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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 8/23/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
my current project m,just went into the press today. Half inch birch multi ply with grabrails and pocketed trucks. I Grooved the ply for poplar stingers and used a strip of carbon triaxm, that wedges in next to and under the stingersm,kind of makes a neat border for the carbon. I'll have to look up a how to on posting picsm,directly here.
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On 8/20/2004
Steve in AZ
wrote in from
United States
(130.13.nnn.nnn)
I've now made 7 skate decks from old rental return snowboards (beat, but cheap).
PSR is dead-on correct about wanting to keep as much width as possible, and be VERY careful about those rails.
I would also recommend using the longest, widest, THICKEST snowboard you can find, as the others will all make soft or med-soft flex decks (Medium at best), unless you go real short.
The other thing I've struggled with is cutaway vs. wide profile and the wheelbite issue. I've done everything I know, but I can't get away from the risers.
Take your time and wear eye/skin protection (those little shards of 'glass show up in the stragest places).
-=S=-
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On 8/19/2004 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(68.69.nnn.nnn)
Bugs,you have three choices with narrow,race-type snowboards being used to beget new carveable Sk8Boards... 1st] IF you have access to a Bandsaw that will cut at 45*,then just cut a little,just enough to scribe the edges off the board.That's a tilt of 45*,and going inboard about 3/16".The hard part here is in the guiding of the feed thru the saw.I suggest you mark 'guide posts' along the sidewall or base,and be ready to have communication issues with whomever is helping you guide these thru.Do a test cut run with scrap ply first,see where you might have accuracy problems...Breathe deep,slow,and then run a Deck thru. 2nd] You can cut at 90*,but then you need to go past the entire edge/sidewall.That's a loss of 8mm a side minimum(edges have a set of 'teeth' that protrude inwards towards the core-those teeth have to be shaved past while cutting,or your board's base area wll later become a buzz-saw for ankles)in width,and with an already small deck area,you don't really want a 17cm Sk8board,do ya? It's possible,and the board will flex o.k. still,you'll just have to deal with being on a skinnier "Skinny". 3rd] Whew,now there's the 'leave the edges' possibility.It'll work,too,BUT,you MUST ROUND the edges,not just flat-file them to a 45* angle.Here,a curved-faced grinder bit from Dremel is your best bet.Buy three,or four,as a board has a bit of length to it.Another option is to 'flat-file' at 45*,then smooth the edges further with smooth grit emery. I'd add a strip of Electrician's Tape or something similar put some padding onto what metal is left(I value my Achilles...) 4th] Look for BOARDERCROSS boards!! They're Stiff,and Wide,plus they're often CHEAP at Play-it-Again stores. Oh,and Chief,I've done something like 15 'snowboard conversions' so far.I also have been Snowboarding since,um,like '78. Snurfin before that...
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On 8/19/2004 snake
wrote in from
United States
(68.40.nnn.nnn)
hey i was going to try and build some boards and i was wondering what kind of wood to use for different amounts of flex.
also, should i use layers of wood with different amounts of flex and do i just use glue to keep them together
thanks
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On 8/19/2004
RJ
wrote in from
United States
(63.173.nnn.nnn)
Kyle,
Are you in SO CAl? The supplier i buy from for my custom laminates is in so cal. Email me and i will hook you up with their number. Also i can prolly help you out on a better bending technique than soaking.
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On 8/16/2004
Svarteld
wrote in from
Sweden
(213.64.nnn.nnn)
Duane,
Good looking work on those DH trucks with ball-joint pivots. Do you use metal ball-joints? Saw that McMaster also sells them in nylon.
Thanks,
Peter
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On 8/15/2004 psYch0Lloyd
wrote in from
United States
(24.148.nnn.nnn)
you *can* do just as the herbivore says or...
...another real good way to get flex on that deck is to use that router to simply round out those sharp edges of that center beam this will make the board much easier on the hands / a slightly lighter load to bare / and a flexier ride at that.
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On 8/14/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
re swooper. got router? if you routed pockets into the beam and dropped the trucks in ,or added risers into the beam, flex would go up just a bit,and you'd have your shock pads, with no change in ride height.
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On 8/13/2004 Bugs
wrote in from
Japan
(220.4.nnn.nnn)
Thanks Yan0 for the advice. I see your point about the flex pattern - it might be best to have the flex centred between the wheels. I did some rough testing where I placed the decks on stacks of books at my desired truck mounting positions, and then stood on them to test the flex. These decks hardly flexed at all - they're stiff race boards - a whole world away from a typical snowboard.
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On 8/12/2004 kyle
wrote in from
United States
(68.124.nnn.nnn)
anyone know where you can get maple veneer in california. made a few decks with baltic birch, but want to add some concave and had some delam problems soaking them in the tub.
