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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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On 5/30/2000 RooX
wrote in from
(24.64.nnn.nnn)
wassup fuzzy baby, man your inquisitive today. Lets see here.. where to start... ok the long board, your set on plywood so get 3/4" or 1" 9 or 13-ply baltic birch. depending on your weight one of those will have zero flex, i havent ever used marine and i have heard mixed results. most good though.. cabinent quality works great for me. if its gonna be for bombing i would use around a 31-34" wheelbase, or better yet make the back truck adjustable by a few inches by making a number of holes in the board.. very cool custom rides then. make the board wider than you think you will need, i like em around 10" minimum, ive got a 11.5" wide 48" board that is just dreamy to ride. but it again depends on your preferences. Im going to assume your "shortboard" will be for park riding right? I got use to a road rider for park stuff so im a big fan of flex for the control and dampening of shock on a park board, i would use 1/2" or 5/8" 9-ply birch for me (i weight in at about 165lbs.) and if your just gonna copy a design i assume you know the wheelbase you want and the shape. and if your just going to use the board as a slalom i would use 1/2" again fitted with a layer or two of fibreglass, it gives the board less sag and more spring in my experiences. Somewhere on this board i remember hugh giving an explanation as to how much sag a layer will take out of a board.. i think its like 1/2" or something. I think glassing a board almost always takes it up a step in style.. just to be able to say.. yeah i made this, AND i fibreglassed it too! people will be mistaking you for some famouse board maker and begging for your autograph.
Cheers fuzzy.. any other questions (or if i just didnt make anything clear)just yell.
RooX
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On 5/30/2000
DIY FUZZ
wrote in from
(193.62.nnn.nnn)
Question, questions, questions...
I have many - who hath thou wounderous knowledge to answer thee?
I'm building a couple of sticks - one in the 48-50inch size (based on pintail sector9/Dragon styley thang), and one 36-38inch 'shortboard' (I wanna re-build one - allready got a hardwood one, real heavy, man!)
1. The Loooong stick is gonna be no-flex, I wanna use ply not hard-wood. What type of ply and how many (marine could be outa my price range).
2. How long between trucks...wheelbase length
The shortboard is gonna be kitted with angled risers, Pivots/RII, Kryptos (blue) - I want a shorter board (almost a slalom style board) that'll slide and carve/turn well...should the deck flex or not? I've tried a Gravity 38" SNAPPER - the thing slides real well, stiff deck but well pumpable/carvable...if a bit sketchy at high speeds.
Basically this board has gotta be more lightweight, ultra-responsive...
3. Yeah...what about glassing the decks? is it worth it?
I've got plenty more questions...
but still waiting, RII are on order...
FUZZ
xxx
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On 5/30/2000
vanders
wrote in from
(139.134.nnn.nnn)
could someone please give me a quick rundown on how to fibreglass a longboard made of ply, and what are the advantages of doing so
thanks
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On 5/29/2000 RooX
wrote in from
(24.64.nnn.nnn)
P.P.S a little flex goes a long way to improving comfort and in my opinion control as well!
Cheers,
have fun,
RooX
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On 5/29/2000 RooX
wrote in from
(24.64.nnn.nnn)
how thick was your wood? and what wheelbase are you using? i use 9-ply 1/2" on my 42inchers with a 31" wheelbase and lets just say i weigh substantially more than you and i dont notice the flex that much. i would say get 3/4" or even 5/8" and there would be no flex... you dont want anything thicker than that (in my opinion) for a 42" board, you want the thing to be light. And 9-ply shouldent be flimsy either.. i ride my original 1/2inch 44"er around town to this day and its over a year old. (course i dont ollie it or anything) If your deadly serious to get the board solid as concrete get some fibreglass and it will last forever. P.S baltic Birch works smashing
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On 5/29/2000
That Hella Hot Guy
wrote in from
(24.1.nnn.nnn)
Hello Ladies and Gents:
I am making a new longboard deck. My old one was made out of 9 ply baltic birch and was WAY too flexible and flimsy. I weigh about 125lbs and am planning on making a downhill pintail deck, and i want NO flex at all. It's going to be about 42in. What type of wood should i use and where can i get it?
