|
|
|
| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
|
| Topic |
Home Made Boards |
|
Here we go .................
|
|
On 10/1/2006
Mike Stenstrom
wrote in from
United States
(69.85.nnn.nnn)
STARTING A LONG TIME AGO, I MADE A VERY LONG BOARD WITH WIDE SIMS PURE JUICE AND BENNETT TRUCKS.
RECENTLY I MADE ANOTHER ONE ABOUT 70 INCHES LONG WITH 70MM SECTOR 9 WHEELS AND BONES SWISS BEARINGS. IT IS A REAL CRUISER AND FLEXII !! I CALL IT 747.
I PLAN TO MAKE MORE TO SELL. MS
|
|
|
|
|
How to bend boards
|
|
On 9/28/2006 dean
wrote in from
United States
(66.80.nnn.nnn)
Flat boards work better than many people would think they do. As posted before, they dont make that much differnece during hard carves. Good grip tape works awesome, some people use a grip tape with higher pilings at the outer edges that they replace after so many rides to make sure the grit is sharp.
The toothless site linked there is a good one for ideas. Also there's getting to be some good discussion on
www.oldschoolskateboarding.com
on the message boards there- bunch of good guys, and quite a few dowhillers.
http://oldschoolskateboarding.com/phpBB2/index.php
Dean
|
|
|
|
|
concave,don't like it
|
|
On 9/26/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
not one bit. For downhill that is. I like it for low pressure traction,transitions,ollies ect.. but for a deep leining carve or a straight on bombing run flat is the way to go,for me. So bending birch ply, is not worth the trouble.
|
|
|
|
|
concave or not concave?
|
|
On 9/26/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(217.44.nnn.nnn)
Click here for link
Check this guy out his 'basic technique' might be a good start, mabie using the weights to bend the plys across the board with a wide brace clamped down the cenctre to keep the middle of the deck flat? (when u look you'll see what im on about)
concave without a press in my trys and disasters is a nightmare, but then there is Pocket pistol foam wedges??
Munchh.
|
|
|
|
|
Bend the birch
|
|
On 9/26/2006 Derik
wrote in from
Germany
(193.7.nnn.nnn)
Hi Dan,
I have heard about soaking the wood for a while and than bending it for a few days until its dry. Another possible way would be steaming. Google for it cause I don't know the details.
|
|
|
|
|
help!
|
|
On 9/25/2006 dan@csu
wrote in from
United States
(70.56.nnn.nnn)
my buddy bought a bunch of sheets of 12 ply baltic birch to make some longer (50-60in) fun decks. i was wondering if there was any way to add some concave, since we're not layering and pressing the wood ourselves, is it still possible?
|
|
|
|
|
homemade speedboard
|
|
On 9/24/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
well my speed board,i made the trucks, 40degree turning angle instead of my usual 45. With pink gumballs hit two runs on a freshly paved road in vernon n.j.,48,then 51 mph up about 3 mph over my last runs there, the variables were new pavement, pink wheels with biltins, a fullface helmet and pads over smaller pants,hhmmm, the major change was total stability over the last board.
|
|
|
|
|
First surf log
|
|
On 9/21/2006 Derik
wrote in from
Germany
(193.7.nnn.nnn)
I just completed my first surf log. I used 12mm, 9 ply birch. My first idea was that this board is a prototype for the next board, but it rides better than I expected. The board is flat with a kick, 9.25 inch wide and has a 20 inch wheelbase. The whole work took less than two hours for cutting, rasping, sanding and waxing. And best of all, I paid less than 10 dollars for the wood and the grip tape.
I ride it with the Carver CX trucks. Fist it felt strange to ride a flat board, because all my little ones have concave, but the feeling in combination with the trucks is really surfy. Only when it comes to higher speed and I carve hard, i fear my feet slipping.
|
|
|
|
|
bike
|
|
On 9/21/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(217.44.nnn.nnn)
whens the vid coming, its been coming a while?
|
|
|
|
|
SkateBoard Bike? Yes, a Skateboard Bike
|
|
On 9/20/2006
Jamaal Bey
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
Attention All Skaters,
Go see the Worlds First Gravity Skateboard Bike, Called The Sphinx @
Click here for link
Dragon Scales, Worlds first Ollie Button, Shoe & Shoelace Saver.
|
|
|
|
|
Bamboo and Foam Rubber kicks?
|
|
On 9/14/2006
Dean
wrote in from
United States
(24.254.nnn.nnn)
Where are you getting the sheets of bamboo? Where can I find The foam rubber for making kick tails? Anyone?
Sweet lookin boards out there. Thanks!
