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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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double pivot?
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On 2/9/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
what does that mean?
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We'll see Sean C.
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On 2/8/2006 Al Williams
wrote in from
Dominican Republic
(66.98.nnn.nnn)
Mine? Ok...I'll try to keep you in mind when the time comes! If I can over come a few obstacles such as the steel axles and custom poured bushings, I'll be set to make some pretty killer carving trucks. I already got the molds and aluminum part of it pretty much down! If you don't already know they will be double pivot cousins to the Sidewinders..which are already starting to become somewhat popular. But..I can't get into too many details yet! :(
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Hollow Axles
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On 2/8/2006 Sean C.
wrote in from
United States
(167.206.nnn.nnn)
If you look at Z-Rollers from back in the day, they have 8mm axels and are hollow type tubes. I have taken the axles out of the trucks and they feel lighter than a normal axle. This is a plus definitely, but does the hollow tubing have any structural issues, such as bending easier? Or does the circular hollow design offer increased strength due to a circle being a strong structure?
Yes Al, HerbN's trucks all have hollow axles like what I mentioned above with the Z-Rollers. It is, as you said, sort of like a hole through the whole axle...
Oh yeah... I want a set of your trucks!
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4140 steel etc...
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On 2/8/2006 Al Williams
wrote in from
Dominican Republic
(66.98.nnn.nnn)
Herbn, do you mean to say that you actually use 'tubing' and not round bars? Or in other words the axles have a hole running through them? This is interesting! Anyway thanks for your input! The more info you have the better, because I would like to produce trucks with very good axles. Oh, and actually I found more info. on the 4140 steel. This is the type Indy trucks use for their hanger axles...so it must be pretty good! However, I am interested in hearing more about the tubular axles if you care to give some more info! And please keep me posted if you have any other useful tips.
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axle steel
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On 2/8/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
i use thick wall aircraft tubing,i think it's 4130, that's a bit more common,i remember it from bmx frames. 4140 might be a slightly higher grade(IF, a higher number always means better/stronger) ultimately 4340 would be really cool though i doubt you could cut the threads with a die,like i prefer. You'd probabely have to cut the threads with a carbide tipped thread cutting tool, the thread cutting gearbox engaged and making a couple of passes. For best strength these axles would need to be heatreated and at that pointy they might be slightly warped by the heatreating though they could be centerless ground down to .3145 or what ever would be a perfect tight sliding fit on a 8mm bearing, the 5/16 4130 is a bit over sized,i guess the 4340 would be oversized as well.
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Axle steel
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On 2/7/2006
Al Williams
wrote in from
Dominican Republic
(66.98.nnn.nnn)
HerbN, a poster on the "pumping forum" mentioned that you might have some experience in making or designing trucks, and might be able to answer a question regarding good axle steel. I'm interested in finding out if SAE 4140 Chrome Molly might be a good steel? Or better yet...Do you know a source where I can buy some good quality axles. I might be able to use a few thousand in the future. I'd be very appreciative if you could help in this?
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Too much wood talk!
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On 2/4/2006 That Canadian guy
wrote in from
Canada
(70.31.nnn.nnn)
Hey guys, thanks alot for the tips .
I will probably give Snyders a call instead of going through this sawmill on Lake simcoe(abit closer, Welbeck i think was their mill)
And thanks for the birch advice, ill see into it after i finish my maple decks. Dont want to get ahead of myself. Good to know that thers ppl that can aput me on the right track. Awesome!@!!!
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birch
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On 2/4/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.132.nnn.nnn)
Yeah, birch can be dodgey aswell (just got some 3mm from lush, not sure about that either?), i've used alot of birch, but it has all had diffrent grades of filler plys, the last lot was good, much stiffer, because it was all birch, but the 1st lot i bought, was too flexy to make anything over 36" and then they were 11" wide, fat! (this is 12mm 9ply)
Birch always looks nicer when varnished, thats why i like it alot. But be sure its not birch 'face' ply , but then anything 'face' is no good really, i think its called baltic birch over your side of the water, where all the plys are the same?
