Jason Mitchell, Seismic Nationals 2007, Hybrid Slalom.  Photo by Greg Fadell Northern California Downhill Skateboarding Association
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Buttboarding (778 Posts)
Topic Buttboarding Info
On 11/24/2003 EK wrote in from (204.246.nnn.nnn)

O.k., o.k.... That Polaris Indy helmet, made by Bell, that I have been advertizing... I am changing the "asking price" from $70 to $50.
I relisted it on EBay and if you don't want to go on EBay and get caught up in the auctioning "bull crap", e-mail me as soon as possible and mention you're a buttboarder or street luger and I'll sell it to you for $50 (plus shipping cost).
EK

 
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On 11/20/2003 EK wrote in from (204.246.nnn.nnn)

Howzit!
It's been a while since I have posted on this site.
Well I am here to tell you that I have a slightly used helmet for sale. It is a Polaris "Wedge-Design" helmet, made by Bell and it is in great condition. You can take a look at it on EBay in the "Snow Mobile Helmet" section or just look in the motorcycle helmets.
If you are seriously interested in this one-of-a-kind helmet, I will sell it to you for $10 less than posted ($70) if you e-mail me back and mention that you are a buttboarder. But you have to do it before the bidding closes.
Get back to me fast so I can close the bid.
Laters.
----- EK

 
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On 11/20/2003 Nervous Mom wrote in from (208.255.nnn.nnn)

Hod and Sean, thanks so much for all the info! Get this...my son takes an oblong plastic snow sled, puts it on top of his skate board and rides it down hill (gentle slop) until he hits the grass....the sled slides off at impact and keeps going on in the grass...what joy he experiences and what a hoot! The neighbors don't know what to think. He really wants to buttboard....we are located about an hour north of Atlanta, GA. Thanks so much...again...NMOM.

 
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On 11/19/2003 sean c wrote in from (152.163.nnn.nnn)

hod, i actually saved the convo from long ago and put it on my website for instances like this. it makes things easier for people. i made my own buttboard with a piece of 3/4" 11ply birch from this article. the most important part of the building your own board is making sure the trucks are lined up straight. if you make your own board the more ply's the board has the better. i know tim cayer sells buttboards at irssports.com actually if you check out his NO-X (no excuses) package deal, he sells everything needed to get started at a great price. here's the building instructions. http://www.geocities.com/sidestreetluge/buttboard.html

here's 11 yr. old ashleigh cayer under full brakes at a race in new hampshire

if the picture in the message doesn't show up, here's the link for it http://alumni.plymouth.edu/%7Esjclarke03/ash.jpg

so young people do ride. just be careful and make sure your son brakes a ton and wears alot of safety equipment. (leathers and helmet)

sean c

 
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On 11/19/2003 hod wrote in from (128.125.nnn.nnn)

Oh yes, nervous M, I forgot: you don't need a junior size as buttboards, apart form being cheaper, more fun to ride and better to learn onthan a luge, are also only 4foot long.
TIm Cayer at theluge store (irssports.com I think, can sell you a Lott Classic, which sets the standard.
You can also make your own. If you do a search on streetluge.net 's messageboard for the words buttboard and construction, or building, then you'll probably fin the relevant posts. (make sure you search ALL posts ever, not jsut recent ones).

 
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On 11/19/2003 hod wrote in from (128.125.nnn.nnn)

hi nervous mom. Well, a buttboard is the best thinhg to start on: it doesn't give you a false sense of security. In a lot of ways it's more fun too, and you learn better control.
It's not purely recreational however. He should try to get to ride with other people who want to do it (where are you based?) Riders age from age 8 - 65 that I know of, but they all ride either on closed roads, or with lots of safety precautions (chase cars, lane discipline etc) and ride in small groups.
Also, he MUST get a motorcycle-grade helmet and leathers (with padded kevlar inserts, preferably) to protect him in case he comes off. At low speeds (up to 25mph) you can just about get away with two pairs of jeans and some knee-elbow etc pads, but best to play safe. go to amazon.com and buy the streetluge survivor's guide (Darren Lott).
It's fun, but - as with crossing the road - you have to learn how to do it properly.

 
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On 11/18/2003 Nervous Mom wrote in from (208.255.nnn.nnn)

My 7th grade, 12 year old, wants a buttboard or street luge...just recreational...are there any junior size boards available? I'm having a hard time locating anything in Georgia....I will order off the web...just can't find any help! Thanks so much...not sure yet if a buttboard will be gracing our Christmas tree!

