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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 2/29/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Just gripped and test cruised my econo-primal-homegrown,the holes were a bitch,I didn't check the rig I made to mark holes (cross measure the wheelbase rt.frt to lft back,and viseversa) so I ovaled the holes epoxyed around the bolts and used washers so they wound't go back to the old countersinks,well they're good now,the baseplates are epoxied on the board too the washers are out by removing one bolt at a time and recountersinking the holes,the boar feels stable as hell,has a 34 inch wheelbase with Randle Races on and Aluminators,done at last ,ready to ride,just on time for spring.The concave feels good even if it is only routed in and disksanded smooth.
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On 2/28/2000
Charlie
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
I just finnished my longboard and it turned out great. I used red oak for my deck, and it is really stiff and fast. It is 44 inches long and I put some old G&S trucks with old powell wheels. This board rides really fast, and I love that it doesn't have any speed wobbles. I already am looking forward to building another one because longboarding rules.
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On 2/28/2000 CRXPilot
wrote in from
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I was considering buying a template from MJB for a Classic 50 but after reading these posts and realizing that my brother is a CAD whiz, I'm going to build my own. I'm a little guy (140 lbs) and I want to build a board around 48 to 50 inches. This is my first longboard so I want to end up with a super stable board. Some quick questions: What is the most stable wheelbase for this board length? Also, I need trucks and wheels. What are some cost effective (but not cheap) trucks and wheels that you would recommend? Thanks in advance! I can't wait to start this thing.
Dave
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On 2/27/2000 oldschooler
wrote in from
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i´m going to try to build a slalom deck. i´m going for a birch plywood/fiberglass lamination. having used birch plywood for my 48 inc pintail i know that it flexes a lot. i used 4*3 ply and glued it togheter and put some pressure on the tail and nose to induce camber( apex 0.6 inc ) when i stand on it it´s about horizontel (i´m 172 lb). now i´d like to build a slalom deck 36-38 inc. has anyone got any ideas/experience on building one of theese? i know that maple plywood is harder then birch but since maple plywood is not availibel in sweden, it´s not an option.
i have a few questions that are of special interrest :
-how many ply( e.g. 2, 3, 4, 5, or even more)?
-what type of fiber glass weawe, and how much?
if someone has the energy and likes to help out,please post your tips here.it would be of great help since i really can´t afford the trial and error way.
i hope you understand my questions, even though my grammar and spelling is far from perfect.
thanks
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On 2/26/2000 ^V^Radical^V^
wrote in from
(63.29.nnn.nnn)
whell I got my board done,... a mahogany deck with Invader Trucks from my old Powell-Peralta, with axles,.. and big old wheels with alot of bites taken out of em but stil round,.... anyway no grip tape,.....but i rode it to work this morning.,then it rained and i needed to find a way home lol,.. whell anyway i got back (obviously) lol i swear i must have hit 25 mph going downhill .....kinda scary but at least my board didn't wobble like my old Powell first time i could really duck down on my board as far as i did lol it was kinda cool,.... whell i almost hit a station wagon,.... i gotta learn where the best place to stand on the board and drag my feet is. my friend Tristan wants to make a longboard now too lol. Man these things are built for speed,. 50" with soft wheels... anyway about wheel wels,.... technically ist a wheelwell just more surface of the board to hit the wheel considoring it wraps around it?
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On 2/26/2000
jim steiner
wrote in from
(63.28.nnn.nnn)
I find water skis and reshape them into nose riders with pins, swallos,and box cut tails. I have 26 of them if anybody looking for one or two. I live in Riverside looking for some longboaders to skate with.e-mail me and let me know of some good spots.
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On 2/23/2000 brian
wrote in from
(206.105.nnn.nnn)
i have never riden a manufactured board and i was wondering is there any need (in terms of speed) to buy a commercially produced board? they only thing i can see being better would be the drilling of the holes (i can never get those things perfect!) i also like the feel of a solid board (no flex) in terms of stability. any input is appreciated.
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On 2/22/2000 Ben
wrote in from
(38.31.nnn.nnn)
Thanks jon, I think I'll try that. I think that I will have the spine go the entire length of the board and even have my trucks go through it- it will act as a riser then.
Thanks again Keep on cruisin
Ben
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On 2/21/2000 Jon
wrote in from
(63.23.nnn.nnn)
If the board is too flexy I recommend using a spine down the middle. Skis by far make the best spines. They are flexy and have camber. Attach one ski with screws to the botttom. It should be easy to do. Your board will be good.
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On 2/20/2000 ben l
wrote in from
(38.31.nnn.nnn)
I recently got an old beat up snowboard for free. I was looking at it and started thinking that I could make a nice longboard out of it. It's too flexible right now so I might glue 2 boards together or I might just add a piece of wood, like a chasis to stiffen it up.
Does anyone have any info about building longboards outh of snowboards?
THanks a lot.
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On 2/19/2000 Glen
wrote in from
(216.102.nnn.nnn)
Herbn,
Sounds cool, get those picts up. BTW you had mentioned a while back that you make custom slide rails like in the good old 70's and 80's. The biggest rails I have found available are 15 1/2". What would it take to get some 19" rails for my 38" skatepark deck?