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Maple plywood?
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On 2/4/2006 Jamie M.
wrote in from
Canada
(65.93.nnn.nnn)
Hey Canadian, are you using maple veneer or maple plywood? If its plywood make sure its veneer core. Most of the stuff I've seen is made with a softwood filler, maple only on the outer.
I have made a couple of decks using Birch plywood, it works well, not quite as stiff as hard maple. Have to use a bit more. Some people prefer the feel of birch over maple. I bought mine at Snyders plywood on Weber st. in Waterloo. They stock 5'x5'sheets from 1/8" to 1". They will also cut it into more manageable shapes for a small fee. Have a good time making your deck, its really cool to be able to ride on something you made yourself.(as long as it doesnt break!!)
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ride some wood
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On 2/4/2006 not another canadian
wrote in from
Canada
(70.31.nnn.nnn)
Hey again, another thiught popped up while getting the boards started. By the way, good call on the tightbond 3, sweet deal. How is birch in comparison to hard maple?, just curious, is there a big diff int rh flex? adhesive quality?
Thanks
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glue
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On 2/3/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.132.nnn.nnn)
Try 'Titebond III' its a good one to start with, its low odour and easy to clean up if you make any mistakes, there are loads of other ways but, this is a good starter.
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Glue ing??
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On 2/2/2006 northern board
wrote in from
Canada
(70.31.nnn.nnn)
Im just starting out to make a longboard. I picked up few sheets of good ol canadian maple, made a press and angled my press to preference. But now im stuck with what glue to use. Is there any specific glue to look towards?
First time builder by the way.
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dust
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On 2/2/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
i reccommend breathing in as much of the dust as possible,to save time on clean up. Seriously though,the way you're cutting and rounding the edges of the board, will vary the amount of dust and the grain,finer dust will float.If you trim the board with a router,a mask and long sleeves are highly reccommended. If you use a band saw with a bit of course sand paper by hand,a pair of work gloves may be enough. It's really up to you.
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Cutting and Sanding Fibreglass...
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On 2/1/2006
Sean C.
wrote in from
United States
(167.206.nnn.nnn)
I have a Fibreflex 44" Pintail that I'm going to be cutting down and sanding so it can be used for a long distance pumper. I'm curious as to what dangers there are in sanding or cutting the fibreglass.
Should I wear a respirator when sanding it so I don't breath in the dust?
Should I wear long sleeves and gloves so I don't end up itchy from the glass?
What about fixing delaminations... In the past I have just taken some 5 Minute Epoxy and smeared it over the fibreglass part that was rough or delamming and waited for it to dry. This has always done the trick, but I'm wondering if there are other methods to easily fix them.
Thanks guys.
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Baltic and glass
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On 1/31/2006 Jeff
wrote in from
United States
(198.176.nnn.nnn)
Thanks for the response. That is the best answer I have had yet. Now I got to find some triaxial glass.
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glass+baltic
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On 1/30/2006 yan0
wrote in from
United States
(140.233.nnn.nnn)
I'd go with four panels of the 1/8" stuff, then a layer of 19oz (I think) triaxal glass on the top and bottom. 19oz may sound heavy, but 2/3 of that weight (perhaps a bit more) is going to stabalize torsional stresses. 1/8" baltic birch is substantially less torsionally sound than the 1/4" stuff so you are going to want some way to stiffen it up, especially at that length. One way to controll (SLIGHTLY) how much stiffness (tip to tail) the triax adds is by either adding the cloth straight side up, or straight side down. When the straight side (side with the fibers running straight from tip to tail, rather than straight at 45 degrees) is closer to the core, it will make slightly less of an impact than if it is on the outside. Basically when you lay it up on the outside, you add a little thickness to the core and so the fibers load up faster.
