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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 1/25/2004 Mr. Curious
wrote in from
(24.185.nnn.nnn)
For all of you who are afraid to attempt wheel wells because it seems a little difficult (like me), fear not.
I've been afraid to do it for fear of f#@!ing up and ruining a deck. The methods for doing this seem to be belt sander (200 bucks), sanding drum (finding one big enough seems to be impossible), or some kind of half round rasp (uh...no).
I decided to experiment on a deck I did'nt care too much about.
What I did was use a stick on sanding disk, 60 grit (available at just about any hardware store) and stuck it to a large wheel (Avila). The one I had did'nt quite fit all the way around but I pieced the remaining gap from the scrap and it worked just fine.
Some old bearings, a bolt long enough to go through the wheel and into a drill and a bolt cranked down so that the bearing does'nt spin and, voilla.
What I ended up with are perfect wheel wells and it only took me about 10 minutes.
It was much easier than I thought it would be and the results were outstanding.
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On 1/24/2004
Pauliwog
wrote in from
(64.5.nnn.nnn)
ERIC FROM 1-17-04 Mr I want a Fishtail
Hey, give me a call at (541)754-7826 or bird041167@yahoo.com . The phone is better as we don't have a computer at home. Leave a message if we're gone. I mostly do 16-17" wheelbases, round (not bevelled)concave, and nothing less than 9" wide or popsickle sticks. Also a good place to look is Factory 13 and some of the other small companies advertized in Concrete Wave. Adios - Paul Howard
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On 1/23/2004 matthew ferguson
wrote in from
(217.42.nnn.nnn)
i made a skateboard out of wood and rollor skate trucks and its pretty good also go onto www.geocities.com/aceofspades900/sc
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On 1/23/2004 Mr. Curious
wrote in from
(24.185.nnn.nnn)
I think some of you misunderstand.
I apply the glass then epoxy and squeegee it out.
At this point there are no bubbles.
None.
After a while bubbles form and continue to form thru out the curing process.
See?
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On 1/23/2004 Slount
wrote in from
(193.128.nnn.nnn)
Oh yes, I've had bubbles too - though I varnished a board first - DOn't do that - I felt like crying BOohoo, as It buubled like crazy, chemical reaction I think. I'm using Blue Gee systems fibreglass. Whay I'd like to know is
•How many layers are people using •should I pre-cut the fibre first
•How do I get the edges to stick down, or when pre-cutting should I cut so that it fits on the top and bottom surface first?• what happens when you sand back the glass?
Although my first attempt was a f#@!-up, I found it very easy initially to apply the goo 1st and then lay the fibre on top and squeege thru that.
Cheers
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On 1/21/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
Always wet the glass first. The best bet is to use a very smooth working surface with a dark color. That way, air bubbles remaining in the glass will show up very easily. I like to use a scrap piece of countertop, people throw them out all the time. I paint the glass thoroughly, turn it over, paint a bit more, then squeegee excess resin off. Properly wetted out, the glass will nearly disappear against the dark background. Bubbles will be light and easy to see. It is much easier to flip the glass, and pick it up in the first place, if you tape the edges with packing tape. The best way to do this is to tape them before cutting off the roll, then cut the tape in half, it makes handling the pieces so much easier and eliminates the dreaded fraying strands, which always seems to get irreversibly stuck right in the middle of the project
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On 1/21/2004 jason
wrote in from
(141.151.nnn.nnn)
oh yea,
i had some bubbling problems with the fast hardener with the west system. it turns out the fast hardener, collects more air when you stir it, and holds the tiny bubbles even through squeegieing, i have used it multiple times to do gloss coats and it was giving me bubbles, mix your hardener in with your resin gradually (say 4 pumps resin, 1 pump hardener stir, 1 pump hardener, stir, 1 part hardener, stir, 1 part, stir the last time) and stir really slowly with a plastic stirrer, if you go fast at all, it will start forming tiny bubbles you cant see till after the resin cures and it comes to the surface. you may also simply not be using enough like doug has mentioned, use the epoxy liberally, it wastes some but its worth it to know youve got good adhesion and coverage...wet the wood throughout with a good thick layer of epoxy, then lay your glass,pour lots more resin ontop over the entire surface of the glass (drizzling in thin lines all over the board is best so you dont have to work a ton of epoxy out of one location) and use a squeegie, dont use a roller, your roller may be putting air bubbles into the epoxy itself, brush on finishing coats.
