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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 1/12/2004
Mark B
wrote in from
(167.206.nnn.nnn)
Does any body have a template for an old school park board?
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On 1/11/2004
Jed
wrote in from
(65.19.nnn.nnn)
This may sound like a stupid question.. but here goes.
I just started setting up my jig for a cambered board. I want about 1.5 inches of camber, with a 25% bounce back, I made the jig with 2" at 1/3. after looking at the curve, the top of the curve was approxamately 1/2 of the way backand there was about 2.5"inches of camber. Physics baisically explains it.. I just want to make sure that its OK.. and know weather I should continue, or make a new jig with 2" half way back. If one of you could point me in the right direction, it would be great.
Thanks
Jed
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On 1/9/2004
Doug K
wrote in from
(64.222.nnn.nnn)
Steve,
I second your post.
The search works very well.
Doug
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On 1/9/2004
Steve Hopper
wrote in from
(207.202.nnn.nnn)
All you new guys out there just getting into building boards should really take advantage of the "Search" function on this site. It's under "Tools" in the navigation above. You can search this very forum going all the way back to the beginning. 3 years! Pretty much any question you can dream up has been answered here at some point. Solid wood, plywood, wood veneer, ABS, glue, fiberglass, carbon, kevlar, epoxy, polyester, vinylester, presses, molds, clamps, car tires, vacuum-bagging, and on... and on... and on... It truly is a VAST wealth of knowledge!
There's also a ton of great info that can be applied to skateboard building on www.swaylocks.com (a surfboard building site). Especially when it comes to questions about fiberglassing.
Good luck!
Steve
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On 1/8/2004
Doug K
wrote in from
(64.222.nnn.nnn)
I am refinishing a small wooden hydroplane that I built a long time ago. I have added the beginning page to my site. I wanted to post it here because the materials and methods are the same as deck building - working with and shaping wood, laminating, using epoxy, finishing etc. For those interested this is the link:
http://www.geocities.com/dpkumph/Boat_Building.htm
I will update as the project progresses. I hope to put the boat in the water this spring/summer
Doug
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On 1/8/2004
Doug K
wrote in from
(64.222.nnn.nnn)
hugh R , henry,
Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated. Hugh - I will add more pictures and details of my bench mounted mold this week and post here when the page is up. This link shows some pictures which you may have seen before:
(http://www.geocities.com/dpkumph/board_building_8_foammold.htm)
I have modified the set-up slighly since these pictures and I will add more detail about how it is fastened and how I go about putting it together when pressing a deck. It allows for adjustment to camber. I can add or remove shims to create more or less depending on the deck I am building. It takes about 40 minutes from start (mixing epoxy) to finish (finish tightening the last clamp).
The tanker deck is a bit flexy for my 160 lbs and a 42" wheelbase. I had thought about adding a stringer, but I think (after some feedback from Brad over at Nor'easter) that I am just going to put it back into the mold and add another layer of baltic. probably 1/8 should do it. This will be the simplest solution. Perhaps I will inlay some hardwood on the next edition. I will take pictures and post progress to my pages.
Thanks again, It is mornings like this (-5 degrees and windy) that I dream of those warm, sunny southern CA hills rolling by under my feet in my parrallel (sp?) life.
Doug
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On 1/7/2004
Tom Hansen
wrote in from
(209.206.nnn.nnn)
hey,
my friend and i are attempting to make our own boards, and we got a jig built. But we have no idea what type of wood to use. So if anybody has any suggestions and price ranges it would be cool if you'd email me with some advice.
-Tom
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On 1/7/2004
Jed
wrote in from
(65.19.nnn.nnn)
Hey all..
Just getting into longboard construction, and wondring if there is any magic formula to find out how much camber to put in. I am building a 48 inch board out of 2 layers of 5 ply baltic birch (approx 1/4"). Eventually i want to build a jig, but it dosent make much sense until I know what kinda shape I need. Also, has anyone tried alternating layers of glass with wood? how did the board hold up?
thanks
Jed
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On 1/7/2004 henry
wrote in from
(172.182.nnn.nnn)
Yes, awesome plank. Smooth and clean shape, and again, the camber and concave look very nice. Doug, you show us where it's at. Hope you got the hills for such a big carver. Congratulations for that thing. Makes me want to go at my own workbench, if it wasn't too late so i could annoy the neighbours...
I'm stoked. Keep it going, man.
I'd really like to know how that board rides. Hope you let us know by the time.
great job, henry
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On 1/7/2004 hugh r
wrote in from
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Doug,
Great looking board! Can you cover a little bit about your mold and pressing techniques?? HR
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On 1/7/2004
Doug K
wrote in from
(64.222.nnn.nnn)
I have updated my web site to include pictures of the tanker I am working on. I am not sure tanker is the right word, but its the biggest shaped deck I have made. The link is:
http://www.geocities.com/dpkumph/tanker.htm
I would appreciate any feedback (positive or otherwise)
Doug K
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On 1/6/2004
Doug K
wrote in from
(66.31.nnn.nnn)
mark b
check this site. specifically, "the first instruction"
http://www.geocities.com/toothlesslongboards/
Doug K
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On 1/6/2004
Mark B
wrote in from
(24.186.nnn.nnn)
does any one know how to make a board with camber?
