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| Truck Reviews (15215 Posts)
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re: tai
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On 5/20/2006 dan@csu
wrote in from
United States
(66.238.nnn.nnn)
tai in my opinion, holeys, r2s, and seismics are your only options if you want a little stability. if you're setting up a straight up carving board though, hybrid trucks like originals are the ticket. i've never been on revenge, but ppl. on the coast site seem to prefer the originals overall. as far as 80mm wheels, thats an issue of board shape (clearance) more than trucks. if you want something different and sweet, check out bustin boards and throw originals on one. i've been looking at a setup like that myself...
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plugging with dowels
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On 5/19/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(152.163.nnn.nnn)
the problem is the little slivers of dowel that are usually left glued to the board shred pretty easy,a grainless epoxy or jb weld kind of material doesn't influence the drills path when you redrill,well it might,hhmmm it all depends on whether your holes a ovaled offcenter, i guess if you glued the plugs with epoxy the slivers of wood around the new slightly smaller hole should be well glued, give it a try you can always try try again.
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Loose screw
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On 5/19/2006 Chief Red Beef
wrote in from
United States
(24.185.nnn.nnn)
Hey...I have an idea..
It's not JB weld (which, by the way is designed to work on metal), it's not epoxy, (which would probably work ok but not great)it's this:
Your deck is wood right? Why don't you plug those holes with...wood!
Take that deck to the hardware store, ask the person behind the counter where the wooden dowels are, find one that fits (tight, or oversize even. You can always sharpen it and bang it in), buy it, buy some wood glue, take it home, smear a little glue into the hole and onto the dowel, hammer it home, repeat as necessary.
Just about all dowels are hardwood (most made of maple, same as your deck).
Let it sit overnight. Shave it smooth with a razor (or sharp chizel if you have).
Re-drill.
Presto. Good as new (probably even a little stronger as the dowel grains run vertical).
Basic see?
Total money spent: About 5 bucks. (unless you already have glue then it's about a buck. Plus you have enough dowel left over for a neat tie rack)
We can all get through this if we just keep our heads.
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Best Carving Trucks
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On 5/19/2006
Tai
wrote in from
United States
(64.142.nnn.nnn)
I'd like to revisit a topic...
The best carving trucks.
I'm setting up a longboard for this summer and I want some super carvey trucks that are stable at high speeds (would be awesome if they didn't wobble, but probably not likely). Although I will sacrifice stability for carving. The problem is is that I want to run 80mm kryptos.
The trucks I was thinking about are Revenge, Original, and Holey. Please let me know if there are others that I should consider.
Also, maybe another thing aiding my decision will be if anyone has a set of any of the above trucks for sale, new or used
I appreciate your input, thanks!
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loose trucks
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On 5/17/2006 derik
wrote in from
Germany
(193.7.nnn.nnn)
I guess a superb solution for your worn out holes will be the X-bolt set from Abec11/Chris Chaput.
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Will I regret My Randals 180mm...
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On 5/15/2006
jean-Sébastien Géléinas
wrote in from
Canada
(69.159.nnn.nnn)
I used to ride for many years with randals 180mm. I gave my stepsister a hole set so she can ride in australia, as she came visiting us during cold season. Now I purchased the Seismics 180mm + 3Dm Avalon wheels. I was thinking about gettin a long straight classical 44" longboard, to do some speed this summer. But I just saw those type of boars with upper nose/tail... and I wonder if my Seismics could work on such deck... will I regret my Randals, was Seismics way ahead of us technology a bad choice... Is anyone know those trucks very well. Will they Wobble as I go on high speed? Will they carve good at high speed or give too much responding. is Santa Clause coming tonight?
thanx everyone
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trucks
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On 5/12/2006
Matty
wrote in from
United States
(72.226.nnn.nnn)
there is a 16 year old kid in austrailia who invented a new truck for skateboards called pick and flick for better carving.
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loose trucks
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On 5/12/2006 Tai
wrote in from
United States
(64.142.nnn.nnn)
Thanks for all your recommendations. I’ll have to take off the trucks and inspect the damage…
First I’ll try either the m5 hardware or the T-nuts
If for some reason that doesn’t work I’ll try JB welding them in… I’ve fiddled around with the setup and now I got it to where I like it, but the holes got sloppy
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Loose screw holes
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On 5/11/2006 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(216.66.nnn.nnn)
Tai, I used to ride Kryptonics Foam-core boards, and they'd get chewed where the bolts fit in. My solution was to use smooth-flanged T-nuts, both from the top and bottom of the deck (two T-nuts because the glass was top+bottom,with foam between) and then just thread my bolts through the T-nuts. If your deck is wood (solid in the middle) then one T-nut up top, but under your griptape, should work fine.
Of course, Herbn's suggestion of using a slightly bigger diameter bolt is good too, if the holes are just a 'bit' sloppy in fit.
Last choice; re-drill just 3/8" from where your truck mount now, but then your balance points for the nose/tail kicks will change.
Good luck..
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how loose
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On 5/10/2006 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
m5 hardware is a little bigger than 10 32 and it usually doesn't need redrilling,.though it sounds like you got bigger holes than this slightly larger hardware would fill. There isn't enough baseplate metal in indys to go m6, i did that with some randal dh's along time ago when i thought heavy duty was cool.
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Indy 8.25"
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On 5/10/2006
Andre
wrote in from
United States
(66.109.nnn.nnn)
I'm looking for a set of Indy's that measure 8.25". They're no longer made but I know there's still a few out there. I'm not too picky about condition as long as they're not ground down to the axle. Buy/trade, whatever, I just need'em. Anybody got a set they'll part with?
