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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 4/26/2004
Yan0
wrote in from
(65.19.nnn.nnn)
I doubt its useless. When glass is in the middle it still moves, so its physical properties change the properties of the deck, even if it is a slight difference. Like you said, I think it is mostly that putting the glass on the outside has a more profound effect on the board's performance.
Yan0
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On 4/26/2004
frank
wrote in from
(24.153.nnn.nnn)
Yea that does make too much sense. So do you think having glass as inside layers is worthless? Or would it still make it stonger but just not have as much as an effect as outside glass?
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On 4/26/2004
Yan0
wrote in from
(65.19.nnn.nnn)
Frank,
I was asking myself the same question, but Dave's example seems to make alot of sense. If you think about it, it is the fibers tendency to resist expansion and contraction that make it stiff. Glass ply's in the middle are not exposed to as much force, therefore they can't resist it. On the other hand, glass on the outside is "asked" to shorten/lenghen more (think of a circle, the farther in you get the more it contracts, the farther out you get the more it lengthens). Therefore Glass on the outside of the board can resist (and therfore exhert) more force than glass on the inside. Also, the further outside the glass is, the more leverage it has. For instance, what is more torsionally sound? an alumium can, or a peice of alumium sheet metal. I don't know for sure, but I am pretty confident that that is the method to the madness.
Yan0
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On 4/26/2004
frank
wrote in from
(24.153.nnn.nnn)
Why would'nt fiberglass sandwiched inbetween the ply's add strength? It seems to me that any glass (if done right) would add strength.
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On 4/25/2004 Dave
wrote in from
(67.164.nnn.nnn)
www.fiberglasssuply.com I used the industrial glass for a slalom deck.
The glass needs to be on the outside with a core(ply or foam)in the middle.
Glass in the center of the deck will not add stength. Think of a surf
board with the glass in the center and the foam on the outside vs the
normal surfboard construction of foam in the middle with glass on the outside.
I would worry about a solid wood deck that flexes splitting. Baltic
birch is too cheap and easy.
Have Fun. Dave
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On 4/24/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
ply verses solid,i'd like to bring up the point of exactly how much spunkier solid wood compared to the relatively dead ride of plys. A dead dampened ride is not really a bad thing, it can be stable,but for a snappy pump or just a lively feel solid wood is really cool. I think if i had no tools(my big ass accurate delta uni-saw) i'd order solid birch,ash ,or poplar,from a mill or a hardwood supply that offers planed and unplaned lumber,this means they can custom mill a piece of hardwood, i'd make up a shape and order custom thickness's and just ,glass(carbon) ,drill and shape.Ex. .562 ash 42 x 10, thanx
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On 4/24/2004
Yan0
wrote in from
(69.164.nnn.nnn)
Firstly Duane and Frank, thanks. I ended up putting two layers of glass (alligned 90-0) between a layer of 5ply and 3 ply. Why the change in plans? because I realized that I was using cloth with a 90 weave, and laminating it at 45 to the grain would be a colossal waste of material. I just checked in on it, it looks OK, but I am a little worried about air bubbles near the tail. Does anyone know where I could get my hands on some 45 weave glass or carbon? It seems that the shortcoming of all the boards I have made, and anything that carves for that matter (skis, longboards, snowboards etc etc) is torsional stability.
Cheers
Jed
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On 4/23/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
An equal weight of carbon will add twice the stiffness of a layer of glass, all other things being equal. Pay attention to the fiber layer weight, it is usually given in ounces per square yard. Your final layer weight will be 2 to 2.5 times this heavy, once resin is added.
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On 4/23/2004
frank
wrote in from
(24.153.nnn.nnn)
well its 2, 1/4" birch 1,1/4" luan. I made the board for a friend who was going to ride it with some gullwing superpros. He decided against dropping them through but ended up putting randal 150s on it. I have never dropped truck through anything but, I tried last night. It doesnt seem to hard if I use a 1" paddle bit.
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On 4/23/2004
paul
wrote in from
(65.213.nnn.nnn)
Frank, very cool, so the board in the pic is 3 layers of 6mm baltic with glass between each layer? I'd bet that would be ideal for a drop thru set up.
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On 4/23/2004
frank
wrote in from
(24.153.nnn.nnn)
paul. Thats exactly what I have done The board is 40" long with a 37" axle to axle wheelbase. The rider is aobut 175 and it barely flexes. I did put some concave in it and it helps
http://thebiggerpic.com/albums/Skateboarding/shaneboard.jpg
pic of da board
I have a 44" pressing now with 2 layers of glass 3 layers of wood. It will have a 29" wheelbase with probably no flex.
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On 4/23/2004
Paul
wrote in from
(65.213.nnn.nnn)
Duane or anyone, Have you made boards with three layers of 3 mil baltic and two layers of glass or carbon fiber? Does that make for a real flexy deck? I was thinking 1-6mm baltic sandwiched between a layer of glass top and bottom and 3mm baltic top and bottom would make a nice deck, maybe for a long wheel base ride. Do you know, does carbon fiber make a difference in the flex character of the board compared to glass? Sorry if these are dumb questions...
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On 4/23/2004 Duane
wrote in from
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
YanO, the glass in the middle of the wood, for the purposes of limiting torsion, will do very little. In the middle, there will be very little stressing of the glass fibers in the 45 degree direction. Instead put one layer on top, and one on the bottom, both oriented at 45/45 degrees (assuming you have plain weave glass), and the difference will be huge. This will not stiffen the board too much since there is no glass running nose to tail ( 0 degree direction). What would work OK and be nice, would be 3 layers of the 3 ply, with the glass in between both seams
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On 4/22/2004
frank
wrote in from
(24.164.nnn.nnn)
I dont know nothin bout nothin but, I've made 1 board 39" long with a 31" (inside to inside) wb 3/4" concave with 1 layer glass 3, 1/4" birch and it is solid. The glass is on the bottom of the board. Then I made one with 3 wood 2 glass, and the glass sandwiched inbetween and its really solid. at 40" 37"axle to axle wb. I like the glass sandwiched between better, cosmetically anyway. I like using the resin to hold the board together instead of glue. It smells good too.
