|
|
Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
|
Topic |
Home Made Boards |
Homemade board from sctrach
|
On 5/16/2006
roger
wrote in from
United States
(69.123.nnn.nnn)
hey ive been reserching about making a homemade short board. ive thin the thin air press stuff but its alittle too pricey. i was think of just taking 7 layers of veneer with titebond glue inbetween all of it then clamping them alldown to a bblank element board i have. sounds good? will it create a tail and nose good? any suggestions? thanksss
|
|
|
|
Finished mould
|
On 5/16/2006 David Baker
wrote in from
United States
(209.40.nnn.nnn)
Mould finished ready to be used.
|
|
|
|
shapes overboard
|
On 5/16/2006 shapeshifter
wrote in from
United States
(198.160.nnn.nnn)
template shapes:
fun shape (full) pintail fish stinger cut-away (open wheel wells)
contour shapes (profile):
flat concave convex (aka: rolled edges) "w" (combination concave/convex) camber rocker "s" (combination camber/rocker) dropped (lowered platform between the trucks)
the area of the least mass on a template usually presents the location of most flex. contour differences such as concave and camber alters the properties of the flex while combined elements changes the whole picture altogether. template patterns usually dictates style of ride and foot placement preferences (ie: carving high up on the nose as opposed to slashing far back at the tail) while contour has a greater effect on surface grip and leverage it also dictates style of riding or has an affect on foot placement.
recommendations? try gravity, barfoot, arbor, landyachtz, tahoe, homemade... lots to choose from, have fun trying them all.
|
|
|
|
shapes of boards
|
On 5/16/2006 GroundHangers BTS
wrote in from
Australia
(211.27.nnn.nnn)
Board 40-42' x 9, Prefer no flex ( cut one out of Oak, Mill to 17-16mm thick, all up it will cost you 10-15 clams, if that!) Randal 2s 180s 68-70m x 86a wheels 2 wedged risers
Thats pretty good start to have a stack of fun on or to take on any hill. Just dont forget the Randals!
Greg
|
|
|
|
shapes of boards
|
On 5/14/2006 matt
wrote in from
(70.126.nnn.nnn)
what are the difference in shapes of boards do to effect the ride of the board. I've been skateboarding for a few years now but i want to get a longboard. What size, shape and brand do you reccommend for a 200lb guy?
|
|
|
|
Thanks
|
On 5/14/2006 popwarguy
wrote in from
Canada
(199.126.nnn.nnn)
Munchh and David thanks for the info ill try.
|
|
|
|
Mould for a skateboard...
|
On 5/14/2006 David Baker
wrote in from
United States
(209.40.nnn.nnn)
Good timing I guess. I just glued up my newest mould. It will be used for slalom boards up to 32" long. This was made with a flush-cut router bit and a 1/4" hardboard template. Follow up with some sanding time to smooth out and its ready.
|
|
|
|
presses
|
On 5/13/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.132.nnn.nnn)
I feel i should answer a little more, i myself use poystyreen foam as a mold, but i use a vacuum bag press which is easy to use and is inexpencive (good way to start), hydrolic press machines use various diffrent materials, this depends on how many your want to press at a time, what pressures you are using and so on..... Some are made from hard wood, some aluminium, some from nylon, most are shaped on a CNC machine, but it can be done by hand, if you have the skill and the time??
S you need to ask yourself alot of questions, how many do i want to make at once, if its just one, then a vac bag will do, but if its 20, then alot more pressure and a much more durable mold will be needed, and it will need a top and bottom!
Now you know where to start have fun.
|
|
|
|
popwarguy
|
On 5/13/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.132.nnn.nnn)
popwarguy,
i dont think anyone on here is rude, but asking such a genral question and expecting all the answers could be seen as being rude also, most people on here have been doing this for a long time, most a happy to share their experience with specific things, but your question as herbn put it, would take many pages to answer!
the internet is a great tool, goggle will find you alot of info, there is also a search on this site, which you can use to find all the posts about certain things like 'press' Click here for link this is the search result, there are 100 posts here to read through!
not pointing at you specificly, but i think some people find this forum and ask a genral question and think the fairys will give all the answers, i mean a few posts back i spoke about wood, vacuum bag and glue, the very next post asks a question about glue? So was my post invisible or what???
Some background info about the situation you are going to use whatever you need to know about, helps to be more specific and will get you a more precise answer.
As for owning a skate company and working for yourself, i dont think it silly, but after you have done alot more research you will find, that unless you have alot of money to start with it is a long uphill struggle, so just enjoy making yourself a few boards and see where you get with it.
Hope this helps?
|
|
|
|
specific qusetion
|
On 5/12/2006 popwarguy
wrote in from
Canada
(199.126.nnn.nnn)
where so you get molds for hydraulic presses that shape the skateboard and what are they made of.
for the question on why i want to make my own skateboard. Its beacause i want to open my own company some day. and set skateboards for low prices.
you might find that pritty stupid but i want to do it and i want my job to be owned by me and onley me and not work for anyone but myself.
