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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 1/13/2000
chupafrog
wrote in from
(163.187.nnn.nnn)
patrick, if you read the messages all of us have written you`ll got thes information..and you can also emailed me to know..hang ten..
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On 1/13/2000
patrick
wrote in from
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heeeeelp!
I have to build a new Longboard.The old one is dead and I have just got enough money to buy wood so I can build one. Please mail me your experiencis which wood is the best.
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On 1/8/2000 paul d.
wrote in from
(216.210.nnn.nnn)
If your looking for good wood for a vertically laminated deck,
you should find a woodworking shop and ask the foreman
for the scrap they cut off the rough stock before
they plane it down. A lot of good stuff ends up in the dumpster
because they just can't keep the stuff around till
someone 'might' use it. I work for a good shop and I see
the stuff that gets thrown out. If I had the time
I could make a deck a week from scraps of mahogany ,oak, etc.
(oh, so much wood, so little time)
p.s. don't go to a kitchen maker they don't use much solid wood
but they could be a last resource for baltic birch plywood
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On 1/8/2000 rob k
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
you put them on upside down, and backwards.
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On 1/8/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
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If you mounted trucks upsidedown you would also have to turn them backwards, so you would still steer in the direction you lean.
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On 1/8/2000
Raph
wrote in from
(195.154.nnn.nnn)
Aye Aye Popeye,
Write you from France just to know if someone has good plans, tips...to build longboards (cruiser and downhill models) then just e mail me your knowledge: much appreciated lads.
Greetings from Paris/Keep the faith.
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On 1/7/2000
rob k
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
the board jon is talking about is called a j-board. they aren't all that great. go with the terraboard
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On 1/7/2000
hyperfrog
wrote in from
(194.117.nnn.nnn)
my 60" board is now finished.The sensations on it are very nice.Can't compare it to a longboard surf cose earth move less than waves.
i used to walk on it..it's crazy to have drop knees around my block corner..and nose wheeling..uch god..groovy hang ten..
it's made of a 18 mm basic plywood einforced by a beam cut in the same board running all along above.Trucks fixation are drilled throught the 2 thicknesses.
a nice trick is to use 2 vernishes: brown and clear to have the board look like it's made of two differents wood.four stripes of brown 5 sstripes of clear
and you got an old school looking," hey, he bought it in hawaii in the 60's..!!"
and to make the translucid grip i use clear vernish with little salt mixed...it works like heaven and you keep your deco alive..aloha
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On 1/6/2000 The other Jon
wrote in from
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In regards to homemade mountainboards and trucks for them.
Ive seen a video clip of a guy who made a board and mounted the trucks upside down. Mounting the trucks upsidedown made the board lower to the ground. He needed the board to be lower because he had what looked like bicycle tires on it. It didn't look like it worked very good(the clip was of him hitting a bump and sliding on his face for several feet). I've got a 45" longboard with XT dirtboard wheels and indys that works great for riding trails. I know three other people with the same sort of board. I recomend it.
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On 1/5/2000
rob k
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
it would be a lot easyer, and end up with a better board if you just bought one. they are made very well. my mountainboard of choice is the terraboard fl117. check out these boards at WWW.TERRABOARD.NET i believe these are the best. if you got any questions, e-mail me
later,
rob
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On 1/5/2000 brian
wrote in from
(206.105.nnn.nnn)
look in the "links" section. i think there is a couple mountain boarding sites with a lot of pictures
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On 1/5/2000
jon
wrote in from
(203.96.nnn.nnn)
Hey im looking at building a mountainboard and was wondering if any one had any ideas on the subject. Also wondering how they put together the trucks and could it be possible to make them up yourself
cheers
jon (NZ) happy new year
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On 1/3/2000 SUPERFROG
wrote in from
(163.187.nnn.nnn)
HAPPY NEW YEAR
...CONCRETES WAVES RIDERS...
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On 12/31/1999 Glen
wrote in from
(216.102.nnn.nnn)
Carpenters glue would be awful for that type of stuff. I meant that carpenters glue is better for edge jointing wood than polyester laminating resin. To apply a fabric to wood, the cheap way is to just use the sanding/finishing resin. I usually use a layer of laminating resin, then a top coat of sanding resin for fabric, graphics or stickers.