I'm making a board almost exactly like the one you are, except I am using 2 panels of the 1/4" stuff and triax on either side. One of my favorite boards I've made was similar, except it had a 3/8" ash core. A little heavy, but It turned like it was on rails, Stable, Sollid, Sweet
Hope that helps
Yan0
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Ply + Fiberglass question
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On 1/29/2006 Jeff
wrote in from
United States
(67.183.nnn.nnn)
I'm going to make a 53" board with a wheelbase of 41" and slight camber. I have some 1/8' baltic birch plywood to make it.
How thick should I make the core if I plan to have a layer of fiberglass on both top and bottom? I weigh 175lb and want a snappy ride. Not too flexy.
What oz. glass should I use?
Thanks for the help.
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pump deck
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On 1/26/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.132.nnn.nnn)
What sort of pumping are you talking about?
If its LDP then check this page of the pumping forum, Peters has put a picture of one of his decks and an explanation and there are picks of my 1st roarokit attempt set up for short distance pumping.
Hope this helps.
Click here for link
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pumping boards
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On 1/26/2006 polorat12
wrote in from
United States
(209.129.nnn.nnn)
i'm gonna make a pumping board and don't know much about how. i've got a roarockit bag but i'm not sure about how much flex or if it needs a kicktail. does anyone know about what's needed or how much flex you would put in for a pump board. its gonna be 8 ply and i'm 240 so i'm not sure how much flex. help please.
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big pic
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On 1/20/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.132.nnn.nnn)
Sorry Adam,
do you want to remove the monster?
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tail wedge
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On 1/20/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.132.nnn.nnn)
You can do it by sticking a wedge on the tail, then sanding down the underside parrallel with the wedge, there are foam wedges you can buy, Gravity do one, or soak and bend it in a jig, but i've never done that, but some of the other guys have i'm sure?
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tales?
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On 1/19/2006
christian
wrote in from
United States
(64.75.nnn.nnn)
how do you make a tale on a flat piece of wood that you are making a deck out of.
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lefthand threads for left wheels
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On 1/14/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
would solve the problem ,but the bolts are expensive ,and harder to find,i'd have to buy a hundred. The taps to cut the threads are expensive and the special taps for ti ,forget about that, and then i'd have to to look real close at the bolts every time i change wheels,really not that often,it's most because of the first couple of reasons,plus i don't have a problem with internal threads loosening ,i go .750 deep and make the bolts long enough to jam into the end of the threads,and now i use regular socket style allen bolts,not the domed ones,that makes the wrench 4mm instead of 2.5 or 3mm.
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internal threads
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On 1/14/2006 AaronW
wrote in from
United States
(168.215.nnn.nnn)
Would reverse internal threads solve the problem?
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flub, fixed
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On 1/13/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
it looked bad,my very time intensive hand made trucks,were crooked,argh!! why? i pondered,usually this type of thing has no fix, a hole drilled crooked can't usually be fixed. I checked my machine, could the head be set crooked, sometimes a climbing cut jumps,sort of a jerking action that can move the head if the bolts are not all that tight. It checked out perfect,more perfect than i even remember it being. Kingpin holes, pivot bushing hole, if those are off the baseplate is garbage,bushing seat,ah the bushing seat,i think i left that thick enough to shave down a bit if it happens to be crooked also a very slight problem here is magnified by the axles length, i looked real careful, the recess for the bushings was drilled with a 1.0 endmill that's close tolerence,on one side i see a sliver of the metal under the bushing on the other side the bushing is packed up solid against the counter sinks sidewall. I lined things up with the one inch endmill and then took out a boring bar,it's an adjustable cutter and i set it for just a tiny bit over 1.0 amybe 1.020 or so,and shaved out the bushing seat on all four sides(both trucks) a quick assembly and i could tell almost immediately that things were better,digital caliper reading on my most level(not really) counter top,showed definite success. aaaahhh happy happy joy....
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