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| Deck Reviews (10390 Posts)
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Tail Guards
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On 10/11/2004 PA Dan
wrote in from
United States
(209.23.nnn.nnn)
Thanks, Ethan.
I found that Sk8supply.com has NOS Powell Tail Bones.
I think that will work.
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Custom Tailgaurds
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On 10/11/2004 Ethan
wrote in from
United States
(192.12.nnn.nnn)
Hey PA Dan,
You might not want o buy one of the ones I had made. actually. Turns out the plastic I picked is a bit too brittle and they are grinding away very quickly on the rough streetsOnly have 2 left. Next batch I have made up will use a softer plastic and hopefully last longer and scub off more speed when I tailgrind. I'll email you before I have them made, if you want I can add a few more to the order..
Tap Plastics is a Northern California based plastic chain. http://www.tapplastics.com/
You might have a similar business in your area. Worth looking into, because once you have a source for good custom plastic you can also make you own slide-gloves.
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Landyachtz
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On 10/11/2004 Paul
wrote in from
United States
(129.82.nnn.nnn)
I have posted recently on this subject, I am looking for a Carbon Fibre Landyachtz R-IV, does anybody know where i can get one? I know they dont make them anymore but im willing to pay a fairly substantial amount for one in good condtion.
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Comet Tiki Tail Guards
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On 10/9/2004
PA Dan
wrote in from
United States
(209.23.nnn.nnn)
On 9/7/2004 Ethan wrote
"PS: got TAP Plastic to make me up a half-dozen custom tailguards for my tiki so I can tailgrind down these steep SF hills...cost me $14 each tho..kinda pricy but fits perfect."
Ethan, you didn't post your e-mail. I'd like to buy one (or more) of those tail guards. Please e-mail me if you'd like to sell one or put me in touch with TAP Plastic.
Thanks,
Dan
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Bite
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On 10/8/2004 Chief Red Beef
wrote in from
United States
(24.185.nnn.nnn)
On a board with a nose it's really impossible to avoid bite without either cutting the sh#t out of it or jacking it up.
If you run one kind of truck, and only one kind of truck, on the deck you can do cutouts or wells and eliminate the problem but if you swap trucks around like I tend to do you find for instance, that Seismics will hit the board way ahead of where Randalls do.
In order to eliminate bite on a board that sometimes has Randalls and sometimes has Seismics you have to take a huge chunk out of it. Too much.
What's wrong with risers?
I actually like the feeling of a board that is jacked up a little bit.
Turns easier.
There is only one arguement for keeping it as low as possible and that's stability.
Most of you guys don't need that kind of stability.
The arguement that a low board is easier to push is kind of lame.
Boards are for riding, not pushing.
Wheel bite sucks way more than haveing to deal with your board being 3/8" or 1/2" higher.
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wheelbite
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On 10/8/2004
G7enn
wrote in from
United States
(64.27.nnn.nnn)
The bones bushings are black bottoms on the bottom and yellow bottoms on the top. the only washers used are small diameter thick ones to correct the angle for the thinner bushings.
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Pleasure Point Santa Cruz Vintage Deck For Sale
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On 10/7/2004
ghostcavalry
wrote in from
United States
(24.74.nnn.nnn)
just listed on eBay. Thanks for having a look!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7106558587
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Landyachtz drop speed
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On 10/7/2004
sean
wrote in from
United States
(63.105.nnn.nnn)
I would like to buy landyachtz drop speed deck only
sean
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Carbon Fibre R-IV
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On 10/7/2004 Paul
wrote in from
United States
(129.82.nnn.nnn)
I was looking around and wanted to buy a Landyachtz Carbon R-iv does anybody have one that they would like to sell or trade, preferrably sell?
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On 10/7/2004 Bob
wrote in from
United States
(66.122.nnn.nnn)
When using Khiro (Insert Bushings) you do not need to use the cup washers.
check them out at www.khiroskateboardproducts.com there are 5 hardness to
choose from.
See Yah!
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bones bushings
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On 10/7/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
which bones bushings? which hardness, old blue is the softest, but even so the washer part of the bushing barely compresses,i'd say not at all,but it probabely gives just a bit.
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Wheelbite
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On 10/5/2004
G7enn
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(84.9.nnn.nnn)
While we are trying to make the complete list of contributary factors, i'd add:
bushing design and thickness
I have 74mm Flywheels on RIIs with 1/4" risers mounted on a 44" proflex and get no wheelbite with bones hardcores. This was not true on the Randall bushings. I'm not sure if it's the relative thinness (even though I use all bottom bushings) or the hard core not compressing or a bit of both. It really does make a difference though.
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Toddc
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On 10/5/2004
rj
wrote in from
United States
(63.173.nnn.nnn)
Sorry i was misunderstood. I make a deck that has zero wheel bite....i have tried to get it to bite....won't happen. You can see pics at www.sinemaskateboards.com on the products page. "the skinny puppy". The drop through nose design is killer. Only problem with the skinny puppy is my deck guy cut them an inch to narrow. 7.5" in the ceter so they are great for cruising but sag at 3/4" thick so a little to much bounce for downhill. I am working on a wider model. so far i have a 10" with a 9.5" center with the same nose. Great deck just a little heavy so i don't know if it will pass igsa specs.