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On 5/27/2000 racer
wrote in from
(203.12.nnn.nnn)
As i often snap my deck after only a couple of weeks doing stairs and huge drops. i have quikly ran out of money. There was a building site close to my house so I had a look and saw a huge pile of Ply that they use on the stairs before thay concrete them so i took about enough to make aroung 10 deck, to last me the year and that was six months ago and i still and only on my second. Thay are stronger than any deck you can buy in the shops any day and thay were all FREE. you should check out your local building sites. It's worth it. Catch ya
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On 5/26/2000 RooX
wrote in from
(24.64.nnn.nnn)
its beutiful... i would love to get my hands on one.
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On 5/26/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Yeah, but I am too poor... just had to buy my wife a new frig and over-range microwave. And worse than that, she is throwing a b-day party for her life-long-friend on monday and I have to feed about 60 people! Enough complaining... HR
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On 5/26/2000
Evoracer
wrote in from
(216.128.nnn.nnn)
Re: Alva
Glen, send me a note at home. Anyone else?
Evo
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On 5/26/2000
chuperfrog
wrote in from
(163.187.nnn.nnn)
few months ago iwas in my father garage and i suddenly had the desire to made a 60" board..i got some wood, things to build it, and here i go..i got 3/4" plywood with 9 lays...so idraw the shape of my old school friend on the wood, some kind of old longboard surf one, and i cutted it with my saw....then i did a wheel clearance, a nice worked tail, and i cutted a beam of the same wood to put under the board, stuck with neopren glue..cose i must say that i'm 6'8" and going with the confortable weight of 230 lbs..i stuck the 2 piece of wood together, and i drilled the truck holes, and i putted the frist lay of not colored vernish on the board, and some fiber glass under to protect it..then i use 2 different colors of vernish to do old schools lines on the board..yeah , it is great !!and the last tip is to use some little salt puton a generous lay of vernish to have a translucid grip not to hidde the draws...and it works like heaven..welcome on a quiet earth..
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On 5/25/2000 RooX
wrote in from
(24.64.nnn.nnn)
depending on your weight you could use any where from 1/2" to 3/4" plywood baltic birch work nicley(i use a minimum of 9-ply) with a layer or three of fibre glass on top and bottom.. the other choice for a big board like this is hard woods. Im not to sure what woods you have around but a 60" board would be pricy to make as the hard woods cost an arm and a leg, but look so darn nice. I wouldent recomend a pin-nose or tail on a board this size, why cut down on walking space right? get a big blunt nose and perhaps a square tail or mabey a swallow tail, something that doesnt taper off as quick as a pin. for more ideas check out the homemade skateboard site that Hugh R made on yahoo, its got a wealth of info for you. Just remember to have fun.
Cheers,
RooX
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On 5/25/2000
Matt J. A.
wrote in from
(64.41.nnn.nnn)
Hello to all. First board attempt here. Just throwing around some ideas. I have a 42" freeride marvin with r-2's and either power paws for concrete or xt's for offroad. Now, I'd like to make a big 60" deck for some lazy s curves downhill. What kind of wood should i use? Could I do some kind of pin nose and tail design? Give me some ideas. Thanks for the expertise!
Matt
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On 5/25/2000 Glen
wrote in from
(216.102.nnn.nnn)
Evo, the Alva deck is awesome. I want one. No, I have to have one. Let me know if it's a possibility.
Glen
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On 5/25/2000 RooX
wrote in from
(24.64.nnn.nnn)
wow... you must live the the magical land of id or something you lucky man. I would love to find even one person who rides in my city let alone have a neighbour hardcore enough to have 20 broken decks just laying in his yard.