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On 8/12/2004
Yan0
wrote in from
United States
(24.48.nnn.nnn)
Mr. Beef,
Look at a ski or a snowboard, then tell me I am full of s#@!.
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On 8/12/2004 Chief Red Beef
wrote in from
United States
(24.185.nnn.nnn)
I love lengthy advise from people who "have never actually tried it but..."
Don't you?
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On 8/12/2004
Yan0
wrote in from
United States
(24.48.nnn.nnn)
Bugs,
I have cut up a ski or two before, a simple circular saw or skill saw with a metal blade should do the trick. Draw a center line, draw your shape, cut it out, and sand it smooth (you may need a belt sander or grinder for the metal). Don't worry about the edjes, they dont go far into the board, its the sheets of titanium and such that make the cutting a bitch. Just jack up your trucks, carving wheel wells in a snowboard will be pointless, you are going to carve about 3mm and then you will have to stop. If you dont want to jack up your trucks, do cut-aways.
the only problem I can forsee is with flex patern. The beauty of ski/snowboard construction is how they are designed to flex, with unlimited support points (the snow) This means that no one point gets more stress than another. The board thins out towards the extremities because it is A: further from the applied force and B: designed to be more active, your turn is initiated and terminated with the tip and tail of your ski/board. The problem with having somethign as thin as a ski or snowboard supported in only two points, is that it looses its practical flex pattern. Unless you have the center of the longboard centered (or very near to it) on the snowboard, your flex pattern will basically consist of a 6 inch area that does all the flexing. That also means breaking. Even with it centered, I would immagine that the board will behave much like a ski supported on its ends with a biig boot on it. The center will remain reletively unflexed, and the force will be transfered to the ends. This also translates into bad things. I have seen people riding around on a snowboard turned longboard, so I know its possible. I am jsut not sure I would reccomend it. But ultimately, I have never tried it, So i dont know. IN any case, let me know how it turns out.
Thats my two cents
Yan0
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On 8/11/2004 Bugs
wrote in from
Japan
(202.32.nnn.nnn)
I've got a couple of old alpine snowboards that are ready to be turned into skateboards. They're both 19.5 cm wide at their narrowest point and stiff stiff stiff!
What's the best way to cut these down to size? Should I try and remove the metal edge, or just file it down until blunt? It seems like an alpine snowboard would be a tough bastard to cut through, especially if it still had the metal edges intact. I can't imagine a saw tough enough to cut through it, yet delicate enough to cut a nice shape to avoid wheel bite. The other problem is that I don't have much in the way of tools, and am fairly clutzy when it comes to making things. But I can borrow stuff…
Anyway, I want one board to be a GS-sized flatland pumper and the other to be a nice turny hill carver.
For the GS-sized pumper I'm thinking something with a 24" wheelbase, and maybe using the tail of the snowboard rather than just the stiffer middle section. I'd put the thinner flexier section under my front foot. I might even mount the thing upside down (rockered). Probably use Seismic trucks.
For the hill carver I'm thinking of something with a 30" wheelbase, using the stiff middle section of the board. Rockered rather than cambered, with Original trucks.
What do you think?
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On 8/8/2004 Retrospecto
wrote in from
Canada
(207.6.nnn.nnn)
any good sites on board building other than toothless hugh r runyano nosewheelie .I'm a newbie at board making
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On 8/8/2004 Chief Red Beef
wrote in from
United States
(24.185.nnn.nnn)
Nice socks.
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On 8/7/2004
swooper
wrote in from
United States
(69.20.nnn.nnn)
Here's my second el-cheapo board for our 6-mile, 1300 vertical foot hill. Called the Targhee Arrow, it's a 60x11-inch ellipse.
 [br]
 [br]
It's 3/4-inch plywood with a spine of 1/2x4-inch alder screwed and glued to the bottom. The plywood is scrap from work, it's veneered on both sides with knotty pine. About 1/4-inch of concave was ground out of the top. The board was given about an inch of camber when the spine was laminated with Titebond. There are wheel wells. Trucks are Randal 180 R2's, wheels Kryptonic blue 80mm Classics.
 [br]
The board was originally set up with a wheelbase of 53-1/4 inches but it wouldn't do a 180-degree turn in the width of the road, so the rear truck was moved forward for a wheelbase of 48-3/4 inches. Standing slides feel SO great, with the rear truck at least a foot behind my rear foot, the slide feels very stable and easy to control.
 [br]
The flex is a bit stiff. I weigh 200 lbs. and just flatten the board when standing on it. I'd like a bit more flex and will probably plane the alder down to 3/8-inch and try it. The alder added a bunch of strength and stiffness, the bare plywood felt like I'd break it immediately. The biggest problem with the alder spine is the added thickness. I like urethane risers to dampen the ride, but with the top of the deck already 1-1/4 inches off the truck, I don't want to add more height.
