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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 4/30/2000 Kanoa
wrote in from
(38.29.nnn.nnn)
That's ok alot of skaters think I'm trying to say Kona like the event, besides I can't tell you how many times I miss spell
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On 4/30/2000 hugh r
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Kanoa kid, I am sorry for the misspelling of your name. Poor reading on my part. No disrespect was meant... HR
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On 4/30/2000 Kanoa Kid
wrote in from
(38.29.nnn.nnn)
Their made of 1/2" baltic Birch 5ply. I don't think I will sell them because they actually look better then they ride, I only have 7 of them left. I'm in college and don't have much time to work on them. I am an artist on the side and if I could get the correct wood I most likely could make a more beautiful board then most I seen, you have to remember these are the first boards I've ever made they take practice. I would like to get in to some different shapes and I want to in -lay gold or bronze mental pin stripes in the wood, they do on exspensive wood boats so why not try it on a longboard. By the way just for the record my skate name is Kanoa Kid, as in the first skate and surf shop that I used to go to when I was a kid "Kanoa Surf" It has long since went out of biz. It also is a Hawian word meaning Bowel for surf or sacred place of surf.
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On 4/30/2000
RooX
wrote in from
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Very well done kona kid... you wouldent happen to be selling any would you??? some excellent craftmanship.
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On 4/30/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
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Hey all,
I have updated my page with some pictures of longboards that were made by The Kona Kid... Nice looking and worth a peek... www.hugh308.homestead.com
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On 4/29/2000
lowdownbugger
wrote in from
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Try using a "spine" of Carbon Fibre tape, it's much cheaper than cloth. I use 2" wide tape and lay similar weight glass either side of it, or you can lay several pieces of tape side by side to cover the full width of the deck. Carbon is really only strong under tension, it's pretty useless under compression loads, so it's a waste to put it on the top of the deck, just use it underneath.
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On 4/28/2000 Glen
wrote in from
(216.102.nnn.nnn)
Play with the carbon fiber. It's awesome, use an epoxy resin. Just be careful when it comes time to cut and sand. Wear a respirator not just a dust mask. You'll find that you can use a lot less carbon than glass to get the same results.
Carbon will probably run you $35.00 to $70.00 a yard depending on weight and weave. The same glass will cost $3.00 to $7.00 a yard but you'll use a bit more.
Let us know how it works out.
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On 4/28/2000
RooX
wrote in from
(142.66.nnn.nnn)
so, anyone out there had any luck with a carbon fiber cloth??? it sounds very cool, yet so far ive had one person say its awesome and anothor say it doesnt work well.. any tips on getting the stuff... and making it work??
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On 4/28/2000 Glen
wrote in from
(216.101.nnn.nnn)
Carbon fibre - really cool material but you DON'T want the splinters that come with working this material. OUCH. Fiberglss splinters are bad enough but they just make you itch. Stay away from the Kevlar/Carbon cloth, you can't get the kevlar to harden in the resin, it doesn't absorb it. When you sand to finish the edges of your deck, they will have Kevlar hair on the edge that you can't sand, melt or cut away.
As far as paint, try a water or oil based paint, not a latex.
You could call a surfboard maker and ask the type of paint they use to airbrush boards. I haven't done much painting of my decks but I do make stickers on my computer inkjet printer and laminate them into either Polyester resin or Epoxy resin. Secret tip - use rice paper and the paper will lose all opacity and only your printing will show. This is cool as long as your graphic doesn't use white.
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On 4/28/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Hey RooX,
I will re-live the painful bubble memories in hopes that it helps you, then in turn you can help me not do it agian.
Starting at the wood: 1)polyester resin/glass cloth
2)Sheffield Super Krome (9.6% Aluminium, 90.4% mineral spirits-Coumaron-Idene Resin-Soya Oil)
(At this point everything was good, but my finish was ugly, so I decided to repaint)
3)Krylon living Color latex enamal (everything still seemed okay)
4)final layer of polyester resin, no cloth (this is where the bubbling went nuts)
What I have done on my most recent board is to skip the resin on the bottom side. I stained the wood, taped it off and shot some paint. It turned out pretty good (for me). On my next one I will do the same except that I am going to go back to using laquer only. I have had good luck with that on arrows that I build.
I hope this helps and I will appericiate any knowledge you can pass back this way.
As far as carbon fiber cloth goes, there is a guy on "The Homemade Skateboard Clinic" (yahoo club) who builds boards out of it. He is in the UK and has been extemely helpful to me in locating other materials, even though I am in So Cal. It might be worth a look. Have fun and good luck... HR
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On 4/28/2000
RooX
wrote in from
(142.66.nnn.nnn)
Hugh.. what paints and resin did you use when you had the bubble problem?? if i do it i guess i could learn form your mistake.. (ill probably make a bigger mistake of my own of course) but im really stuck on this idea.. (althought the carbon fiber layup would be really nice as well...)
cheers guys,
RooX
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On 4/28/2000
RooX
wrote in from
(142.66.nnn.nnn)
thankx for the tips MDH, id love to know what your friends use on their kayaks.. where do you acquire this carbon fiber cloth?? it sounds like a great idea.. ive got some carbon fiber mountain bke parts and the yall look sharp, love to get a board to look like that..