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On 1/2/2004
Brad
wrote in from
(66.217.nnn.nnn)
Erik,
A good way to bend the board? is this a solid piece of wood?...then is must
involve water or steam, pressure and time. If it is plies you are talking about, there are plenty
of good people here that have made contraptions to get that part done. You need
to mention if the wood is solid or plies. plies tend to be Hard rock Maple
(1/16") or Baltic Birch (1/4"). if it's solid, then Oak is a time tested wood.
It is however, like riding a rock...no give at all...Maple could be a better choice,
and easier to bend. When using plies, the vacuum bagging method has gotten good reviews
by Doug K. He has had very good results with this. others use a meriad of clamps, and a
wooden form. the wooden form is absolutely crucial..it must be symmetrical. tough to
do in 3 dimensions.
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On 1/1/2004 Shane B
wrote in from
(216.127.nnn.nnn)
Iam making a board in woodshop, i'll show you dudes when Iam done with it.
its gonna be oldschool
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On 1/1/2004
Eric
wrote in from
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Hey, I am gonna start makin my own skatboards and i found out a good way to bend the board and shape it. What kind of wood should I use? Thanks
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On 1/1/2004
BillF
wrote in from
(65.141.nnn.nnn)
Happy '04 all.
I saw a long board at a local shop that had a finish that I want to duplicate on a couple of projects I have going. It was simply stained and urethaned with a clear texture finish. No grip tape needed. It was gorgeous. Anyone know what sort of finish and texture could be clear like I described? Thanks, Bill
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On 12/31/2003
Doug K
wrote in from
(66.31.nnn.nnn)
John,
With what you want to do vacuum bagging is the way to go. You dont have to spend tons of money to get a good vacuum bag. check the Roarockit page (banner at the right) You can get a manual vacuum bag set up that works great and will make your project come out as slick as possible for 30 bucks. For the time you are putting into this project, don't short yourself this great kit. You can use it over and over again.
By the way, whats the new character counter at the bottom of the page?
Doug K
Happy New Year, dont drink too much, you will miss the great skiing and riding to be had while others are in bed hungover!
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On 12/31/2003 John
wrote in from
(66.207.nnn.nnn)
Hey.
Thanks for yaws help. Im sorry i did not specify that i did want to cover the deck with some type of fibreglass. But what im going to do is pour somthing like plaster of paris or gypsim in a narrow container and put my z-wood remake in there and make a cast of it. Then i plan to fiberglass the cast and pour pour foam in the cast . Using mold relese agents hopefully the foam core will pop out true to the cast. then i will cover it with fiberglass. But see i dont want to spend tons of money on a special oven or a vaccume bagging device.
So, does any one know what is the best way to do this?
Thanks, John
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On 12/30/2003
Doug K
wrote in from
(66.31.nnn.nnn)
Dunn,
I use the epoxy to laminate as it comes. I am not supplementing any other glue. Sorry for the confusion. I have laminated with four types of two-part epoxy including the John Greer stuff which has worked very well and is very inexpensive.
let me know if you have any other questions
Happy new year
Doug
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On 12/30/2003 WesE
wrote in from
(208.59.nnn.nnn)
Anyone know where I can get rolls of griptape in 1/2 inch width?
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On 12/30/2003
WAsurf
wrote in from
(63.127.nnn.nnn)
Hello. Would anyone be willing to share bending techniques for 9 ply? I just finished my first home brew skate and would like the next one to have a bit of tail kick to it. I'm contemplating the 'ol car tire and block trick, but thought I'd ask here. Thanks in advance for any info.
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On 12/30/2003 Dunn
wrote in from
(205.162.nnn.nnn)
Question for Doug K re: AeroMarine Epoxy #300/11 from John Greer & Associates.
Is this a supplement to your glue? Or do you lamenate with the epoxy only?
Thanks..
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On 12/29/2003
Doug K
wrote in from
(66.31.nnn.nnn)
Henry,
Yes I am going to put a page up on my site dedicated to my tanker. It is really shaping up nice (no pun intended). I have let my site go somewhat with regard to updates - this will be a perfect time for some updating. Thanks for the encouragement and I will post up sometime within the next couple of weeks.
I have got the shape cut out and rough sanded. It looks great. Now, based on some initial testing, I need to epoxy a stringer down the middle to stiffen. My wheelbase is 42" if I remember right. I will post pics of the rough sanded deck through completion. I plan to stretch my artistic abilities with the paint job and getting feedback from this forum should be entertaining....
doug
Doug K
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On 12/29/2003
Steve Hopper
wrote in from
(207.202.nnn.nnn)
BillF,
Gorilla Glue is great stuff! The only thing to watch for is that it foams as it cures. Make sure you have everything properly aligned and clamp/press it in place HARD. Otherwise the plys will have a tendency to float and drift as the glue foams up. Make sure you lay something down to catch the glue that foams out the sides too. Mylar works great for this. Just lay a sheet of mylar (slighly wider and longer than the deck) directly under the bottom ply when you press it. Waxed paper would work too. If you don't put something down to catch the overflow, you risk gluing the board to the press and screwing up both.
The only other downside is that it stains your skin so wear gloves.
Steve
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