Jason Mitchell, Seismic Nationals 2007, Hybrid Slalom.  Photo by Greg Fadell Northern California Downhill Skateboarding Association
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Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
Topic Home Made Boards
On 5/12/2000 Kanoa wrote in from (38.29.nnn.nnn)

I have been thinking about the same thing for a while, being that sometimes I use goofy foot for tricks and other times reg for down hill. Maybe some kind hand held leash like / cable brake could be applied to the truck. Maybe the co could have it as a screw in option so they wouldn't have to make two sets of trucks and skaters could change thier mind to suit thier ride needs, that way the stopping truck could always be in the back. Another thing I was thinking about, you could step on the brake by accident,ouch, then again you could trip on the leash. It's some thing that we'll have to change in our ride skills, at least till a hand held remote comes out, give another 10- 15 years, maybe even cruise control, yea baby .

 
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On 5/11/2000 Mike wrote in from (64.7.nnn.nnn)

Jon.

ur idea about the brake on the breakboard being different would not work. First of all there are goofy footers like me. and that would mean i would need the break in front. if it was in front the board would flip forward just like on a bike. i think they got the right idea.

 
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On 5/11/2000 RooX wrote in from (24.64.nnn.nnn)

according to my prof, down in south america there a lots of longboarders and at least once a week there would be an artical in the local papers about someone getting hit with flying boards or falling off and boards going through car windows or just the good old person falls and dies.. he said it was quite commonplace and they were in the proccess of putting laws up against longboarding...

 
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On 5/11/2000 Jon wrote in from (209.232.nnn.nnn)

The surf leash sound's good. Has anyone else had a problem with runaway boards? I mean, it seems like you would hear about boards Maiming people and going through car windows and stuff. I know it happens with snowboards because my cousin almost got killed by one.

 
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On 5/10/2000 Ben Newman wrote in from (203.59.nnn.nnn)

Hi guy's, just a reminder that Brakeboard is coming.
And to Kanoa Kid the price is in Australian dollars. Half it and you roughly get US dollars. That price is also for a complete board. The trucks will be avaliable on their own for about $75 us dollars.

 
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On 5/9/2000 RooX wrote in from (24.64.nnn.nnn)

a retractable surf leash.. 10 feet in lenght that coils into a little receptacle hidden on the bottom of the board.. ounds good to me.. might hurt if it really sped away on you though.. just my instant answer to a tough question

 
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On 5/9/2000 Jon wrote in from (63.23.nnn.nnn)

About those brakes, it would be nice if they worked when you took your foot of the button instead of when you put your foot on. Then your board wouln't go out of control when you ate it. You would have to put it on your front truck so you could push off. It would be mostly for downhill stuff in witch you wouln't have to move your feet.

There needs to be some sort of device to keep a board from getting away. Any ideas?

 
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On 5/7/2000 hugh r wrote in from (205.216.nnn.nnn)

I have been in contact with the guys at brakeboard... hopefully in a few months the longboard trucks will be available for export. I keep bugging them because I want to be the first guy in the US to own a set... hopefully they read this. Now don't quote me on this, but if I understood correctly, the trucks may be available seperate from the boards. The price had not been determined when we communicated last month... HR

 
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On 5/7/2000 Kanoa Kid wrote in from (38.29.nnn.nnn)

Try brakeboard.com I would get some if I had an extra $400 bones to blow, I think I'll wait for them to come dowen.

 
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On 5/5/2000 ben wrote in from (38.31.nnn.nnn)

I've been thinking about a breaking system too. Several months ago I made one and it worked pretty well. It stoped me very quickly, but I couldn't carve very much without them binding up. It is kind of pointless to not be able to carve on your longboard. Any way, here is what I did--
I basically had a spoiler on the back end of by deck that had one bolt on each side of it. On the bolts were some springs. Then , under my deck I had a piece of wood 12 inches long and 2 inches wide. I loosly bolted it in place about about 16 inches from the tail. Then, I had the 2 pieces of wood run over the wheels. I cut out the pieces of wood so that they would fit nicely over the wheels. Then I Bolted the pieces of wood to the spoiler on top of my deck. What happened was that when I stepped on my spoiler thing, it pressed down the pieces of wood which in turn pressed on the wheels. It worked very well, but if you went to carve, it would bind and I would fly off it at high speed.

So, now I have a new plan. I will use aluminum bars that are about 1/8 th of aninch thick and 1 inch wide. I will bend the bar so it it fits over the wheel- it will be strait for 8 inches, then it will have the bend to hug the wheel, then it will be flat for another 3 inches or so. I plan to make wheel cut outs that will let me stick the bent part of the aluminum up thru it so that it wont bind on the carve. The rest of the system will basically be the same i think. I'll have to mess around with the break pads, i dont knnow what material is best but ill find it.
please put some feedback on it for me any ideas are appreceiated thanks Ben

 
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On 5/4/2000 namon wrote in from (209.232.nnn.nnn)

Can I get a action figure that has a string on the back, and when you pull it, it says "Hang ten" or something? that would rule
.
.
bomb hills
not people

 
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On 5/4/2000 Herbn wrote in from (207.198.nnn.nnn)

I just ordered billet aluminum, to make a laminating press/clamp that will make 48x11x5/16 thick sheets of vertically laminated hardwood, two sheets and a centerply of fiberglass or crossgrain will be pressed into a concave mold,someone suggested a press using water and a piston and bolt system that has been used to press limited run airplane parts.I was thinking of biting the Sims logo for the graphics.