peace
jason
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On 1/20/2004
Doug K
wrote in from
(24.128.nnn.nnn)
Mr. Curious,
I think you figured it out. Apply the epoxy to the wood liberally (not thin) before laying your glass. There is probably lots of hiding places for air in the dry glass on dry wood before the epoxy soaks in and displaces it all. I bet this solves it. I use have used West as well and it seems to be the least viscous (by far) epoxy that I have used (out of 4 different brands). I use the 105 resin with 206 slow hardener.
Good luck!
Doug K
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On 1/20/2004 Mr. Curious
wrote in from
(24.185.nnn.nnn)
The wood I'm using is Maple, white Oak, Mahogany, and Jatoba. The "bubbles" do seem to be happening more on the Jatoba but they appear on all of the other woods as well.
The solution to this would obviously be to seal the wood first with a coat of epoxy.
Maybe I'm doing it wrong though too. What I do is lay the glass on the board and then pour the epoxy over it and squeegee it out.
Maybe I should do a thin coat of epoxy, then lay the glass over that and pour on a little more??
I don't know.
Anyway, what appears to be happening is that as the epoxy soaks into the wood it seems to be filling holes and then bubbling out creating small pockets of air between the board and glass.
I have checked it at different times during the curing process and am able to rub out some of the pockets but it seems to be a constant thing and later on when the epoxy becomes tacky I'm not able to get rid of the pockets at all.
I'm using West Systems 30 minute epoxy.
Maybe I should use a slower cure resin.
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On 1/18/2004
BillF
wrote in from
(65.141.nnn.nnn)
Mr. Curious, what type of wood are you using? Maybe you will need to seal the wood first before the process that you described. Does sound unusual. You said 'air pockets' how big? Not tiny bubbles? Let figure this out. I know what you mean about the too much time and money for this to happen. Bill
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On 1/18/2004
BillF
wrote in from
(65.141.nnn.nnn)
credit card ceiling tiles for the kids play house??
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On 1/17/2004 TheBowmanater
wrote in from
(68.54.nnn.nnn)
The credit card idea sounds interesting. After you'r done glueing your board or a couple of layers you can use the glue left on the card to make a credit card statue with other junk credit cards. or maybe even a creit card halfpipe! New possible arts and crafts prject....hmmm......
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On 1/17/2004 Mr. Curious
wrote in from
(24.185.nnn.nnn)
Every f'in time I glass something I get these bubbles coming up from the wood and creating air pockets under the fiberglass.
Is this something that happens normaly?
How do you prevent it?
Could it just be the wood I'm using?
I've got too much time and money into these things for this to happen.
Sucks.
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On 1/17/2004
BillF
wrote in from
(65.141.nnn.nnn)
Here is a good idea, I am getting a lot of junk mail from credit card companies trying to sell me more debt. They send fake cards with 'your name here' printed on them. They make great glue spreaders. Good to get some use out of them for free then toss them. Bill
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On 1/17/2004
Eric
wrote in from
(4.35.nnn.nnn)
Besides the known custom skateboard companies, who out there makes and sells FISHTAIL boards to custom specs in a double-kick, deep-dish concave format?
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On 1/16/2004
Doug K
wrote in from
(24.128.nnn.nnn)
I posted some additional information about my foam mold and the John
Greer epoxy. The foam mold includes steps I take to make a board. Please give feedback or ask questions, some things may be unclear.
Foam mold page 5: http://www.geocities.com/dpkumph/foammold_pg5.htm
Picture of John greer epoxy on products page: http://www.geocities.com/dpkumph/products.htm
the products page is not a commercial page, just products I use when working with wood.