PS. what is the relative cost compared to standard glass.. and do you use the same technique/resins as in reg. glass??
Cheers
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On 4/26/2000 MDH
wrote in from
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I might have an idea for those of you trying to paint and glass your boards. I have had some success painting graphics on fiberglass boat hulls using Gel-Coat paint. You can paint it on and then glass over it and it doesn't react. I also have a friend who paints fiberglass sea kayaks and slip boats. I'll find out what they're using. I have seen some of their wooden boats with graphics that have been glassed over. It holds up alot better than polyurethane or clearcoat.
I'm riding a homemade 40" board now that was made by a friend. They used black carbon fiber cloth rather than standard glass and it looks great, it is really strong, but keeps the board really flexy, they used 9 ply. If the board was 11 ply with carbon on the bottom and standard glass on top, I think it would strong enough for heavier riders. Try it and you won't have to paint it.
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On 4/26/2000 hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Painting and finishing have always been my weakest skill... so any advice I would give on those subjects should be ignored!!
I am almost finished with my first laminated board. I used 3 layers of 1/8" ply and 3 layers of glass cloth. I borrowed the shape from G&S. The board is quite strong and has a good flex and rebound rate, although it is too soft for my weight. It will work well for my boys though (90 lbs and 140 lbs)
I am starting another one that will be very similar, but with 4 layers of each. I will let you know how that one responds to big guys.
I hope to have some pictures of the 3 ply on my site by days end if anyone wants to check it out. www.hugh308.homestead.com
See ya... HR
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On 4/24/2000
RooX
wrote in from
(24.64.nnn.nnn)
so what if i were to paint on top of the glass.. if its possible what type of paint works best?? and is there anything on the market that will give a board a more glossy look than glossy polyurethane???
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On 4/21/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
RooX... great questions.
I only know about a few of them though. The resin and glass will make everything below it darker.
As far as paint goes, all I can tell you is that I have had the misfortune of having the resin bubble the paint below. Has something to do with both of them having a different base. Hopefully someone out there has had more success than I have and will share their skills... HR
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On 4/20/2000
RooX
wrote in from
(142.66.nnn.nnn)
few questions. If i were to be painting a mural on an unfinished deck, made of baltic birch then whats the best paint to use, i was considering a full fledged painting, not just a few colors, like a scene of the ocean or somthing.
2nd question, im going to glass the board to, using the wood as the core and then laying two or three layers on top, will this affect the painting at all? or is it more or less clear... i aliitel distortion wont kill me i guess.
and thirdly wha tis the best type of clear grip, (i know non of them perform like black tape) but the board is just for cruising and showing off. so im just makingthe board for a pure style sorta ride, any opinions are welcome brothers.
cheers
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On 4/18/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Hello board builders...
I have just finished and experimental board with camber and concave. It is my usual kind-o-ugly finishing job, but it is strong, with some flex, and rides really well for big guys. It would be too stiff for anyone under 200 lbs. Pix are on my page. www.hugh308.homestead.com
see ya... HR
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On 4/16/2000 Pre-School Rider
wrote in from
(209.198.nnn.nnn)
Mike,take a nice,slow look through the Archives on this site,RE;Homemades,and Decks.There is much to learn about how to aquire the board of your dreams,But it's all right here,just start digging!
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On 4/16/2000
Mike in LOndon
wrote in from
(132.185.nnn.nnn)
Thanks for the advice, Herbn ... I guess you're right - laminate first, cut later. In which case it could be a better idea to get hold of an old waterski or snowboard and cut it to shape. I could even glue a hardwood veneer onto it to give it extra strength and classy finish. Mike
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On 4/16/2000
magnus
wrote in from
(212.151.nnn.nnn)
Hey everybody! I tried longboarding for the first time today
and boy am i hooked, we carved the swedish streets to pieces!
So tomorrow i'm going to buy som really nice plywood and start
to build my own and now i NEED SOME SHAPES, outlines, measures,
figures, numbers!! Please MAIL ME pronto if you have anything
of interest, classic shapes wanted. Rip for fun!
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On 4/16/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
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Cutting multiple layers to the exact shape of the board and saturating them glue and pressing them into the shape ready to drill for trucks is probabely impossible even shaping a core and layering with glass is a tough one to get real nice laminate first cut later ,save much asperin.
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On 4/15/2000
Mike in London
wrote in from
(132.185.nnn.nnn)
Can anyone give me advice about making a fibreglass board? Is it best to layer-up a rectangular sheet of fibreglass and resin and THEN cut it into the shape I want OR cut each sheet of fibreglass matting to the required shape and bond them together? Also - what thickness would I need for a 60" board with a 48" wheelbase ... about 1/2"? I thought I might use one layer of thin plywood (3/16"?) to give me a nice finish on the deck surface and strengthen it with four layers of matting. Does this sound like a good idea? All advice gratefully received.
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On 4/14/2000 TJ
wrote in from
(165.248.nnn.nnn)
It just hit me! take some XT wheels, flip 'um inside out, so the solid part is on the inside, and scrape it on there, where it is solid! am I a geneus, or what!
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On 4/14/2000 TJ
wrote in from
(165.248.nnn.nnn)
Hey, Hugh R, those brakes sound narley, but it would probably wear down on the inside of the wheels pretty quickly. It's a good consept, but sounds like it needs improvement.
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