Dean
|
|
|
|
|
Thank you very Munchh
|
|
On 9/14/2006 1848
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(81.178.nnn.nnn)
you shouldn't be so modest, my friend.
you probably don't realise the amount of people you've inspired to cut their own board
(by the way, homemade are as simple as having a piece of wood and a saw; any wood will do, you'll just find out for yourself if it works or not; my first board was 10 mm ply dropthrough speedboard: it didn't work!)
I think it's more important (and considerably more useful) to make your first board in 2 hours and try again every day for a week than planning it all carefully and working hard for 7 days. first board must fail. this is how the second one will work.
coming back to the solid; it is very simple and at 29" works perfectly if you only want to do what was done circa 1975.
think DelMar...
it's a thrill; I cruise, rip and slide.
At last, I am the s#@!z in the neighbourhood!
go shape, go ride.
|
|
|
|
|
1848's solid
|
|
On 9/14/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(217.44.nnn.nnn)
I just realised i've never commented on 1848's solid, as i've riden it i know its great, nice and simple and feels great when you pick it up, kept the grip job looking period and i've no got 2 lumps of the same ash, nice find that reclamation place man......
Everyone should make one of these, they are very satifying to make and ride like nothing else.
Good job dood.
|
|
|
|
|
minis and solids
|
|
On 9/14/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(217.44.nnn.nnn)
Hey man,
its 12mm 9 ply birch, i routed out down 3 layers, but its just varnished, i have never used fibre glass, i try and keep it simple.
As for solid decks, 1/2" in harder woods but 3/4" if you are making a longboard and not a 70's repro?
|
|
|
|
|
Another TS misshap
|
|
On 9/14/2006 c.j.
wrote in from
Australia
(203.164.nnn.nnn)
Munchh, ive got a bit of a TS misshap myself, il post pics soon. what is your board made from, i.e. what thickness/ply/type wood and is it fibreglassed???
|
|
|
|
|
shape to flex
|
|
On 9/13/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
wide in the middle,thin at the ends. this doesn't make the ends flex more,unless you go really to thin. The middle of the board has more stress, more distance to the trucks, a straight railed board would flex more in the middle than at the ends. So the goal of a pintail/teardrop shape is even flex. When i make beamed boards, i taperdown the beams at the ends of the board,same purpose.
|
|
|
|
|
Learning/Searching
|
|
On 9/13/2006 Yan0
wrote in from
United States
(140.233.nnn.nnn)
There is an unbelievable wealth of information on this page, use the search tool and you can narrow it down to specifics pretty easily. That said its allways nice to have a place to start.. I know I was lost when I began so.. Here goes..
You can use just about any hardwood. If you are making a board with plywood make sure you use cabinet grade stuff, where its hardwood all the way through. I Use Baltic birch 5 ply (1/4") and 3ply (1/8") Some people use Aircraft grade baltic, which is a little thinner and pricier. The thickness of the board depends on A: the length, the longer the board the thicker you want it and B: how flexy you want the board, the thinner the flexier. I weigh 170lbs, for a 40" board I use two sheets of 1/4" baltic or a slightly thinner (3/8" +/-) Ash/Maple/cherry core with fiberglass or carbon skins. Shape absolutely changes the ride of the board. From camber (slightly stiffens, adds pop etc) and Concave ( keeps the foot in, stiffens) to the shape you cut (thin = Flexy) I have a long drawn out teardrop shape that I like that is 60" long, the tail flexes far more than anyother part ofthe board because there is less material to resist forces... Experiemt you'll find something that works for you. Make a bunch of boards, your first ones will leave a bit to be desired. For that matter my current boards still leave alot to be desired, which is why I (and everyone else that posts here) continue to make them.. that and as Munchh so wisely pointed out, Hommades are straight up cool.
good luck - and USE THAT SEARCH TOOL!!
|
|
|
|
|
Home made boards
|
|
On 9/13/2006
Mikeyboy
wrote in from
United States
(207.13.nnn.nnn)
What type of wood should be used?
What thickness should be used if making a solid wood board?
Where should the truck holes be drilled?
Does the shape of the board affect the way it rides?
Any advice will be much appreciated!
|
|
|
|
|
still did it wrong?
|
|
On 9/10/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(81.156.nnn.nnn)
munchhboards.tripod.com
Doooohh!
|
|
|
|
|
..........more
|
|
On 9/10/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(81.156.nnn.nnn)
dont know what went on the?
munchh.tripod.com
|
|
|
|
|
Munch
|
|
On 9/9/2006 Cameron
wrote in from
Australia
(203.164.nnn.nnn)
munch do you have a homepage were i can see all your different boards u made
|
|
|
|
|
Better on the jigsaw than on the keyboard...
|
|
On 9/8/2006 1848
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(81.178.nnn.nnn)
see 3 posts down.
nice and simple
sidewalk surfboard
|
|
|
|
|
hopefully a better picture
|
|
On 9/8/2006 1848
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(81.178.nnn.nnn)
1
|
|
|
|
|
