know the exact dimensions of a Gravity 47" Hyper-Carve board? I'd like to try and replicate one, but I don't know enough specs. Just the distances between key points on the board will do. Thanks!
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hand layed glass
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On 6/14/2005
Fitz
wrote in from
Australia
(203.164.nnn.nnn)
When using epoxy and you decide to paint a layer over your fibre for that nice shiny smooth look, use multi thin coats rather than one thick coat. The resin naturally releases gas as it goes off which will leave bubbles.
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shut up and get to the point@!
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On 6/13/2005 jestah
wrote in from
New Zealand
(210.86.nnn.nnn)
Oh what a ranter... i got carryed away...
how do you ensure that the layers bond properly?
By hand you use use a rubber squeegie to press the resin through the glass. this wets it out but then you have to make sure its not floating in the resin so you use it to now pull as much excess resin to the rail and off the deck this also get rid of the air bubbles. your trying to compact the glass on the the deck with as little excess resin and air. Its an art to do well and fast but not that hard if you have some one showing you all the fifty tricks. I tends to be easyer to do 1 maybe 2 layers of glass at a time by hand(i have gone as many as 8 layers of glass and 2 layers of 3ply in one shot in a bag). As was said earlyer as it goes off it forms a blush which will screw with the bonding of any later layers. A good scrub with steel wool or a 3M scotch pad is also a good way of working the surface. A tip that someone once told my (but havnt tryed) is:
lay what ever up by hand then lay some peel ply down then use a BIG soft sponge and press down on to the pelply this will draw some excess resin out but when its off just peel the peelply and its ready to glass no worrys about blush.
Hope this helps and im not just wasting bandwith
Jestah
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Glassin by hand vs The Bagg
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On 6/13/2005 jestah
wrote in from
New Zealand
(210.86.nnn.nnn)
glassing by hand is really tricky in my eyes. I'm training under a local shaper and when he works its wicked to watch the speed he can wet out a deck and pull the flat glass around some pretty tight curves. But still he can only get it down to 40%resin 60% glass... not the best.
By using a bag and vacuum combined with a ok hand layup say 45/55glass then with peel ply and a thick breather you will suck it down to say 30\70 (excess resin will be pulled out of deck into peel-ply and breather) as it was explained to me this ratio gives just enough resin to make the glass strong with out enough to make it brittle. I also like bagging as it is very even. No dry patches from a tight spot between a mismatched male and female mould.
I am having a lot of success by hand shaping from a polystyrene block the camber and then if the deck needs it a little concave. I will lay a very thin layer of mdf on surface the this is then glassed, hot coated, sanded, polished and waxed or if it’s just a mock up or custom ill just lay some waxed polythene down on the mdf
This all gets put in a bag and you can pull a deck in one hit. Once its cured pop it off the mould and depending on with way you curved the mould, the bottom is Smooth and pritty (MMmmm shiny twill weave carbon on the 45's....) an the top can have a peel ply finish which grip tape LOVES or smoothish with pin prick holes if you use perf. ply.
Any way that’s just my two cents worth.
I’m working on a system that V lam’s can be done in the bag at the same time as the skinns. Ie all in one hit rather than laying the core up and then adding the skins later. any one have any suggestions or tips?
Thanks
Jestah
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