Anyway, I wanted to try a longer longboard and like trying to build them without spending much money or time. The Arrow is shown with my 44-inch Lib Technologies Surfer Longboard with 180 R2's and 70mm Kryptonics green Classics.
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On 8/7/2004
swooper
wrote in from
United States
(69.20.nnn.nnn)
Here's my second el-cheapo board for our 6-mile, 1300 vertical foot hill. Called the Targhee Arrow, it's a 60x11-inch ellipse.
It's 3/4-inch plywood with a spine of 1/2x4-inch alder screwed and glued to the bottom. The plywood is scrap from work, it's veneered on both sides with knotty pine. About 1/4-inch of concave was ground out of the top. The board was given about an inch of camber when the spine was laminated with Titebond. There are wheel wells. Trucks are Randal 180 R2's, wheels Kryptonic blue 80mm Classics.
The board was originally set up with a wheelbase of 53-1/4 inches but it wouldn't do a 180-degree turn in the width of the road, so the rear truck was moved forward for a wheelbase of 48-3/4 inches. Standing slides feel SO great, with the rear truck at least a foot behind my rear foot, the slide feels very stable and easy to control.
The flex is a bit stiff. I weigh 200 lbs. and just flatten the board when standing on it. I'd like a bit more flex and will probably plane the alder down to 3/8-inch and try it. The alder added a bunch of strength and stiffness, the bare plywood felt like I'd break it immediately. The biggest problem with the alder spine is the added thickness. I like urethane risers to dampen the ride, but with the top of the deck already 1-1/4 inches off the truck, I don't want to add more height.
Anyway, I wanted to try a longer longboard and like trying to build them without spending much money or time. The Arrow is shown with my 44-inch Lib Technologies Surfer Longboard with 180 R2's and 70mm Kryptonics green Classics.
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On 8/6/2004
david
wrote in from
United States
(165.247.nnn.nnn)
i dig the shape alot, nice wheel wells. can't beat the look of plain carbon!
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On 8/5/2004
Hunter
wrote in from
United States
(24.151.nnn.nnn)
Cool board!!!
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On 8/5/2004 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(165.121.nnn.nnn)
The slalom board is done. The photos showing the concave and camber didn't turn out.
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On 8/5/2004
Hunter
wrote in from
United States
(152.86.nnn.nnn)
Let's run this down a different trail. Have any of you did any work with plastic? Polypropylene. The FU boards are poly and fiberglass and are ok but lack design and are about one pound too heavy aside from being a little flexable. I think they could be stiffened up thru design. I have been looking into plastic mold making and liquid plastic and bending a sheet either thru a vacuum system or heat and mold process. I talked to a plastic manufacturer who said there is a 20% loss in strength when you heat a sheet and bend it. I have also looked into putting a layer of wood on each side of a plastic core. Then there is the issue of getting a glue that will stick to wood and plastic. Any ideas?
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On 8/5/2004 Mercury
wrote in from
United States
(208.59.nnn.nnn)
Anyone know the humidity limit for fiberglassing? It stopped raining this morning at 11:30am - Now at 2:30pm, humidity is 69% and temp is 75°. Is this air too wet for fiberglassing?
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On 8/4/2004 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
New project, I was a bit disapointed with the new shogo air beam replica,no air beams! I know that this manufacturing process would put the price up, before the art even hits the top,but how cool would this be. SO, i got these concave longboard blanks a while ago,real long between the kicks, i made one maggie(dregs) type board, big deal. So , now i took my wheelbase driller ,it was set just a bit longer than the flat shogo. I held the shogo down ,and used my digital calipers to center the concave,measuring down from the sides of the shogo to the concave,yee ha. I'm gonna cut it out and route it out tommorrow, with 1/8 or 3/32 birch ply , i'm gonna seal off the routed chambers and bevel the sides of the birch with a belt sander,i might fill the chambers with balsa though,i think i can locate the birch with 1/4 staples then chuck it in the mold with epoxy. If i did airbagging it would be really cool to put a surface on the board like the shogo's had,anybody know what that stuff was? The open wood work will be very cool too.
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On 8/4/2004 Duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
All that worry about losing vacuum, pressure regulators, valves, etc is the loss of simplicity I'm talking about. I finished my lay-up last night and went to bed with the pump running. Simple tubing from the pump to the bag. When I woke up early this morning I turned the pump off and shucked the bag. A continuous duty pump is so worth the time to find.I'm glad I was working on the top of the board last night. It was hot out and my usual 1 hr pot time turned into 30 minutes. I noticed the soup getting thick and had to rush it. There are a couple areas where the surface is slightly bumpy, the resin gelled a bit before the pump pulled down. No harm as it will be under grip tape (and the pics I'll post will therefore be the bottom !). Man I'm glad I don't do this commercially because small errors like that are waste. Tonight template making and routing out the board.
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