If you can help me without being rude than that would be much appreshated.
|
|
|
|
mold maker
|
On 5/12/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(64.12.nnn.nnn)
there seems to be something rather....unbalenced about a 9 word question that really takes many pages /hrs to answer. Look up with the search, figure some of it out, get stuckin the middle, or make an attempt, and talk about it, why do you want to make a skateboard, what is your idea ,how is it different,ect ect, and then ask a specific question.
|
|
|
|
how to make mold
|
On 5/11/2006 popwar guy
wrote in from
Canada
(199.126.nnn.nnn)
how do you make a mold for the skateboard
|
|
|
|
thank you
|
On 5/11/2006 trevor
wrote in from
United States
(71.116.nnn.nnn)
i will use 3/4 inch baltic berch. i wil use some epoxy to to hold it together thanks
|
|
|
|
Wood,Glue, Thanks
|
On 5/10/2006 Spyralspyder
wrote in from
United States
(24.15.nnn.nnn)
Hey Thx for the advice, I think what I'm gonna do is use 2 3 ply baltic birch sheets, and 3 Maple, or Birch Veneer sheets (Veneer-Ply-Veneer-Ply-Veneer)Veneer on top under the griptape, Veneer in the middle then Veneer on the bottom where I'd do some art, Im thinking maybe less of an aggresive kicktail, but still a slight tail. In the meantime Im riding my oldschool powell peralta. I like to cruise on big boards.
|
|
|
|
GLUES
|
On 5/10/2006
Jeff
wrote in from
United States
(66.189.nnn.nnn)
Hey, i'm making some longboards and i'm trying to find the best glue/epoxy to use when building it. Any advice would help.
thanks, Jeff
|
|
|
|
Spyralspyder and Trevor
|
On 5/10/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.132.nnn.nnn)
Spyralspyder,
my last was made from 3x 3mm 3 ply birch, i used this in a Roarockit vacuum bag, it worked fine, the deck is solid, i used Titebond III, it great glue, low/no oder, so you havent got to worry about stinking the place out or drifting off with the fairys, you clean up your roller under the tap and its slightly coloured (beige) instead of white, its also waterproof, what more can you want. As for the birch, try and get Baltic birch and not birch 'face' ply, as it sounds the outside faces only are birch, the inside ply can be very dodgy and have holes, knots even gaps, i've had a deck snap where there was a lump of wood and it was weak at that point, using 3 ply you can be sure that if this is what you end up with every 2 plys are quality birch.
Trevor, sounds like you needed to add another layer, how thick was the sheet?
|
|
|
|
dh board
|
On 5/9/2006 yan0
wrote in from
United States
(140.233.nnn.nnn)
go for 3/4" BALTIC BIRCH, its the cabinet grade stuff. Its more expensive because its actually birch all the way through, not softwood and two veneers. No need to glue, just draw a center line, and go nuts. If you use the search tool, you will find a great deal on the wood to use in DH/Dropthrough boards
|
|
|
|
WHAT WOOD SHOULD I USE????
|
On 5/9/2006 TREVOR
wrote in from
United States
(71.116.nnn.nnn)
HI I TRYED MAKING A BOARD OUT OF TWO PECES OF BIRCH PLYWOOD AND THEN GLUED THEM. IT WAS TOO FLEXY AND FINALY BROKE. THAT MUST HAVE BEEB THE WRONG WOOD . WHAT WOOD WORKS BEST FOTR MAKING A DH OR A SOLID NON-FLEXY BOARD??????????/
THANKS
|
|
|
|
loosey goosey
|
On 5/9/2006
Tai
wrote in from
United States
(64.142.nnn.nnn)
I got a bit of a problem…
The holes on my board where I mount the trucks are loose…
This is my fav longboard of all time and I’m looking for a good solution.
I thought about gluing the screws…
I thought about going with bigger screws and drilling bigger holes in the riser blocks and the trucks (indy stage9)…
Do you have any other ideas/solutions/stuff that works?
Thanks a bunch
|
|
|
|
Ribbed Press
|
On 5/8/2006 Yan0
wrote in from
United States
(140.233.nnn.nnn)
Spyralspyder, The one thing you may run into using veneer is that because it is so thin, that it "kinks" at and between the ribs. If this dosent happen, then it sounds great. I use a similar press, but with the "ribs" running front to back rather than side to side. I'd reccomend the "toothless method" with two sheets of 5 ply birch Becaus its A: really easy and B: makes a great feeling board, but thats just me.
As far as glue, I use West System Epoxy, but I know people have acheived excellent results using Titebond II and III or a similar wood glue.
Try the Veneer, if it kinks go to a beefier wood, otherwise keep on truckin yan0
|
|
|
|
Wood advice
|
On 5/8/2006 Spyralspyder
wrote in from
United States
(24.15.nnn.nnn)
Hiya all, Ive got a few questions. Im almost done making a screw press for longboard building. The set up I have is a bunch of ribs that have curves cut into them that you would sandwich your wood between. I got the idea from "Toothless Longboards",.... anyway I was thinking that instead of using plywood I would just go with the 10 sheets of maple veneer. (Toothless Recommends 2 5 ply's of birch sandwiched and clamped) I was thinking that since I have a kicktail I should go with the veneer because thats alot of stress to put on already formed plywood. My setup is 9 ribs at 40" deep concave and a kicktail being mechanically pressed. Anxious to hear anyones advice on wood and glue.
|
|
|
|
re: solids
|
On 5/4/2006
fitz
wrote in from
(124.168.nnn.nnn)
nice job sean. solid hardwood can be tricky to work with. enjoy you new ride man
|
|
|
|
solids
|
On 5/4/2006
ninefeet
wrote in from
France
(212.234.nnn.nnn)
28" long ? seems to me much longer...
|
|
|
|
solids??
|
On 5/3/2006 Sean
wrote in from
United States
(68.1.nnn.nnn)
Yeah they're hardwood but I'm not 100% what kind. The ones hiding off to the side are some old ones I made. They're a lot smaller and thinner than my most recent though.
|
|
|
|
solids??
|
On 5/3/2006
Munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.142.nnn.nnn)
Hey Sean, looking good, are they solid woods? And what are the ones hiding down the side??
|
|
|
|
|