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| Wheel Reviews (7944 Posts)
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abec 11 pink gummies
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On 1/11/2007
joseph
wrote in from
Australia
(58.166.nnn.nnn)
looking to get a set of these but am a bit worried about the chunking complaints. i wont be sliding these i want them for a buttboard set up.
will these wheels handle 60mph+ ?
will they handle hard turning on rough roads?
just looking for some feedback before i trade my excisting wheels for them.
cheers.
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wheels
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On 1/11/2007 how are ya
wrote in from
United States
(69.250.nnn.nnn)
krypto's are good. try abec flashbacks 7omm 78a or 75a for some serious smoothness
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how are the Kryptonic 65 mm 78a Wheels
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On 1/10/2007 phil
wrote in from
United States
(69.231.nnn.nnn)
how are the Kryptonic 65 mm 78a Wheels for a mini longboard. if possible i want to find the dest wheel for speed, smothness, and curving, so does anyone know what that would be?
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ricks wheels
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On 1/9/2007
cam
wrote in from
Australia
(58.166.nnn.nnn)
Rick, if you are looking for wheels similar to your 3dm cambrias for pool/park riding consider the tunnel rock wheels, they come in 90a(red) and 95a(blue). i hope this has helped you in your search for wheels.
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off the coping
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On 1/9/2007 rick
wrote in from
United States
(72.189.nnn.nnn)
okay my park and pool board needs new wheels and i want some a little more like my longboard wheels so I was thinking of the 3dm cambrias, or the new retro zig zags but I need to know if these are good for carving and sliding in the bowl, and if they are good for going off the coping compared to say a hard 57 mm spitfire. I'm looking at the harder duros in the high 80's or low 90's. any input would be great, thanks guys.
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GOS S9 wheel
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On 1/8/2007
cam
wrote in from
Australia
(58.166.nnn.nnn)
how do the S9 nineball 76mm wheels go.i am considering a set for a 29"cruiser board (homemade) similar to the S9 city crusher, which will mostly be used for commuting,pumping and cruising to the beach but going kinda fast.any ideas how this board would go.??
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thanks
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On 1/6/2007 craig
wrote in from
South Africa
(196.25.nnn.nnn)
interesting ideas about coning the wheels. I'll remember that. and I've an eye on seismics.
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S.A. photos, Craig, Stu
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On 1/6/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.68.nnn.nnn)
Herbn, I'd guess they are 'dropped thru' trucks. The wheel's tops are at deck level.
Craig, with those big, soft, Flywheels, you should do a "search" (or ask J.G. himself) on John Gilmour's description of 'the sharpei effect', wherein a wheel's running surface actually deforms in a Wrinkled fashion under high lateral loads. I believe that's what you felt underfoot with the big Flywheels. I've felt it with the 'old' series (amber in color) 83mm Flywheels even on my luge, as well as on a Landy dropped deck. The core is huge on those, and with a soft duro urethane, they'd 'hop' just before sliding. Not a nice feeling on some of the tighter twistback turns in my neck-of-the-woods. We cure this with some creative belt-sanding, adding an 8mm profile radius on the outside, and 3mm tapered coning effect with a 14mm radius on the inside.This made the wheels a bit slower, but much more predictable. (in Slalom, even 'center-set' wheels benefit from a slight amount of coning in gaining traction. Egded profiles make wheels grip harder, and radiused edges let them slide a bit.) Not that I recommend this for newer wheels, as I prefer to 'wear them in' and then reshape IF needed. Flywheels, being center-set, are easy to wear in, just flip 'em, as you rotate them from front-to-rear.
Gumballs don't do the 'hop', but rather break to a slide pretty smoothly, though at a fairly high sideload when they do let go.(hence, I like them for Super-G)
Strikers are shaped with slides in mind, having a narrower contact, and a defined radiused edge. I'd think they'd be plenty fast on smoother, newer tar, certain as good as any Kryptonic in the same size class.
Meanwhile, keep an eye on the Seismic Speed Vents. I think they've got potential, but you'll need to run them for yourself to see if they fit your style
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stu's board
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On 1/6/2007 craig
wrote in from
South Africa
(196.25.nnn.nnn)
He's got Magun trucks. You know them? Super fly, expensive, nicely finished swiss trucks. They are already very low, but I'm pretty sure they're also dropped.
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stu's set up
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On 1/6/2007 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
are his trucks dropped through? it's hard to see, looks similar in ride height to my board.