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On 5/25/2000
aftermath
wrote in from
(152.169.nnn.nnn)
anyhow, after about 1,000,000 years of longboarding inactivity, the weather finally got good enough for me to seriously desire to longboard. so i hopped on my old board and it just wasn't the same (i guess i need change as much as i need to sk8). so i made a new one.
i was digging thru my neighbor's trash, and i almost ejaculated as i uncovered prolly 20 shortboard decks. so i sifted thru them and found about 10 that looked good (it was dark). upon arriving home, i found that only 4 were unbroken, but holy moly! 4 decks for free! anyhow, i took two of the old ones and sawed the broken part off (it was broken right behind the front truck) and put the two long pieces on a mahogany spine. so now i have a 41"x8" board, 26" wheelbase, double kick, concave, with rIIs and 70mm kryptos. man, what a sweet ride. a kwyk ryde.
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On 5/24/2000
Evoracer
wrote in from
(63.206.nnn.nnn)
Thanks Kanoa Check Hugh's Yahoo club for old post concerning wheel wells.
evo
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On 5/24/2000 Kanoa
wrote in from
(38.29.nnn.nnn)
Evo, awsome boards (posted on hugh's site), I need to learn how to make the wheel wells myself. I also must metion what a killer grip tape paint combo that is. I can't wait to see roox's wood burnt boards as well.
Keepin the vibe, Kanoa
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On 5/24/2000 Herbn
wrote in from
(207.198.nnn.nnn)
Don't buy the sucky little three wheel bench top bandsaws,because the smaller radius of the wheels and one extra bending per cycle,and then the shortness of the blade,they get dull or snap quickly,I think I spent 320 or so on my band saw (Delta)and it works ok,there are better.
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On 5/23/2000
Evo
wrote in from
(63.206.nnn.nnn)
Hugh,
Thanks for the plug on my decks. It's a wonder what can be done with minimal tools & a little forethought.
Evo
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On 5/23/2000 Beachcomber
wrote in from
(207.62.nnn.nnn)
Thanks for the tool tips! I'll start saving my nickels and dimes.
Ride on...
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On 5/23/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Beachcomber,
I have used a jig saw many times to cut out decks. Make sure that you use a pretty powerful one because the weak ones tend to slant the angle of the cut. I personally find it hard to cut nice straight lines with a jig saw, so I always cut the pattern a little oversized and sand it down.
Lately I have been using a table-top band saw. If you check the import tool stores (it's harbor freight in my town) you can sometimes find cheapies that seem to work well enough for decks. I have seen them for as low as $89.00 The qualilty is not nearly as nice as the high dollar ones though.
Have fun... HR
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On 5/23/2000
hugh r
wrote in from
(205.216.nnn.nnn)
Hey Roox,
I would be very happy to post pictures of you boards on my site. Send them as .jpg's to the e-mail acct listed above if poss.
If you only have photos let me know and I will shoot you an address to send them to and I would be happy to scan them, then send them back.
Also if you have pictures of building jigs or any neat skating stuff. I would be willing to add additional pages to show cool stuff...
Have fun... HR
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On 5/23/2000 RooX
wrote in from
(24.64.nnn.nnn)
a jig-saw or a sabre saw work fine just practice on a piece of scrap wood first, and be sure to cut on the outside edge of the line, you can always sand down to a perfect edge, but if you gouge into the deck then its a pain. If your making a simple traditional longboard design (for walking etc), with straight sides than i recomend not using a jig saw, instead use a table saw or at the vary least a circular saw, much quicker and you get more exact lines (perfect ones if you use a table saw).
Cheers, and remember, making it should be as much of a joy as riding it!
RooX
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On 5/23/2000 Beachcomber
wrote in from
(129.65.nnn.nnn)
I don't have a ton of bucks to spend on tools and I don't have access to a large band-saw, so does a hand-held jigsaw work well for cutting out a deck? I think it'll be ok, but I need some opinions.
Ride on, fellas...
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