|
|
|
| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
|
| Topic |
Home Made Boards |
|
|
|
On 4/13/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Board builders...
I have started two new boards. They will be similar in that they will have both camber and concave. The first will be out of my regular marine plywood and glass. The second one is more experimental. I will be alternating layers of 1/8 ply and fiberglass (we'll have to see if this works).
If you would like to see the progress on these decks, check out my site. www.hugh308.homestead.com
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/13/2000 Blah
wrote in from
(207.167.nnn.nnn)
I've never tried the dirtboard brakes, I'm just a student with only two boards in his quiver, and dirtboards tend to be expensive. I'd like to get one though, there are some hills right by my house that look really cool.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/13/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Hey blah, thanks for the info.
Have you ever tried the dirtboard brake systems? I have just started riding them and can already see that brakes could really come in handy. I don't quite have the slide-to-stop moves down yet.
I have e-mailed brakeboard for info and prices on their set-up. They look pretty cool, maybe even collectable in a few dozen years.
Thanks again, HR
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/13/2000 Blah
wrote in from
(207.167.nnn.nnn)
Brakes already exist for dirtboards, and there is one commercial product I know of for regular skateboards. www.brakeboard.com I believe is the website, it is a foot actuated system with brakes installed inside the rear truck. Earthboards and mountainboard sports both sell braking systems for their dirtboards.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/13/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Kona...
Think about this one... A truck mounted center pull caliper that would push the pads outwards to make contact with the inside edge of the rear wheels. Try basing it on existing technology. By modifing existing bike calipers. You could cable it to a hand held brake lever.
Second idea would be to also have the truck mounted system using pads to contact the insides of the wheels, but use a small hydraulic cylinder. You could use a slave cylinder out of old shoe/drum vehicle assemblies. A small hand held resivoir and master could supply the pressure need to activate the slave.
A note to detractors of brakes on boards... What you are witnessing here is the birth of invention. It starts small on things that seem improbable, impractical, useless or just plane silly. But who knows what the ideas of young guys like Kona will lead too. Today it is brakes for downhill boards... tommorow... well who knows where tommorow may lead someone who thinks ahead!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/12/2000 cranker sore
wrote in from
(63.27.nnn.nnn)
BRAKES? please don't bother unless you plan to dirt board. Brakes on a skate for the street is sad. Given a three foot wide lane, you should be able to weave to a stop in a shorter distance than someone with a brake. Brakes would only serve the purpose of easing the minds of those who don't skate.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/12/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Hey Kona, It's funny that you mention the brakes. My brother was discussing that with me the other day after I crashed hard on his dirt board. Sure could have used some then!!
Quite a few of the things that I build are sparked by conversations with him. As I have stated many times before, "My brother is the thinker... I'm the good looking one with all the skills."
I think that your on to something with braking from the center of the axel, but that one will get a little expensive in the testing phases! You might be able to modify the randal comps somehow (they have the floating axel design already)
To do some experimentation, I think it would be interesting to rig a friction device that could be applied to the rear wheels. The tricky part would be to have a pad surface that was not so sticky that it would bind up, and not too abrasive, so it doesn't destroy the wheels. You could try installing the bike caliper so that only one side of the caliper is movable. Then only one pad would touch the wheel at a time. The other side of the caliper would have to be attached firmly to the bottom of the deck (or some how removed). I think the old style bike calipers may be able to be rigged to pull on one side only. Or you could build a giant center pull that hits a pad on both rear wheels. This would not be a stop on a dime brake, but could possiblly be a slow you down so you won't die when you crash system.
I would be very interested in brain storming with you. (I promise I won't try to get rich off the ideas without you!!)
This sounds like a fun project! Good luck and let me know how it goes... HR
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/12/2000 Kanoa Kid
wrote in from
(38.29.nnn.nnn)
I have an idea for a break system, I'm going to try using a roller blade type wheel hook up a bike caliper to hub. I have a lot of ideas, yet I really think that breaking has to come from the trucks, using a spinning axel like a car so the breaking force can be applyed through the center of the truck instead of one wheel. Who ever fugures breaking out will make a fortune. How about it Hugh you seem to have a mechanical mind from looking at your web sight, do you think it can be done?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/12/2000 Kanoa Kid
wrote in from
(38.29.nnn.nnn)
I think it's about time one of us long boarders come up with a breaking system, to many people say it can't be done, however it was said that shocks on mountain bikes were impossible yet almost all of them have it today. It's the year 2000 and it's time to excite. boardcandy.com has the kniksplit 4 wheel truck and there are wheels that are made with hard plastic and metal centers, not to mentionspecial wheels for high speed that don't melt thanks to the luge riders, multi ply woods for flex and strength with arching for shock. These are all things that have come about in the last few years that have advanced boarding. So what Stoker and Speed spring trucks aren't around any more but with out makers they those boarding would'nt be what it is today, not to mention how many people want a set of strokers if you can even find them $$!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/10/2000 Adam
wrote in from
(207.251.nnn.nnn)
buttrox,
4-ply 1/2" is not a good choice. It will flex too much and sag quickly. Go with a 10 or 13 ply baltic birch. With plywoods, the more thin plies you have, the better the quality. You don't want marine grade unless you're planning on riding under water. Look for furniture grade. 5/8" is the minimum I'd use. Read the archives of this forum for tips on bending wood.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/10/2000
buttrox
wrote in from
(216.76.nnn.nnn)
I am planning on making myself a board and have heard
mixed reviews on this stuff, Im thinking of starting out
with marine grade 4 ply 1/2" but I want to try other types of wood afterwards.