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ol faith's
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On 1/6/2007 C
wrote in from
South Africa
(198.54.nnn.nnn)
I spent my last two races on 90mm 75a flywheels...great on straights, but in turns, they felt like they wanted tip me over the top...very uncomfy. I guess cos their centre of g is too high.
Here is Luis. nice and low. fast.
Stu, also super fast. Low.
Clumsy fool. Trying not to fall over the outside of his board. Me.
I tried to go low, which was fine on my coned flat-spotted Kryptonics. Preferably, I would like to have been tucking...higher than Stu and Luis...sliding, fast, smooth, no hands. But the only race-worthy wheels I had were these big monsters. If I went low, they started bucking, bouncing and jumping...unless I did a full-on layback slide, which slowed me down too much. Only option was this awkward, high, aviation-style high-positioned stand-up slide. If I tucked anymore, they'd send me over the starboard keel into the hay
By no means am I saying I'd be as fast as Stu and Luis if I had different wheels. But I was damn uncomfortable on the monsters.
Well that's my wheel rant. I'm back to my scrubbed ol' kryps for fun skating, till I find something else I like riding.
Cheers
C
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what can replace Krypto 76+mm? Striker?
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On 1/6/2007 Craig
wrote in from
South Africa
(198.54.nnn.nnn)
For downhill racing as well as for cruising, are strikers comparable to krypto's?
I like what most racers like about kryptos...they go fast, they stick enough in the turns, and if you start sliding, they are predictable. If you have no cash to buy a variety, you buy a few sets of krypto 76mm (or bigger) pink and they're good for any road. Versatile. And when they're old, they're still flappin' great.
But I beieve we can't get the old US urethane for Kryptos anymore, and the Euro eura doesn't ride the same...so are strikers an alternative?
My Abec 11 experience hasn't been great yet. Gumballs and flashbacks feel nice and stick. But they just aren't fast enough. And when you push the corner too hard, they "bounce". And when they get old they seem to lose all predictability entirely.
Flywheels have a place in my bag...but if the race hill is turny and needs agility, they feel bulky, and I can't predict their slide.
Basically my old faithfulls are gone, and I'm looking for a new faithful, and strikers look nice, but I don't know anyone who rides them.
Help?
Thanks.
C
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Spacers
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On 1/5/2007
Thomas Groover
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
Spacers are not absolutely necessary. Some completes will come without spacers included. Spacers do assist the weight distribution between the bearings, but will not make a significant improvement in your ride unless you are racing. As a general rule, I always use spacers just to prevent excess loading on one set of bearings, but, if for some reason I do not have spacers available for my wheels, I'll just ride without them - no big deal. Nowadays I just use Biltin bearings so I don't have to f*@! around with all the spacers and speed rings. They cost me $20.00 a set, but it's worth sparing the meticulous effort of properly aligning multiple parts.
- you don't need spacers
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spacers
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On 1/4/2007 mikey
wrote in from
United States
(69.250.nnn.nnn)
how do u explain that when i took off my sector 9 nineballs thier was no spacers? i thought alllongboard wheels should have the spacers in them. my sctor nine didnt have anythin in thier and it seemed to roll perfect and smooth
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Spaced out, dude
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On 1/4/2007
Geezer-X
wrote in from
United States
(65.127.nnn.nnn)
All skateboard wheels need spacers.
Actually, all skateboard BEARINGS need spacers, except Abec11 Biltins.
The spacer is what allows the sideload to be shared by both bearings. The only bearings I've seen grenade in slalom skating are those which have been used without spacers and "cranked down to control speed" which sometimes results in a 3 wheel skateboard and a nasty, sudden crash. It's the bearings that pay, not the wheels.
Spacers are important to the degree that I only use precision made steel spacers anymore.
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Flashback wheel spacers
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On 1/4/2007 mikey
wrote in from
United States
(69.250.nnn.nnn)
Hey does anyone non if abec flashback need spacers. i just got mine in the mail and my old wheels didnt have spacers in them. do i need them for these new wheels? somone help before i f#@! up my wheels
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Jay ADams cruizer wheels
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On 1/1/2007 nokfir2
wrote in from
United States
(69.250.nnn.nnn)
hey jason, the abec bertz would be perfect for that board. i have a zflex jay adams as well but i have the stock zsmooth wheels with siesmic trucks beacuse i really only use it for ditch skating so i need a smooth wheel. but if u want a wheel almost identical to what they were using in the movie and back then, u should go with the reissue Cadillac wheels 56mm 92a. these wheels will be really hard but good for smooth parks and corcrete. theyll also slide nice. go with the abec bertz if u wanna carve, cadillacs if ur gunna do some smott park riding.