Have a safe and happy New Year,
Glen
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On 12/31/1999
Jonnieo
wrote in from
(216.224.nnn.nnn)
I'm kinda interested in the carpenters glue idea. Do you use it to laminate cloth to wood or just coat the wood? how well does it finish? I know that I had a bitch of a time sanding it off the joints on a woodshop project i made last year. Do you put anything over it to make it waterproof?
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On 12/29/1999 Glen aka. Long Johnson Skates
wrote in from
(216.102.nnn.nnn)
Generally, polyester resin comes in two flavors at the surf shop or Home Depot. Laminating resin and Sanding resin. Laminating resin is best for...three guesses. Sanding resin has wax added and polishes up and sands cleaner. When I make boards using polyester resin I usually use a real thin coat of laminating resin, sand, another thin coat, sand and use sanding/finishing resin, real thin again, and sand with 220, 320, 400 grit paper and then polish with cutting wax and then finishing wax. I only recomend polyester resin for laminating fabric or glass to wood, it isn't a very good structural choice. I find carpenters yellow glue to even be better than laminating poly resin.
I've been using West Systems Epoxy resin lately and it is great for a real solid structural bond. After bonding a test piece of oak, I mounted it in my vise and hit it with a mallet to see how much force the bond could take. After hitting it REAL hard the wood finally broke...not the resin bond. Epoxy is harder to finish though, it doesn't sand as well as Sanding resin, and it is bad for laminating fabric to wood, it seems to bubble a lot and when you sand, your fabric inlay gets sanded, making it look like crap.
Epoxy is real expensive though so unless you get a deal, find someone with an employee discount somewhere, it's not the stuff to experiment with. It is real tough though.
I made a 38" inch deck of 1/4" thick vertical laminates of red oak, walnut and cherry. Added a 4oz bi-directional glass top and bottom with epoxy, and I ride it at skateparks...oh yea, I am 6'4" and weigh about 250lbs, and this deck can take it without mush flex like a 8ply maple deck.
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On 12/29/1999
The Kanoa Kid
wrote in from
(38.29.nnn.nnn)
Does any one know where to buy 7 to 12plywood (aircraft or marine). I live in Arizona and it's near impossable to find here. Oh yea, for you fiberglass guys try buying a used snow board and mounting wheels to it. I bought one at play it again sports for $65.
Carvin The Big One "T"
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On 12/29/1999
Jonnieo
wrote in from
(216.224.nnn.nnn)
I'm not sure what I used. The package says it's polyester resin, but doesn't specify if it's sanding or finishing. It also says on the package that epoxy resins are recomended for covering porous surfaces, but the hardware store didn't have it.
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On 12/29/1999
Chris
wrote in from
(167.208.nnn.nnn)
jonnieo,
Did you use finishing resin or sanding resin? My understanding is that it is real tough to get a good surface with sanding resin. Get back if you have a chance, I'm toying with the idea of trying to make some Fibreflex-type boards soon.
Chris
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On 12/28/1999
jonnieo
wrote in from
(216.224.nnn.nnn)
On the board I made, the fiberglass came out really rough, so I used bondo to smooth it all out. It turned out ok, but I don't know how the bondo would work on a board that's going to flex. Maybe you could use an extra coat of just resin to get rid of the bumps. Make sure you sand it really well, and maybe put a coat of metal primer on before you paint it.
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On 12/28/1999
jonnieo
wrote in from
(216.224.nnn.nnn)
They sell fiberglass at most hardware stores. In the ones around here, it's by the paint and thinner section. They sell kits where it has cloth and polyester resin, but I bought one, then found out it would have been cheaper to buy it all seperately because i needed more than was in the kit for just a 27" bannana board.
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On 12/28/1999 brian
wrote in from
(206.105.nnn.nnn)
couldn't find the glass
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On 12/28/1999
brian
wrote in from
(206.105.nnn.nnn)
i am going to try and pick up some fiberglass today and make a slalom board, any tips on painting/graphics on the fiberglass?
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On 12/23/1999
aln
wrote in from
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
check out my skateboarding websote:
stoned skateboarding
www.geocities.com/pipeline/shore/4167/stoned.html
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On 12/20/1999
juan fungi
wrote in from
(131.183.nnn.nnn)
Note to those using ascii graphics:
Don't bother.
Sorry
Juan
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