 
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On 11/17/2003 PSR wrote in from (24.52.nnn.nnn)

Mike,what trucks and bushings are you using? This is where Stimulators shine(keep an eye on Radikal's new bushings,too)as the extra width helps stabilize things a bit. Also,how's your wheelbase set up? If you're running the front truck too far back,you'll easily overpressure that truck,and likely wobble.The front axle should be at about mid-thigh,not right under your butt. Lastly,you may not be keep ing flat enough at the shoulders/upper back.Pulling yourself into a 'crunch' to see where you're going can unweight the rear,over-pressure the front,and raise your center-of-gravity all at the same time.You can guess how that might mess with your ride...

 
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On 11/17/2003 mike mullen wrote in from (4.62.nnn.nnn)

i finally went buttboarding but i had a problem with speed wobbles.i thought my trucks were pretty tight but maybe there not tight enough.then again maybe thats not my problem at all.maybe my riding style is wrong.i need some tips on how to ride properly.any info regarding speed wobbles would be greatly appreciated

 
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On 11/11/2003 jason wrote in from (151.197.nnn.nnn)

Im a diehard fan of motorcycle tires, they are free, any moto shop has a pile behind the dumpster, just make sure you get a good hard durometer rubber so you dont get the catching jerking action when they heat up when braking under high speeds, i cut the tire's sidewalls off with a sawzall then cut the tire up into 1/4's and then take two of the quarter chunks and i take a surform shaping plane and scrape the hell out of the inside of the tire rubber, this removes that slick, hard to adhere smooth layer of release agent thats on the inside of tires, then i take a pocket knife or razor knife and make deep gouges all over it, i even go as far as using a tight radius curved chisel and gouging long channels of rubber out so that there is ALOT of gripping area for the glue, i do the same to the shoes, i reccoment wrestling shoes, aero, superlight, smooth, and practicly sole-less, so they are easy to tread and retread. i use 1/2 tube of shoe goo 2 (the black stuff, looks WAY better) and smear that all over the rubber (stil uncut) then i put the shoe on the rubber, wedge the rubber and the shoes, rubber side down, under the front tires of my truck, then pull it foreward up ontop of the shoes, leave overnight to cure, then cut off with a sharp razor knife for a clean line, then use the leftover glue to seal the eges of the rubber/shoe joint, never had a shoe delam on me at any speed in any condition with this technique, another thing that works is two 2x6"s in a bench vise with the shoes and ruber in between the two, then simply clamp the two boards together wich puts the pressure on th4e rubber, dining room table legs with a pile of books over that end of the table works great too.
just make sure your tire rubber isnt too soft, the softer it is, the more itl grab up on you when it gets hot. this can cause you to crash REAL quick, especially on a buttboard.
ive rambled on too long
peace
jason

 
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On 11/11/2003 hugh r wrote in from (24.48.nnn.nnn)

Mike, I prefer to use old bias ply truck tire tread. I go to a local tire shop and they usually have many to choose from (at no charge)

I find the biggest ones that I can because they are easier to cut and end up closest to flat.

Make sure they are bias ply and not radials... HR

 
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On 11/11/2003 mike mullen wrote in from (4.62.nnn.nnn)

where can i find rubber for the bottom of my shoes besides old motorcycle tires. i went to home depot but i didnt see anything i could use. any ideas?

 
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On 10/26/2003 Nick wrote in from (66.87.nnn.nnn)

I just got some stuff from IRS Sports in 3 business days (to SF). I had them ship FedEx Ground.

 
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On 10/25/2003 mike mullen wrote in from (4.62.nnn.nnn)

does anybody know how long it takes to receive a board from irs sports a.k.a. the luge store? i ordered a lott classic butt board (deck only) about two weeks ago & i haven't got it yet. i am fiending for that board! i want to start bombing some hills! i am new to this sport & i can't wait to get started.anybody who has dealt with this store before & knows how long the shipping takes please write back. any information would be greatly appreciated.

 
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On 10/24/2003 lee wrote in from (195.234.nnn.nnn)

Hi Guys,

Does anyone know of a shop or person who sells buttboards in Europe. I want to get a board but it seems expensive to ship from the US.

Any suggestions would be appreaciated,

thanks

lee

 
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On 10/16/2003 PSR wrote in from (24.52.nnn.nnn)

My issue with Shoe-Goo is it's tendency to peel.It's not too bad,if you run short hills,or are only braking in bursts or lightly.However,I've got some really steep hills that END,Abruptly at intersections,railroad tracks,bridges(the ones in Rural upstate NY seem to always be single-lane and steel-grate flooring),or into a cow pasture with stone walls.Stopping is not a luxury.One road I hit on occasion has a 5-mile run,average pitch of 9% grade,that shoots out towards a busy tourist-laden two lane highway with only about 270 ft. of stopping room.State highway Rt.9 into Willmington (heading east) actually has two truck Run-Offs within 4 miles of road,and currently ends in dirt construction 1/10th mile from an 8% gradient.So,yeah,bonding shoe layers is,um,important to me. BTW,I've had decent luck using Catepillar brand steel-toed low-top urethane-soled work shoes as brakes.They last pretty well,stop smoothly,and dissapate heat,while keeping rural hazards like porcupines and acorns from inserting stuff into my toes.Footholds brand also has been a winner,about $10/pair cheaper than the Cats,but much harder to find. My Vans/Vision repair jobs will hopefully give me the hot-weather comfort of the Visions,while retaining the smooth grip of the Vans soles,and maybe even look O.K.. But I know that with new,steel-toed shoes,I've got secure braking,it just costs a lot.