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bite
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On 10/4/2004
toddc
wrote in from
United States
(68.125.nnn.nnn)
RJ, hit me with an email and I'll do what I can. I ride RII's and have a few templates that may help you. If you see Chaput's post with the 90mm wheels, you'll see what you are after, though you may want something a bit more, ahem, cosmetically appealing.
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Brad Edwards board: for Jack
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On 10/4/2004
brad
wrote in from
United States
(216.233.nnn.nnn)
I have a BE40 and it's an awesome board. but it is designed by BE for skatepark skating. it is ok for cruising and sliding, and BE can do anything on it, being the pro that he is. but i don't see the point in buying a board designed for skatepark riding to be used for cruising
the Gravity hypercarve would work better for this purpose, although personally, i think 40" is the best length
i prefer my Landyachtz Evo, 40" the same as the BE40, for cruising, downhill, and sliding. it has a comfortable concave, and wide front where you can position your front foot with the concave keeping your front foot where it belongs, it is dropped, so you are really close to the ground for sliding and general stability
and it is just an unbelievable ride as much as i liked the BE40 which i used to use for cruising and sliding, this board is just infinitely better for this purpose. nd
i set it up with Randal 180s, khiro bushings and bones swiss bearings, and found the ABEC11 wheels handle the rough terrain much better than the Gravity wheels, of which i have tried every variety.
why buy a board designed for one purpose to be used for another?
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Wheel bite
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On 10/4/2004
rj
wrote in from
United States
(63.173.nnn.nnn)
Tod,
How wide is the nose? Did you get bite in the front or back? I make custom boards too. I can send you a nose template to fix the wheel bite problem mattering on what the deck looks like now. I ride mine with drop thru 160mm randal downhill hangers and 83mm abec 11s' with zero bite on hard turns.
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wheelbite
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On 10/2/2004 toddc
wrote in from
United States
(68.125.nnn.nnn)
cut outs are the answer - plain and simple - and sometime ugly.
I recently had a custom deck made for me - where I specified no wheel bite - RIIs, 1/8" riser and any wheel up to 83mm - it was delivered and it "bit" on 75mms. I guess that's why jigsaws were invented. I will not carve a hill at 25+ mph that has ANY chance at wheelbite. It's that simple. I'd rather have an ugly deck than an ugly fall.
One alternative that I like are the "foamies" - like Pistols where the "riser" is basically built in thanks to the thinness of the edge (top) and the thickness of the core (bottom) that combine for about 3/8 " built in riser, with a thin, light deck. Of course you could never run anything much over 70mm without adding a stack of risers to these too.
My suggestion...stay low, and cut it out!
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Widths, Turn Limiters
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On 10/2/2004
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
United States
(66.116.nnn.nnn)
I agree with Roger that the width of the hanger could also be added to the list, but really what we're talking about is how wide the hanger/wheel-width combo is. For that matter, it's not really the width of the wheel because different bearing seats change the position of the outside edge of the wheel. For example, Centerset Grippins are wider than sideset Flashbacks but the Flashbacks put the outside edge of the wheel further away from the end of the hanger. A 5 inch hanger with Grippins is as wide as a 4 inch hanger with Flashbacks.
I hate turn limiters. The reason why is because they limit the turn but they don't always prevent wheelbite. I've set turn limiters so that the wheels stop before they hit the board. That's when the board is upside down on the workbench and I'm pushing the wheels down toward the board. While riding however, my feet actually flex the board down to a level where the wheel bites. I learned this the hard way. Ouch.
Basically, in order to properly set the turn limiters (I'm assuming that we're trying to avoid wheelbite and not to simply limit the turn), you have to see how far you can apply pressure in a turn before your wheels will rub. That seems like exactly what I have to do without turn limiters - make a ballpark adjustment and hope for the best.
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wheelbite woes (cont)
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On 10/2/2004
roger
wrote in from
United States
(4.29.nnn.nnn)
“Hanger width” should be added to the list of things that effect wheelbite (rather than consider it indistinct of “geometry”).
“Angle Limiters”, devices that limit how much a truck can lean (found in Exkate torsion trucks and the new Up Trucks) should be added to the list. They can be constructed by placing a block on the belly of a deck that engages the hanger prior to the wheels making contact.
“Shoes/stance” are also a potential location of wheelbite – especially with decks that have big cutouts.
