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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 6/21/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
How about concave/side kicks?
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On 6/21/2000 Kanoa
wrote in from
(38.29.nnn.nnn)
Anyone though about making a double kick tail toft? Wowzers
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On 6/20/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Doobie, if you would like to see one way to put camber and concave, or kick tails into your homemade decks, check my site off of the NCDSA links page... HR
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On 6/20/2000 Adam
wrote in from
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DOOBIE,
Not to discourage you, but making commercial quality plywood skateboards is not as easy as it might seem. Forget Home Depot wood, that stuff is junk. Go straight to furniture grade 9 and 11 ply Baltic Birch at $100 per 4x8 sheet. If you're careful you can whack out 9 or 10 blanks from one sheet. Then you need to router the edges; sand, sand, sand; and learn to apply a really nice coat of urethane sealer (this is tricky to make look "professional"). Lastly you have to drill precise holes, and then screen print. Screen setup costs vary, but the general rule is that you have to be planning on making dozens and dozens of decks (not just a few) for screening to make sense. Now add in 50% retail margins, i.e. the store sells your deck for $60, but pays you $30 for it. And this is for completely flat decks. Try adding camber, rocker, kicktails, etc. and your production costs go even higher, but not necessarily your wholesale price. It's a labor of love for most board makers, but a great way to always have something new to ride!
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On 6/20/2000
DOOBIE
wrote in from
(207.205.nnn.nnn)
Is there an easy way to produce a decent amount of skateboards? any inexpensive Ideas? I have been contemplating starting a local company between KC and JAX, as my friend out there would use the same company name. Is there a way to do this fairly inexpensively, as there is definetly a market for lower priced locally made boards out here. Is screen printing for decent graphics hard and expensive? I did some of this in industrial technology class a few years ago, but it was one color per screen. ANY help would be appreciated as I want to start a TINY local buisness making skateboards... or do I just buy some plywood from HOME DEPOT...I hope not...err...cause I'd like to have kicktails on them...thanks
---DOOBIE
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On 6/17/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
I sort of stalled on my edge glue clamp, but its close.I'm not sure if the concave press is worth the trouble and I can tell that soaked and warped concaves are not my style.However i'm really psyched about a new chassis idea for my second Stroker board ,though regular trucks will work, until those are done. It consistes of a ladder frame of either 6061 tubing (half to three quarter)or 7075 solid stock with brackets that clamp on the tube frame and hold side panels of quarter inch birch ply ,these clamps would overlap in the middle of the ladder frame and bolt to each other through elongated slots, to secure the setting of the concave/convex, which would be adjustable,and variable front to back.
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On 6/15/2000 Paul d.
wrote in from
(154.5.nnn.nnn)
Thanks HR, I've got 5 blanks ready for glassing and I'm going to
do 5 different decks. 3 are russian plywood(I'll try 3 different glassings on the same shape 8.5x44").
2 a vertically laminated hardwoods.
1 is 50% oak/50%mahogany 8 1/2x48 pintail the other is maple, cherry, mahogany, and oak 9x46" all-arounder.
The vert/lam looks really cool I've made a few already but never glassed them.
The best thing is, is that it's all scrap I got free from work, I'll tell you how things work-out.
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On 6/15/2000 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
(209.198.nnn.nnn)
David,I've been cutting up old snowboards for years,and if done right,they make great cruising boards.I recommend the E-Deck from Burton,but several of their boards are in that medium flex range.Double check the material used in the core,as foam(like Rossignol)cores just fold after cutting.Wood is Good!Of the current line,the Balance is as soft as you'd want go,any softer,and it will be "soggy" as a skateboard.Freeride and Alpine(Not Race) boards make the best conversions,halfpipe boards tend to be too soft.Cut length-wise along the edges,maybe 3/8" to 1/2" inboard of the edges.On a 155 cm snowboard,expect to get a maximum of 48" of length for the skate deck.Pick the curves for your shape with care,nothing too sharp(No crazy wheel wells!). Routering the sides is a good thing,although a few passes with a Surform file will do in a pinch.Don't mount your trucks directly onto the P-Tex,as they will slide and get mis-aligned.Add Dooks or some other rubber pad under the trucks,and use flat washers under the heads of the mounting screws.Add griptape or Astro-deck foam,and go surf the street. :)
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On 6/15/2000 b-rian
wrote in from
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put a brick underneath where you want each truck to go then stand on it. this should give you an idea of how much flex the board will have.
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On 6/15/2000
dAVID
wrote in from
(128.143.nnn.nnn)
I was debating about building a longboard and I have
an old Burton snowboard that I could use. I've read
about building longboards from waterskis but would a
snowboard also work? I believe it is made from 9 ply
birch. Would it be to flexy?