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On 4/22/2004
Yan0
wrote in from
(65.19.nnn.nnn)
Hey there,
I have made a few boards with two and three panels of baltic, and I am about to branch off into composites. The first project is going to be a 38" board, with 8 ply of birch (one 5, one 3) the glass will be sandwiched between layers. I plan on alligning the fibers 45 degrees off of the grain, mostly to get rid of torsional flexability. I realize that trial and error is the best way to go about this, but I was wondering if anyone who has put glass into their boards could give me any pointers, ie approx how many layers of glass are a stiff as a ply of birch? Is it better to sandwich or put layers on the top and bottom? etc.
Thanks, check progress at www.geocities.com/runyan0/pages/projects.html . Board 7 is the glass one. Should be up by monday.
Jed
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On 4/22/2004 Dave
wrote in from
(67.164.nnn.nnn)
47" cruiser wood/David S
Baltic birch 12mm or 18mm.
A sheet of 12mm 60" x 30" cost me $16.00
I am making a 60" deck 24mm thick. It looks
very thick but there still is some flex due
to the length of the deck.
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On 4/21/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
heheheh...
...been eyein' out some strange wood that may have some potential for something more 'round 36".
Wonder if anyone's ever scavenged old barrel staves?
A solid oak rocker with concave... shiiiiiiiat!
May have to join two for some width and the wood come stained...
...with the color of Jack Daniels!
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On 4/21/2004 david soloper
wrote in from
(24.126.nnn.nnn)
what would should I use for a 47 inch. cruise board? I want a non expensive wood that comes in 5or 6 ply. Maple plywood? or marine grade plywood?
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On 4/19/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
The jury's still out on this retro-change-o deck of mine. Up Trucks were just the wrong things for it just the same (I'll be reviewing them later btw).
Just got an idea for a new kind of griptape that would enhance my new deck's features and still improve performance (on any type of board actually). Ever wonder how dificult it is to come up with something original in this arena? I do it in my sleep...
...not to worry herbn, it wasn't really as difficult as it was all made out to be.
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On 4/19/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
my trucks steer a bit like seismics, with the tall risers on my trucks, they seemed a bit familiar, i thought of seismics, and took one out of my showcase and checked it out. The pivot on a seismic is very low in the truck,there's a lot of baseplate height above the pivot, to make room for the springs. I made my trucks at a 45 degree turning because it's the easiest, dan says he went through a bit more trouble to reach that conclusion.My trucks handle like really really low seismics if you mount them directly to the board.
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On 4/15/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
Haven't finished the deck yet. Only got a little past roughing it out but since the structure lies mainly in the wood I decided to take it out for a spin even before we give it a skin.
Observations: Kinda reminds me of H.Alters production stuff (though never really liked the park rider that much) almost like stepping on a banana really. Actually this brings back memories of the stuff that came out of Mr. Sherwood's resin works. Like a combo Adams-Plummer w/o all the weight. Must've forgotten just how the old Hitchcocks used to ride 'cause this is gonna take some getting used to. Guess the real question is: "Do I really want to go back there?"
Then there's cfavero who just wants to cut deep.
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On 4/14/2004 herbn
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
I was looking through Hugh's site, pretty cool stuff, especially in the quivers section.Q. Duane,did you ever finnish your trucks, i remember that you only made one, and for some reason or another it wasn't 100 percent.It's interesting how similar the ride height is between our respective trucks my bases are also even with the tops of 76mm wheels.I drilled for,and installed all the carbon pins, in the edges of my new deck. I pin the end of a strip of wood in my v lams,at the point where they feather out, beacause of the shape of the board.Recoated the bottom with all the leftover epoxy, not that much , not enough to run off. I think the risers will be glued in place, i coated them while there where bolts in place but no trucks.
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On 4/14/2004
Dave G
wrote in from
(207.69.nnn.nnn)
psYchOLoyd,
From the pics you sent me, and the descriptive you gave me. I don't think you should look down upon your creation... But UP!! I sent you a link for your quest of the missing component. Uh.. or is that, "I sent you a component for your missing link" ;-)
Enjoy
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On 4/14/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
(216.80.nnn.nnn)
There are certain times in one's life when one could look down at what they've created and wonder if anybody else is ever gonna understand. These are the kinds of thoughts that are raging through my dysfunctional mind lately as i ponder the effect of the outcome of my labor. I hope that someday some of you too might wonder if you've made an incredible advancement or a horrible mistake as you try to reconcile with the change.
I guess I'll just have to make 30 more decks like similar to this one, allowing for subtle changes, in the hope of perfecting the shape. Something makes me believe that I haven't quite reached that plateau in the field of deck design if only for the desire to learn...
...heheheh, do you really believe that crap?
Glick84: Break your skateboard in half and you'll have two of what your lookin' fer.
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On 4/13/2004
Glick84
wrote in from
(199.8.nnn.nnn)
Has anyone here ever tried or seen an attempt at building a two-wheeled skateboard? I've seen a few ones that you can buy but i just wondered if anyone had actually tried to make one themselves. In theory, the turning mechanisms on these are fairly simple so it seems like it shouldn't be too difficult. anyway, if anyone has any insight or can point me in the right direction, that'd be great :-)
-jon
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