 
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On 5/3/2000 RooX wrote in from (24.64.nnn.nnn)

make that kung-fu grip..

 
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On 5/3/2000 RooX wrote in from (24.64.nnn.nnn)

can my action figure have king-fu grip??

 
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On 5/3/2000 Kanoa Kid wrote in from (38.29.nnn.nnn)

Yea guys and maybe we can even make Herbn, Hugh r, Kanoa Kid and RooX action figures to go with them.

 
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On 5/3/2000 Herbn wrote in from (207.198.nnn.nnn)

Sounds like you need a little floral print shirt to wear while you're finger carving.

 
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On 5/3/2000 hugh r wrote in from (205.216.nnn.nnn)

I would suggest that the kanoa kid empire get involved in the long-fingerboard business too. Imagine all the happy finger dudes carving and sliding on custom built "kid-carves"

Maybe he can get randal to make a run of mini-trucks. They could be called them ".02's"
Power paw could make the "mini-paw"
Finger pad sliding gloves could be developed.

No need to stop there. Imagine mini-dirtboards or mini-luges... The marketing potential is endless... Hey Kanoa, when you get out of school, count me in... HR

 
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On 5/2/2000 RooX wrote in from (24.64.nnn.nnn)

yes sir... start the kanoa kid longboard buisness empire. first you make the longboards... then you get the money... then you get the women... whohahaha!

 
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On 5/2/2000 Kanoa kid wrote in from (38.29.nnn.nnn)

The Boards are actually I little to stiff for me, like an old Makaha, I have I real hard time out here finding good wood. The boards are made of 1/2" 5ply baltic birch, they ride ok I just think with a litle practice I can get them to ride like the store brands, I want to go concave as well. What I'm looking for is 1/4, 9ply or 12 ply baltic birch or maple, with out any knots or boats (patches) when I the lumber shops out here they laugh and tell me that it doesn't exsist, which is bull. Never the less they are stained and painted. When my finals end in school at PC & ASU I can have time, may be I can make some trades or deals for painting others boards, I have an orange hybicus board as well and some paintings of saint martin & kit scenes as well, I'll put up a web site in the next week or two.

 
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On 5/2/2000 namon wrote in from (209.232.nnn.nnn)

damn Kanoa Kid, I am really feeling your boards. I really like the floweral patteren on the board all the way to the left. Would there be a way for you to paint mine the same way? Email me. namon@lovemania.com
Thanks
.
.
bomb hills,
not people

 
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On 5/2/2000 nev wrote in from (206.170.nnn.nnn)

Kanoa Kid,those boards look great,are you saying there all painted decks?man they are stylie,what is the problem with the ride?are they without flex?my dwindling quiver looks similar,ive laminated many dark,light,strong,soft timbers to get the same affect,first mistake was a soft timber running where the trux were mounted,the board(1 year old)gave up on sunday,splitting down the centre along a grain,so its good to no the glue is good.

 
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On 5/2/2000 hugh r wrote in from (205.216.nnn.nnn)

Hey Glen,

Your right about it being an art form... I have not given up hope. I am going to try to salvage this board. I am currently using the cheapo resins. A buddy of mine has been trying to convince me to use the West System stuff. Until today, I did not think that it would be worth the extra cost... I have changed my mind on that one! Thanks for the input... HR

 
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On 5/2/2000 Glen wrote in from (216.102.nnn.nnn)

what kind of resin are you using?
I've found the stuff they sell at Home Depot and Osh, same brand, is pretty crumby. For Poly resin I go to Fastlane boardshop in Burbank and buy Swell Products laminating resin and Finishing resin. This stuff works well and finishes nicely. Your better but more expensive bet is West Systems Epoxy resin. You'll use half as much but spend 4 times the amount of money. Don't use the West finishing resin, I've never been able to get that stuff to mix right or cure properly, it usually just makes a gooey mess.
Fiberglassing is an art form, keep at it.

 
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On 5/1/2000 hugh r wrote in from (205.216.nnn.nnn)

Boy am I frustrated...

I have recently been laminating my own ply/glass boards. The first one turned out pretty good, although too soft. The second one has me bummed.

You see, I did not put enough resin between one set of layers. After drying for more than a day, it split right off. I tried adding more resin and re-pressing it. 24 hours later, it split off again. I pulled it completly off and sanded it down.

I now stare at it wondering if I should try to attach another layer, or if I should scrap it and start over. I am bumbed at the thought of not only throwing away twenty bucks in material, but also the wasted hours. I will probably try to salvage it, but I don't know for sure. Drives me nuts when things don't come together like they are intended too.

Sorry for dumping on you guys, but thanks for letting me vent... HR

 
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On 4/30/2000 RooX wrote in from (142.66.nnn.nnn)

Sorry bout that misname kanoa kid... still nice boards though

 
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