Doug K
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On 1/15/2004
Steve Hopper
wrote in from
(207.202.nnn.nnn)
Mike,
You may be able to successfully coat chalk and charcoal with epoxy, but anything with oil or grease involved won't work. It might appear to work at first but the epoxy won't stick to that stuff very long. Your best bet might be to use and oil-based polyurethane sealant. A couple coats of that should seal things in nicely, though you may still have some problem with grease pens.
Steve
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On 1/15/2004 mike stebbins
wrote in from
(153.90.nnn.nnn)
Does anyone here decorate their boards with a design made of chalk, grease pencils, charcoal pencils, oil crayons or colored pencils before brushing epoxy onto the bottom surface of the board? I've considered spraying the design with a light dusting of clear-coat or hairspray (real artists occasionally use it), but I'm concerned about the epoxy not sticking to either of these coatings. I'm using charcoal pencils and West Systems epoxy over a 3 layer laminated board with no fiberglass, carbon, or kevlar on it. The epoxy will be a protective surface for the board. Any help or suggestions is appreciated.
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On 1/14/2004 jason
wrote in from
(141.151.nnn.nnn)
i use a mix of cheap 25 cent brushes, disposable foam rollers, but by far the best glassing tool investment ive made is in a quality set of squeegies. i have done about 15 different carbon/glass projects, and they are still goin strong. theyre great for many different projects and youll never regrett buying them.
peace
jason
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On 1/14/2004 Ade
wrote in from
(62.255.nnn.nnn)
Balance Board.
Has anyone any tips for making a home made balance board???
I have a couple of old street decks I could use, but would also be interested in a long board version.
Cheers.
Ade.
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On 1/14/2004
Doug K
wrote in from
(64.222.nnn.nnn)
Bowmanter
Along the lines of what Steve Hopper said, I use a 6" putty knife/drywall knife to spread when laminating. I wipe the knife clean with an old sock (and without solvent) that I reuse until I cant use it anymore. This works for laminating. If your trying to get a nice finish coat, it may not work well. West System sells throw away foam rollers which work well but are wastefull.
Doug
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On 1/13/2004
Steve Hopper
wrote in from
(207.202.nnn.nnn)
Bowmanater,
You may want to try rubber squeegees instead. They work great. Plastic squeegess work well too. You can also spray them with a release agent before your layup which helps. When you're done, you just let the epoxy cure on the squeegee. Then you can simply bend it all around and the cured resin (generally) cracks and pops right off. Sometimes you need to hit it with a sander to get off the stubborn bits, but that's about it.
Steve
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On 1/13/2004 TheBowmanater
wrote in from
(68.54.nnn.nnn)
Hey there. Does anybody with experience with epoxy have any tips on keeping your roller clean. Every time I apply expoxy with a roller it gets really hard. And its really messy to wash. Maybe I could use a different roller each time, but thats kind of a waste. Any tips?
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On 1/12/2004
Steve Hopper
wrote in from
(207.202.nnn.nnn)
That said... there are lots of great old-school boards on the market these days for really great prices. Deathbox, Dogtown, Alva, Skaterbuilt, Z-Flex, and more. There's no shortage of high-quality, NEW, old-school boards out there now. There's truly a great renaissance afoot! I can personally vouch for the high quality of Deathbox and Alva. The others are all highly respected as well. I just haven't ridden them myself yet.
Steve
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On 1/12/2004
Steve Hopper
wrote in from
(207.202.nnn.nnn)
Mark B,
Just find an old-school park board from a friend, neighbor, garage sale, local skateshop, or eBay and trace it. That's the best template you can ever get: the genuine item. If you can't find one, making your own template is fairly simple. Just draw a center line on a large piece of paper and draw the shape you want on one side. Cut that side out then fold the paper in half on the center line. Trace the cut side on the other side. Cut that out and voila! Template! Symmetrical too... if you did it right.
Steve
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