THANX
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On 6/14/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Paul,
I have learned a few things (by my many mistakes actually) about glassing (although I am far from any kind of an expert)
Make sure you apply your glass and resin under pressure. You can use a very thin flexy board wrapped in wax paper on top of your glass and then clamp them together.
Do not use too much hardner. The longer the cure time the better it sticks and the stronger it is. Shoot for 6+ hours of cure time.
I have not had a board warp because of the glass/resin set up. But I have only glassed six or seven decks so far.
Hope this helps... HR
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On 6/14/2000 Paul D.
wrote in from
(154.5.nnn.nnn)
I use round bastard files to make wheel wells.
It takes a bit of sculpting, but its easyer to control
then a router. Also you get an angled well
that's deep were it needs to be (near the edge).As apposed to a flat
well made by the router. Remember, it takes some work
and you can make them look good with some practice.
question: when fibre glassing, if I only do one side of
the deck , will the curing resin cause the wood to warp.
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On 6/14/2000
Drew
wrote in from
(12.72.nnn.nnn)
Does anyone have info on longboard deck designs. I really have no clue. Any info would be helpful.
A.Zobell@m.cc.utah.edu
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On 6/14/2000 Kanoa
wrote in from
(38.29.nnn.nnn)
Jonas, Hugh's right, Take your time sorry if I rushed you, just do what you need to do. Going into biz takes the fun out of it for myself, boards made under pressure don't come out as good as they as they should.
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On 6/13/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
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Jonas,
You must understand that many board builders tend to be an impatient lot who are quick to respond with ire when we are teased with "words" that hint of beautiful workmanship, and are left wondering what shape the art has taken.
Or is it that we are terribly visually oriented and can only appericiate what we can see? That is one for the philosophers... (I guess that would be herbn and the fuzz)
HR
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On 6/13/2000
Jonas
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
I,Jonas,am in Eureka,California. Northcoast,behind the redwood curtain. I will try to get pics of the 8-wheeler very soon,but please understand I just got it finished today and haven't even drilled truck holes or taped it yet. I'm sure that pics can't do the real item justice as it is a real beauty.
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On 6/13/2000 Glen
wrote in from
(216.102.nnn.nnn)
where are you located Jonas?
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On 6/13/2000
Jonas
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
The 8-wheeled decks I spoke of are now a reality(at least for me).I have no digital camera...any suggestions on how I can get pics done? Anyway the first one is ready to be drilled/taped/etc. I am very happy with how the deck turned out!! I used the shape of the original Toft O-8 and went with a longer/steeper tail and also added a slight kick in the nose along with slight rocker down the length.30x13.5 inches made of birch. The next one I have done will include v-laminated hard-woods of diff colors,but even the one I got looks beautiful.
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On 6/13/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Hey Jo,
Check the yahoo.club "the homemade skateboard clinic", in the past message posts there are several on how to make a jig to form wheel wells... HR
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On 6/13/2000 Simon "Old Brit"
wrote in from
(195.92.nnn.nnn)
If you want to cut wheel wells you can do it with a rotary surform cutter and electric drill. But, becarefull, very carefull as they cut deep and fast and you will want to make sure your wearing gloves and specs if it all gets a bit too much or goes pear shaped.
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On 6/12/2000 Jo
wrote in from
(24.189.nnn.nnn)
i dont really like the way cut outs on decks look, would anyone know how to put wheelwells in?
thanks,
jo
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On 6/12/2000 polyperc
wrote in from
(63.93.nnn.nnn)
Herbn,
Try MSC's Big Book under raw materials. Also McMaster-Carr. But, be careful, once you start looking thru these catalogs for skateboard raw materials, its like being a kid in a candy store, (or a machinist at a scrap yard).
Happy hunting,
polyperc
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On 6/12/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Anybody have a line on 3/8 to 1/2 structural urithane foam big enough to make a deck out of ,I could definitely shape and glass it.
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On 6/12/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
The Y(actually T shaped) shaped board has been done,beleive it or not,(sillyness repeats)it even got a picture in Skateboarder, you could swing the crossmember with the 2 trucks on it for steering without leaning like a primative go kart.
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On 6/12/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Hey Jo,
Although the Randal's are quite tall, I personally have had to use risers on my decks. Either 0.125 or 0.25 depending. Your best bet is to mount it up and do a very low speed (slower than walking) test to see where they rub.
Wheel bite hurts, so you really might consider cutouts or wells... my two cents... HR
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