I have doubts as to how to bend the wood to make a kicktail out of it. I dont know where to find which one will bend easily and yet be stiff enough to hold some power.
i have heard of birch, maple and marine grade plywood.
can someone help
thanks
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/9/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Hey 8-wheeler fans... I have posted some pictures of some very nice homemade as well as a very rare vintage pre-simms toft 8-wheeler on my page. If you have any 8-wheeler pictures, send them to me and I would be pleased to post them too.
www.hugh308.homestead.com
I would also be interested in posting pictures of your homemade 4 wheel boards too. See ya, HR
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/8/2000 old guy
wrote in from
(208.245.nnn.nnn)
you can also check out "the homemade skateboard clinic" on yahoo clubs. there are a bunch of guys who build boards and share ideas
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/8/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(208.245.nnn.nnn)
tjilo,
check out www.hugh308.homestead.com for some board building tips and pictures of bending jigs
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/8/2000 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
(209.198.nnn.nnn)
Jonno,you might try using wide-flange T-nuts at the top of the board to add strength to the mounting hardware.I feel this is better than flat washers because the bolts feed through the threads of the T-nut,eliminating any slop,while increasing the footprint of the bolts head on softer plys,or on glass/foam composites.In the U.S.,#10/24 T-nuts are pretty common,but 5mm is equivalent in diameter,and available world-wide.Try talking to machine-tool companies,as they stock various bolts and nuts.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/8/2000
tjilo
wrote in from
(161.28.nnn.nnn)
I am interested in making my own longboard and was wondering what the process is for shaping (kick tail, concave, etc.) and also for glassing. how many coats do you use or prefer ( I weigh in at 155 lbs.) I want to build a good carving board with a kick tail. eventually i would like to start playing around with the camber. but for now i just need some basic advice ( like wood type, maple? birch? marine ply?) . any thing would be helpful.
thanks. jilo
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/8/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
jonno, I would be very interested to hear how the aluminum laminate works out for you. I have attached length-wise splines of wood down the center of the board (acts as a riser too) and this has provided extra strength as well as stiffness.
I have heard of guys drilling their mounting holes large, then filling them with epoxy before drilling them out for their hardware. You could possibly try using a brass or stainless bushing in an extra large hole and feeding your bolts through that.
On other projects (not decks however) I have used a fostner bit to countersink down for depth of the bolt head and oversized washer and was able to get the strength necessary to prevent pull-through or ovaling.
On the boards I am currently building, the fiberglass seems to provide enough strength to keep the hardware firmly in place. (I use 3 layers)
Let me know how the aluminum works out... HR
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/8/2000 jonno
wrote in from
(203.109.nnn.nnn)
cheers ive already tried using marine ply but found it lacking in strength around the bolt holes. I might try laminating a piece of aluminium into the middle layer of ply, so i can bolt the trucks into that.has anyone tried doing this with any success?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/6/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Jonno,
Try marine grade plywood. This would be the same type that small boats are built out of. The stuff is actually quite easy to bend with a bottom form and C-clamps. (Soak the board in warm water for a while first) You can glass the top and bottom for extra stiffness. HR
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/6/2000 jonno
wrote in from
(132.181.nnn.nnn)
hey im looking for some decent
ply to build up a few boards. Its pretty hard to get
hold of a good ply here
in new zealand. I's wondering if anyone had any ideas.
Ive made up about 4 boards now and have been playing
about with what materials i can get hold of.Ive made up
a male and female mould so i can press out boards 48" with
kickers and a nice amount concavity. The best board ive
come up with is made from new zealand rimu. It comes in
6mm ply. I used a epoxy resin to glue together which acts as a
layer of f-glass. end result , primo amount of flex on a strong
and good looking board. Any ideas on a ply?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/3/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Hey Zekial... try this page for some building tips...
http://www.hugh308.homestead.com/skate_launch_page.html
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/2/2000
RooX
wrote in from
(24.64.nnn.nnn)
thanks again hugh... always here to give a helping hand eh?? cheers
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/2/2000
zekiel
wrote in from
(212.27.nnn.nnn)
i'd like someone to help me building a long skate for
my girlfriend!!
please help
ijust want a site name or some tricks for the shape!
thanx
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/2/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Hey Roox...
I am not sure what % of strenghth is added... but I do know that each layer of thick cloth that I lay on my boards (in the 25" wheel base range) reduces board flex by about 1/2". I weigh aprox 230 lbs... hope this help... HR
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
On 4/1/2000
RooX
wrote in from
(24.64.nnn.nnn)
heres a question.. how much added strength does a layer of fiberglass add to a board?? roughly, in terms of a percent.. (ie like 10% stronger with each coat)
|
|
|
|
|