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wheel choice on my new mini
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On 1/1/2007 jason
wrote in from
United States
(65.244.nnn.nnn)
getting a new jay adams cuizer for a mini this chirstmas, trying to decide between the 60mm retro bertz wheels (81A) or the 63mm amber tunnel rocks in 82A. i just cant decide if i'll need the little extra speed fromt the 63mm wheels or if i'll have more fun on the little 60 mm bertz like they used in the lords of dogtown movie. those wheels look like they get plenty of speed and they look like tons of fun to slide around parks and pools on... advice would be awesome...
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Nine Balls
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On 12/30/2006 nokfir
wrote in from
United States
(68.194.nnn.nnn)
hey can anyone please tell me what the contact width is on sector 9 Nineballs 65mm 78a. im tryin to buy new wheels and i wanna compare them my nineballs. i looked on every site, none seem to have the contact patch width listed. thanks
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Coning wear
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On 12/29/2006 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.68.nnn.nnn)
Nic, one way to minimized the degree your wheels cone is switch them out front-to-rear on a fairly regular basis. Get a permanent Sharpie pen, and mark your wheels on the inside (near the truck axle) back with these; RR,+ LR for the right/left Rear, and RF,+ LF for the right/left Front wheels. Now you can move them from axle-to-axle and kinda keep track of how long they've been there. If you see the wear starting to be noticeable, switch them out again. In noting which is Left or right, you'll also see if you beat on one side (continuous Left Turns?) more than the other.
Center-set bearing wheels (like ABEC 11 NoSkools or Grippens) can be reversed to even out wear. You simply flip the wheel around, no real need to rotate them front-to-rear, unless you're doing a good bit of sliding.
Lastly, you can use a belt-sander to even out wear (I've even used a Lathe), which can make wheels last quite awhile longer. This is especially true with wheels that get used in sliding or hard pumping, as those things tend to wear the wheels to an out-of-round condition quickly. Turning or belting can bring an un-round wheel back to nearly round with just a bit of work.
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wheel coning
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On 12/29/2006 bara
wrote in from
United States
(204.78.nnn.nnn)
from park boards in the 70's to top line slalom boards today, rear wheels always coned from the inner edge out...and the fronts from the outer edge in.
Your wheels are adjusting to their natural shape based on the friction they are being applied to......allot of slalom skaters will tell you that a reversed-coned rear wheel grips better than an unconed one
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Sidewinder speedwobble solutions
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On 12/29/2006
awlms
wrote in from
Dominican Republic
(200.88.nnn.nnn)
Sidewinders and speedwobbles?? No problem. All you need to do to get the speed stability of a normal Gullwing type truck is to reduce the effect of insert, which with the extra pivot and bushings, gives the Sidewinders the hyper turning abilities. If you freeze or lock this insert in place you basically have the functioning of a regular 2 bushing truck. The easiest way to do this, is as follows:
1. Remove the kingpin nut on the insert. 2. Add a large bushing washer--the same washers used on all 1" LOWER barrel bushings---to the smaller washer already installed on the truck insert. You now have an insert with a small washer to retain the top bushing and a larger washer on top to make contact with the mounting collar on the insert. 3.Tighten the insert down hard and it is locked in place, restricting about 80% of the inserts flexibility-- so, pretty much only the hanger will be providing the turning capabilities. Also, for normal carving/pumping etc. the additional washer can be left in place as it doesn't seem to cause extra problems.
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coning
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On 12/28/2006
Robin
wrote in from
Sweden
(194.68.nnn.nnn)
The preasure is greater on the inside depending on if your bearings are centred or not. pushing any slides? because that is the most probable reason why they´re coning.
It´s nice that tou´re coning them, that means you´re using them! =)
// Robin
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coning
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On 12/27/2006 nic
wrote in from
United States
(69.236.nnn.nnn)
my sector 9 wheels are coning the inside of the wheel is smaller than than the out side (where the lip is) is that normal for them to cone that way
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Abec flashbacks
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On 12/26/2006 dan
wrote in from
United States
(68.194.nnn.nnn)
hey psr, as for your skating inthe phenoix heat example, im from ny but i skate in baltimore, its about 30 derees out. that dont stop me tho, i just pile on some warm clothes and go rip it. it makes it that much more like snowboarding... hahah
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