It is useful to categorize wheelbites since they tend to have different concerns and solutions:
1. traction surface of wheel contacts edge of deck
2. outside corner of wheel contacts belly of deck
3. inside corner of wheel contacts edge of deck
4. wheel contacts shoe (stance or act of pushing)
(to be exhaustively thorough, we can also consider wheels contacting wheels or decks of other riders, haybales, and other terrain features, but we have terms of tangling up and collision that are more suitable)
Qualitatively, some wheelbites behave like a smooth and progressive brake, while others have a sharp grab. Many wheelbites occur with the edge of a deck contacting the flat traction area of a wheel – the sharper the edges of the deck the more aggressive the bite. Sanding a wheel well so that a wheel deck engages a flat spot in the deck (relative to the orientation of the wheel) rather than a sharp edge can change an aggressive wheelbite into a progressive wheelrub.
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Board for Chris
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On 10/2/2004 Jim R
wrote in from
United States
(67.100.nnn.nnn)
go to www.cometskateboards.com and check out the Scramjet... may be what you are looking for....
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Comet Lost Contact 36"
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On 10/1/2004
BillyBonebrake
wrote in from
United States
(24.45.nnn.nnn)
Anyone riding one of these? I'm looking for a pool/park board with a rocker profile. Is this what I'm looking for?
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Wheelbite Woes
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On 10/1/2004
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
United States
(66.116.nnn.nnn)
Chris, There are at least 10 things that prevent or promote wheelbite:
1. The diameter (height) of the wheel
2. The width of the wheel
3. The shape of the wheel
4. The shape/width of the board
5. The concave of the board
6. The wheelwells of the board
7. The riser pads
8. The height of the truck
9. The geometry of the truck
10. The tightness of the truck
1. The taller the wheel, the closer it is to the bottom of the board and the more likely it is to bite.
2. If the board is so wide that the edge of the wheel hits the bottom of the deck, wider wheels will rub earlier than narrower wheels.
3. Hard edged wheels rub on the bottom of the deck earlier than radiused edge wheels.
4. Boards that are wide near the trucks, boards without cutouts, without holes or without a cutaway design are more prone to wheelbite.
5. Wheels will rub into flat boards before they rub into a decks with concave. To a lesser extent, wheels will rub into a cambered deck before a rockered deck.
6. Well placed wheelwells will help to prevent wheelbite. Wheelwells can be combined with cutouts or cutaway designs for added clearance.
7. Riser pads add clearance. They also add to the ride height except on drop-through decks where they become "lowering pads".
8. Some trucks are way taller than others. The taller they are, the less the tendency for wheelbite. R-IIs are tall, Downhills are shorter.
9. The faster turning the truck, the less that you have to lean in order to navigate the same arc on slower turning trucks. R-IIs are taller and have a faster (50 degree) geometry compared to the slower turning (35 degree) Downhill trucks.
10. Super loose trucks allow the wheels to bite more easily even though cranking them down puts the axles closer to the deck.
Although I usually run a low CG drop-through speedboard with big cutouts and slow turning trucks for downhill, I ran a very different setup in Albuquerque. The course didn't have any tight turns and so I decided to see how my prototype "MasterCarve" would work. It's a 45" concave deck with a cutaway shape. It uses quick turning R-II baseplates and 1/8" risers on the bottom. In addition to the cutaways, I have wheelwells for added clearance. Although this board has the same axle-to-axle wheelbase as my speedboard, I don't have to lean it too much because of the trucks's geometry. As a result, I was able to run 90mm wheels without any problems with wheelbite. In the first and third picture below, you can see the MasterCarve setup not having to lean as much. In the second picture, you can see how the big the cutouts allow clearance for a 97mm wheel.
Cutaway design and wheelwells with R-II baseplates, 1/8" risers and 90mm wheels.
Cutouts on a drop-through deck with Downhill baseplates, 1/8" lowers and 97mm wheels.
You can see that I don't have to lean as much as the other guys with the quicker turning trucks.
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thanks for the posts
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On 10/1/2004 chris
wrote in from
United States
(68.98.nnn.nnn)
i dont think the board im looking for exsist but your feedback will help me find a good compromise thanks
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Wheelbite
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On 10/1/2004
Joe Iacovelli
wrote in from
United States
(63.87.nnn.nnn)
Rory,
You've got a couple choices.
Tighten your trucks
Bigger truck risers
Smaller Wheels
Cut outs
How is your board setup now?
Whatever you do, see if you can get the wheels to touch in your living room at 0 miles per hour.
Don't make this same mistake twice
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Wheelbite?
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On 10/1/2004 Rory
wrote in from
United States
(152.42.nnn.nnn)
Guys-
I was obviously having a very good time walking around my new b-ride and "testing out its limitations" by doing some aggressive carving down a very steep hill, when I took one of the most painfull falls I have yet experienced. Thankfully nothing broken, but a sprained wrist, ankle, and road rash all over me as a result of shorts/t-shirt really f#@!ing hurt... My memory is a bit hazy of the crash, but my buddy said that my board came to an abrupt halt, and i went flying down this hill. I blame wheelbite. Are there any alterations I could do, cut wells? etc., to prevent this from happening? It really sucked to fall, but i want to be able to do the sliding i was doing right before i ate complete s#@!... it was fun.
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