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it's not the bullet it's the hole
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On 5/9/2006
sc
wrote in from
United States
(65.91.nnn.nnn)
fill the holes and redrill them
best would be epoxy, even something like JB weld
you could probably use some of that solar-cure surfboard ding repair stuff too
good luck
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loose trucks
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On 5/9/2006
Tai
wrote in from
United States
(64.142.nnn.nnn)
I got a bit of a problem…
The holes on my board where I mount the trucks are loose…
This is my fav longboard of all time and I’m looking for a good solution.
I thought about gluing the screws…
I thought about going with bigger screws and drilling bigger holes in the riser blocks and the trucks (indy stage9)…
Do you have any other ideas/solutions/stuff that works?
Thanks a bunch!
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Thanks for the JB Weld idea!
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On 5/4/2006
Dan Kasmar
wrote in from
United States
(67.40.nnn.nnn)
Thanks Geezer and Paul, I'm going to give that a try. Next, I need to find me an offset.
Paul, don't forget to bring bows this weekend. :-)
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Paul's 2 Cents on JB Weld
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On 5/4/2006 Paul Howard
wrote in from
United States
(64.5.nnn.nnn)
Hey Eric! Are you planning on going to DHB Dixie Cup #2?
Dan K- I don't know why I haven't thought of what Geezer said but that's a perfect way to modify an new Indy kingpin, I use JB Weld for a lot of things and "if" you want it any harder, you can bake the hanger with the new kingpin plus JB Weld at 175-200 degrees F for 1.5 to 2 hours. This will also cure it a LOT LOT faster. Don't go too hot or you'll start possibly getting bubbles in the JB Weld or changing the temper of the aluminum, Mr Wrench might have an opinion on that metallurgical point.- Paul
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Kegs
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On 5/4/2006
Mile High Mark
wrote in from
United States
(207.174.nnn.nnn)
I wrote up a review on this over at Silverfish, so I'll simply paraphrase here... OK rebound (not as good as Stims or Radikal), good shape, and inexpensive and fairly readily available. Probably best for riders over 150 pounds (I'm 205, FWIW). An entire board's worth for less than six bucks, so experimenting isn't that expensive.
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Indy Stage 9 Kingpin Replacement
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On 5/4/2006 Geezer-X
wrote in from
United States
(63.138.nnn.nnn)
I use regular grade 8 3/2-24 bolts, the same as I use for everything, which buy buy the box of 50 from McMaster-Carr.
For the stage 9 Indys, I use JB weld. I put a smear under the head of the bolt, press it in, and put a bead around the top of the head. Let it cure overnight in the head up position. JB weld flows beautifully as it cures, so it will fill all the voids around the hex inside the bore.
The JB weld only has to keep the head from rotating as you tighten the nylock nut, for which it's WAY plenty strong.
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Longer Indy 101 kingpins
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On 5/3/2006 Dan Kasmar
wrote in from
United States
(67.40.nnn.nnn)
I've got some 101s, but I want to put a longer kingpin in. Where can I find longer replacements? They don't have the normal hex bolt, they have a round head, with splines. I've taking one to every local fastener warehouse, and have had no luck.
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lucky keg bushing
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On 5/1/2006 hc
wrote in from
United States
(168.149.nnn.nnn)
http://www.milehighskates.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1109&osCsid=e8
anyone tried it? like stimulator?
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g bomb
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On 4/30/2006 hc
wrote in from
United States
(71.139.nnn.nnn)
adjustable angle...
http://www.hookinupdistribution.com/gbomb.htm
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Holey/Wedge Flex
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On 4/30/2006
Mile High Mark
wrote in from
United States
(206.124.nnn.nnn)
The Holey/Wedge Flex combo will be very nice. I rode that setup for a while, and it was very versatile. With ZigZag wheels, it cornered beautifully.
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re:
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On 4/30/2006 dan@csu
wrote in from
United States
(216.17.nnn.nnn)
trust me holeys are killer for all around cruising and carving. just go buy some and start enjoying the ride!
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first board
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On 4/30/2006
jarrod
wrote in from
United States
(68.6.nnn.nnn)
so i'm thinking about going with the wedgeflex for my first purchase. i'm mostly into just cruising and carving. I'm not really a racer. i've been pointed towards holey trucks. any holey riders have any reviews on them? does anyone have any recommendations for other trucks to go with the wedgeflex for good carving?
cheers,
j.
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Josh's Kinpin Fixin
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On 4/29/2006 Paul Howard
wrote in from
United States
(64.5.nnn.nnn)
Josh, try replacing the vice with a good solid medium to big stump of wood and a heavy mallet or big stick instead of a regular sized hammer, this will eliminate the small higher frequency shock waves from shattering your baseplates. Good Luck- P
Dan Kasmer- Remind me to bring some Bows to the Salem Race on the CSA forum.
Adios-P
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Bennett Re-issues
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On 4/29/2006 Paul Howard
wrote in from
United States
(64.5.nnn.nnn)
Hey Dan, I've been thinking the same thing for T/S, I remember them as being VERY turny, more turney than Indy 101's. I'd likely use one as a front truck only, but maybe front and back. That old-fashioned kingpin/nut arrangement makes me a little nervous though. Otherwise, they would be cool to put on some sort of oak kicktail board. I've tried to look at the website but it did'nt come up. Adios-Paul
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