 
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On 10/16/2003 sean c wrote in from (205.188.nnn.nnn)

doesn't hugh r's web site have a section about retreading shoes with rubber on his web site under the luge section? i can't remember the address at this moment though.

all i do is trace my shoe on an old tire that wasn't steel belted. i cut out the rubber and then glue it on with shoe goo. a decent rule of thumb is one tube per shoe. i then put a dumb bell on top of my shoe until the glue dries

sean c

 
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On 10/15/2003 Mario wrote in from (148.87.nnn.nnn)

I use shoe goo. I roughen up the rubber a little bit so there's better adhesion and then apply a liberal amount of shoe goo. I then wrap duct tape around the shoe several times so it's all clamped together. I got my rubber at Ace Hardware and cut it to shape with a jig saw. It's about 1" thick, but they have all sorts of thicknesses available.

 
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On 10/15/2003 PSR wrote in from (24.52.nnn.nnn)

Mike,the best results I've seen have been using the sole replacement kits for Climbing shoes. These are found at better Mountaineering/Outdoor adventure shops. They have one downside(well two,imho) in that the glue is only available with the kit,and those soles are Sticky,which means they wear fast,and your kness have to be in better shape than mine. The big problem is not only the quality of glue,but also in creating clamping pressure across the shoe sole. My friend Dan did this with inner-tube pieces stretch wrapped around a well-stuffed shoe. It worked. I'm currently looking into a better means of clamping to put bald Vans soles onto my Vision hi-tops. What seems to put the most even pressure is a wooden shoe-stretch block inside the shoe,then a thin kitchen cuttingboard under the sole with several squeeze clamps to hold it all together. I'm not really sure this will work,as there's still a few gaps in pressure displacement I've got work out. If it succeeds,I'll post it up.

 
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On 10/14/2003 mike mullen wrote in from (4.62.nnn.nnn)

how do you put pieces of rubber on the bottom of your shoes? i have never buttboarded before & i want to know how to hook up my shoes. is there a web site that shows pictures of how its done? any help would be greatly appreciated.

 
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On 10/8/2003 Tim wrote in from (24.34.nnn.nnn)

I am trying to reach the person who posts under the name PSR who appears to be from VT.

Could you please contact me? My email is posted above.

Thanks

Tim

 
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On 9/29/2003 EK wrote in from (204.246.nnn.nnn)

This post goes out to "Mike"... he wanted to know about where he can get a buttboard made or buy one.
You can refer back to Buttboarding.com and they have a contact e-mail address to get a Lott model buttboard. Or you can post up again and talk to Mario (I have one of his cool decks). Or I will sell you my buttboard.
It's competition ready and has been in several events (IGSA sponsered...). Has passed tech inspection with flying colors (regulation specs). Has been at speeds of 50plus mph... smooth. Is outfitted with 215s Independent Trucks and Sector Nine 70mm 78a wheels with ABEC 7 bearings. Or if you want, I will install Randall IIs, put on fresh, brand-new ABEC II Flashbacks instead. E-mail me if you are interested. I still have a love for "laydown" boarding but I am focusing on racing my gravity bike in the stock class. Let me know.
---- EK

 
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On 9/26/2003 FL wrote in from (65.119.nnn.nnn)

PSR..Good on ya . Keep positive thoughts on goin dh . Mike ..You might check the san jose sk8 link .Believe they have info on boards ....FL

 
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On 9/25/2003 PSR wrote in from (24.53.nnn.nnn)

FL,when I can get My act together enough,I want to have an "unlimited" downhill event here in Vermont.Rules are simple: Solo Timed runs first. Then the brackets are assigned into three groups. Three riders per heat,one from each group,time handicap awarded at the start. The 1st place finishers then go one more round,in groups of three,best time wins outright. The deal is that I want to do this at Okemo mountain once the upper access road is repaved.See,that way it's not just who's fastest,it's who survives being fast. Yup,well,that's my best daydream for gravity fed skateboarding/luging/buttboarding,just wish I make it happen.

 
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On 9/22/2003 mike wrote in from (216.151.nnn.nnn)

Im new to the sport. just tried it for the first time this weekend and loved it. I know there aren't many places to buy a complete but could anyone help with where I could buy a deck or contact a designer to have one made? I appreciate any help. Thanks-please email me at mike@fantasyshoponlin.com

 
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