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On 2/19/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
S glass ,I couldn't resist its structual superiority or so says the "aircraft spruce" cataloge it got a little sketchy in one spot,but overall it worked out fine,I recoated with epoxy sanded a little,one more patch job and I'll be done,I carved in wheelwells and railgrabs and the glass got pressed in perfectly.
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On 2/18/2000 Glen
wrote in from
(216.102.nnn.nnn)
if you're building a vacuum mold, or a vacuum bag, that will get the glass into the wheel wells and grab rails. I have two ways of glassing a deck.
1. glass the deck before cutting out the shape, this give the deck a skin coat on the top and bottom. then you can glass therails after the shaping, or not. rails don't normally need glass, I usually just give them a final epoxy resin treatment. This is only true for wood/glass boards.
2. glassing a shaped deck is harder, if you don't have a vacuum bag. First off I use bi-directional glass for going into wheel wells, or over the sides because it streches and tweeks real well. I always just use a big rectangular hunk of glass, resin it, wait for the resin to semi-harden,rough cut the glass with a razor blade, then final shape glass when the resin is dry. Trying to cut the glass before it has resin is a pain. If you're using bi-directional, it loses its waeve when you pull on it, e-glass, or tri-axial does the same but to a lesser degree, s-glass or mat is real ugly to work, don't use it unless you're making a Bahne.
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On 2/18/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Yeah,yeah but I figured concave is concave(thats not at all true)maybe I'll make a vacuum mold that will only need one side instead of two matching plates.
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On 2/17/2000
rob k
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
i meant like bending wood herbn, not sanding down the middle. thanks anyway
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On 2/16/2000
Hizzout
wrote in from
(63.70.nnn.nnn)
That's actually a good idea herbn...I'm surprised no one has done it yet!
Of course, no one has done anything like the stroker either...
Keep Carvin'
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On 2/16/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Been thinking about it,I'll put some pics up,hopefully soon.Would like to make tech stuff,fiberglass and all,and I think I have an idea that wouldn't require cutting fiberglass to the shape of the deck(big hassle and sloppy too) but still get the glass into the wheelwells,and railgrabs.
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On 2/16/2000 strait
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
easiest ways i drill boards is to offset the center line half of hole width or half of base width if the board has a strait edge checked by a piece of string get a square and set it and draw two lines one for each truck then use a base plate for jig i used to do the centerline thing and had a special baseplate that had alignment notches but the first way allows me to drill boards with a straitedge perfect every time with simple tools in under five minutes only problem is you might end up with holes for trucks in anything lying around
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On 2/16/2000
Hizzout
wrote in from
(4.18.nnn.nnn)
Herbn...
Do you ever sell your homemade decks or are they all for personal use? Any sites or such with your deck designs on them?
I'm looking for a deck, 48 to 52 inches, that I can cross step on, shaped in classic surf shape, with possibly clear grip...actually it doesn't matter.
Just curious.
Keep Carvin'
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On 2/16/2000
^V^Radical^V^
wrote in from
(63.22.nnn.nnn)
cool I guess I'l go with the mahogany,.... kinda feel bad for using rain forest wood though,..... oh well,... millions of cabinet, and furniture makers use a ton more than me,.. next time i make a board im gonna try to recycle from some furniture or somethin,.. hey does anyone know where to get Rails,.. for a 50 inch longboard?,.... man skateboards today arent much to ook at compared to 10 years ago,... lol i guess it comes with the modern skating functions whell whatever,... '======================
(o) (o)
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On 2/14/2000
Evoracer
wrote in from
(216.128.nnn.nnn)
Rob K,
I've been making custom old school boards for a while now. I use 1/16 maple veneer or 1/8" birch plywood or a combination of the two in a laminating process with polyurethane wood glue in a homemade jig/press. Kicktails & concaves are fairly simple once incorporated into the jig. Email me for further info.
Peace, Evo
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On 2/14/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
mmm, four posts back! does everybody read just the last post,its like they have yet to discover those little arrows on the sides of the screen.I routed a concave into my 14 ply birch econo-primal-homemade.I drew the concave,represented by concentric ovals(like a topographic map),then I used a router set it for the depth of the concave and routed the deepest part, then backed it off a little at a time routing each progressively bigger oval,then sanded them into a contour with a disc sander attachment for a drill,just fiberglassed it yesterday at a friends house,he has the equipment to vacuumbag laminate,it came out really cool.
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On 2/13/2000
rob k
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
i was wondering if anybody puts concave into there homemades, and how they do it?
later,
rob
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On 2/13/2000
aftermath
wrote in from
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
i am in love with mahogany for a board. use it and by all means enjoy it.
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On 2/13/2000
^V^Radical^V^
wrote in from
(63.29.nnn.nnn)
Hi all,... pleased to meet u,. I have a question,.. Whel I bought a piece of mahogany and its about 3/4 inch thick,.. gonna make a 45 inch board 9 inches wide,... just tel me,.. does it sound stable?,.. I know mahogany is a pretty hard wood.
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